“Resin is pretty versatile. You can
use it for so many things
beyond clay too. Can’t wait
to find out the outcome of
your tests Cindy!” ~DJ
Back in January, I posted some initial thoughts about a UV curing epoxy resin called UltraDome. As a result of the positive feedback and encouragement you guys provided at that time, I have since continued to test the product with various polymer clay jewelry projects.
I have never used any kind of resin for any kind of craft so I am eager to learn more. Learning this from you Cindy will mean it is something I will be able to accomplish. So please play away and share with us in that magical way you always do. I for one can’t wait to see what you bring to us. Love and Uuuuuuuugggggggs, ~Peggy-B
Well, this is interesting – something totally new to me. Is the purpose to protect the finish of the polymer when using powders, inks foils, etc? ~Rose-M
Sounds likes the stuff they use when I get my nails done… they are called “gel nails” but really when it’s cured under a UV light it’s a very strong clear plastic. The gel-like material it painted onto the nails in coats and then cured under the UV light after each coat… it’s sandable, very shiny, and very durable. I actually wonder if the material would be compatible with polymer clay every time I get my nails done. ~Melinda-H
Neat, looking forward to seeing what you find out. I’ve been wondering lately if resin-coating polymer clay roses would make them more durable. Mine seem to be prone to breakage. ~Katie-C
Great, Cindy! I can’t until you figure this out for us.
~Catalina
With the goal of keeping the equipment costs as low as possible for you guys, my testing has been done with an inexpensive Judikins Soliel UV Lamp that I purchased online from JoAnn’s using a 50% off coupon.
Even though this lamp is compact, the pass through design does allow you to work with larger pieces as well. However, its 9 watt light source (single bulb) is really far too small… because it takes over an hour to properly cure the Ultradome UV resin with it.
There is also a larger 36 watt lamp unit available (4 x 9 watt bulbs). Although more expensive, it is a much better option since it reduces the curing time down to a reasonable 20 minutes.
Terry Morris, the owner of the UltraDome UV Resin Company, recently sent me an email about the new UV oven that he is just now starting to market to crafters and jewelry makers…
Our UltraDome lights are the lowest cost for what they are… industrial lights meant to be used every day in a production environment. And they will last a lifetime. Our nearest competitor starts at $2,000 and up. Our new light sells for $69 and comes with 4 – 9 watt bulbs. It will cure the epoxy in the 20 minute time. ~Terry-M
Anyway, other than having a slow lamp right now, I have to say that I LOVE Terry’s UltraDome resin product!
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Just look how pretty it makes that simple Johnny Jump-Up Pansy Cane slice look in this pendant. From working with this stuff, I found UltraDome UV Resin to be:
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Really I can’t say enough good things about it! And no… Terry did not pay me to say that. But he was kind enough to send me a sample bottle of his Ultradome resin for testing purposes.
He also gave me a squeeze applicator bottle and a UV protected storage container. I love the applicator. It makes it super easy to put on the resin. Way nicer than trying to drizzle on with a pop sickle stick!
There are actually several jewelry resin products on the market today. Some of them require a UV Light for curing (no mixing required), which is how the UltraDome product works.
Others use a two-part epoxy mixing process for initiating the hardening process. Unfortunately I have not yet had the opportunity to test any of the other brands yet.
But… I am ready to teach you what I have learned so far… about applying beautifully smooth and glossy layers of uv cured resin over polymer clay, using the UltraDome product.
So… as long as the general consensus is still positive (please let me know in the comment section below), the UV Resin tutorial will be included in the May, Vol-024 video line up at the members library next month.
Can’t wait to hear your thoughts about this new Ultradome UV Resin product. I really would like something that doesn’t pull away from the sides. Hope this new stuff is easier to use. I ordered some today. ~Bonnie-K
I’m going to wait for Cindy’s tests to be done, though. I know when her video comes out, it will show me how to use resin in the simplest way (you know how she “makes the mistakes, so we don’t have to…”). ~Phaedrakat
Looking forward to hearing about this UltraDome Product, Cindy. I played with resin last year, but I was not happy with it. I even tried to make a well to hold it from going down the sides, but it only puddled along the sides of the well. If this UltraDome works well, that would be awesome. ~Lupe-M
I tried another resin brand and was disappointed with my results. I also found the resin likes to collect in the center and it’s hard to get a smooth coating without bubbles and unfilled valleys. I need to save my money and get a UV lamp. ~Maria-C
I sure hope this product works well. No mixing is so appealing. I’d love to see different ways to combine it with clay. Resin is pretty versatile You can use it for so many things beyond clay too. Can’t wait to find out the outcome of your tests Cindy! ~DJ
Updated Schedule for the 4-part, May-2010, Volume-024 series:
(1) Cane Making: Leopard Print Cane [confirmed]
(2) Bead Shapes: Ivy Leaf Charm [confirmed]
(3) Clay Techniques: UV Resin Technique [proposed]
(4) Special Projects: [to be determined]
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| ** Did You Know… Members with current subscriptions to the weekly tutorial videos are always entitled to a 10% discount when purchasing 6 or more back issue packages in a single transaction. If you are interested, let me know which back issues you would like and I will send further instructions on how to complete your order. |
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Definitely a “Yes” from me!
(I’ve used multiple layers of Kato Clear Medium very successfully for various resin-type effects in the past, but I’ve never got around to trying resin directly.)
“Yes” from me, too. I’ve been patiently waiting…
So far all I’ve used is Lisa Pavelka’s. I’m looking forward to seeing how you do with the UltraDome. Maybe it’s a good thing I never sent back Lisa’s larger lamp.
@carolyn: Hi, Lisa Pavelka’s site has a 36 watt UV light on sale for $52.50 reg $75.00 is this a good price or are they always that price. She has a 9 watt for $36.00 no sale price. From what I can tell the 36 watt seems to be a good buy or is the 9 watt all I need for this kind of project. Please if you don’t mind would you give me your advice.
Thanks and Uuuuuuggs, Peggy
I am super excited about this, both the product and the tut. I love the effect of resin covered pieces but had experienced so much frustration from the products I tried on my own that I gave up.
forgot to ask–who carries it or does it have to be ordered? Best online source? Thanks.
Yes! Actually I was just thinking about trying resin yesterday. I’ve been a little wary of it since I’ve heard about the smell with two-part (asthma… allergy season has me messed up as it is, I don’t need any more help). Looking forward to watching.
Me too I say YES. Where can you get the Ultradome UV resin for a good price. Maybe you can show us how to do the beautiful copper bezel your pansy pendant sets in for part 4 of Vol 024 special projects. That would be a stunning way to end Vol. 024. YES YES. I mean YES PLEASE.
Uuuuuugggs to all and Thank you Cindy for being you.
Peggy
Can this be cured in sunlight also?? I have 4 huge South facing windows, would that work?????
I love the look of resin but I’ve had poor luck with it. Used enviro tex lite and Lisa’s. I’ve gotten good looking pieces, but have also ruined some that were pretty before the resin. I hope this new one can be cured with the sun.
Answered one of my own questions now I have another. 1st You can go to Ultadome.com for purchasing. Don’t know if it is less expensive somewhere else. 1 oz bottle is $6 and 2 oz $12. Here is my other question. Is 1 oz. enough for just one project?? I still need to know about sunlight. Don’t know if I want to pay for light before I try to see if I like using the product. No matter the answers still want to see tute.
Thanks and Uuuuggs Cindy.
Thanks guys for the great feedback so quickly this morning. Thought you would like it!
As far as curing in the sun, Terry (the owner of Ultradome) just left a comment about that in the other thread. I’ve linked to it by my name.
@Peggy Barnes: 1 oz will do quite a few projects. Though if you were going to do any production with it you would need to get a bigger bottle.
@Ken H: About coloring the resin to produce a true clear embeddable amber, I’ll let Terry address this. I’m sure he will pop into this thread soon.
OOOOOOO! YES,YES,YES new techniques and TOOLS (hehehehe).
Rats forgot to add my question: Could this product be colored to produce a true clear imbedable amber (thinking of the comment on hunting for bugs) :D
Thanks, Peggy,
I just ordered from the site-ordered the 2 oz bottle.
Too bad they don’t carry this in our local hardware store … that would really get them going!
Oh, and I’m with Peggy about the bezel. It really sets it off nicely.
Really looking forward to this tut. I have tried the Envirotex Light and was not happy with the results.
Hello,
I am the owner of UltraDome product family. Just found this thread and thought I would answer a few questions.
How many projects can you do, well 1 oz. of our resin will dome approximately 20-30 square inches depending on how high the dome is. To calculate the square inches it’s width X length = square inches
Will it cure in sun. Yes it will cure in direct sunlight in about an hour, however windows block 80% to 90% of UV light so it would take a very long time to cure behind a window. outside in direct sunlight you may end up with dust and debris that floats by sticking to the epoxy.
UltraDome.com & EpoxyJewelry.com is currently the only place you can purchase our products, we ship to most countries. At EpoxyJewelry.com the product is labeled as Jewelry Glaze but it’s the same product.
While I am not a jewelry artist like Cindy I do have some simple use videos on both sites that should give you a good idea on application and use of the products.
Can the resin be tinted. Not really, you see any tint you might add would prevent UV light from traveling all the way through the epoxy. Now that being said, there is a possibility that a very light translucent tint may work as long as it does not block to much UV light. A light amber may be possible I am just not 100% sure.
I hope this answers the questions so far. I will check back to field questions as they pop up.
Thanks!
I only wish it was sooner!
Oh well so much for the sun coming through my windows doing the work. Now I want to know if a 36 watt nail enamel setting light will work. It really is a box with four 9 watt bulbs but they are calling it 36 watt light. My daughter was telling me about them. Will this work or do you need a specific UV light??? If anyone knows what I just said can you tell me where I can find a light at a good price. I also bought 2 oz bottle at UltraDome.com now I just need to find a light I can afford. I have high hopes of falling in love with another one of Cindy’s tutes.
Uuuuuuugggs to all, Peggy
Oh Thanks for the answers to my first questions Cindy.
@Peggy Barnes: Yes – the nail light and the UV light are the same thing. I think when they are used for nails there is a fan in them, but otherwise they are the same.
My vote is yes.
This sound like what I have been looking for! Can’t wait for a tut on this! I wonder if you want to cure it outdoors if you use a crystal, glass or plastic lid over your piece? Would that would prevent the proper curing of your piece? Or could you place it in a box with plastic wrap to prevent dirt and dust settling on them?
@Catalina: Plastic wrap sounds smart! I can’t imagine that it would block many UV rays! But it would keep the bugs & dust out of our creations! Great idea!
I forgot to add Michaels has premo and fimo on sale for 99 cents a bar and Hobby Lobby matches their sales if it is the exact same name brand. I will let you in on a little secret. I need a good buy on my UV light because I just purchased a lot of premo at Hobby Lobby and they had several bars of Studio by Sculpey blocks for $1.59 each. One good thing I won’t need any clay for awhile and only 3 bars of premo gold was the new kind. So I still have a good suppy of old premo. It’s been a good day for me. I am also going to go work on some clay for awhile. I’t has definately been a great day.
Many Many Uuuuuggs to all, Peggy
@Peggy Barnes: Hi Peggy, you “mad shopper” you! I just realized what you were meant about needing to get a good buy on the UV light because you bought so much clay on sale! (Takes me a while sometimes…) I’m happy that it was a good day for you, and I hope today was too (with wishes for an even better day tomorrow!) Isn’t it great having some of the old stuff (Premo) that you don’t have to leach! And if it’s really old (and dry, like some of mine is,) you can mix it with new stuff (of the same color.) That’s what I did with a few bars of mine, anyway. It worked great, but I stopped. I want a food processor to do some of the work! I’m hoping to find a used one this weekend at a yard/garage sale. Please, let the gods be merciful, and have people tossing away perfectly good appliances for nearly freeeeeee! Sorry, got carried away. ;~D
Anyway, I hope that you find that great deal you’re looking for on your UV Light. And I really, really hope you’re clayin’, and feeling great!
@Phaedrakat: Yes I was a mad shopper. I have not felt well enough to go shopping like that since before Christmas. And did my bank account ever make up for lost time. I purchased over a total of 80 bars of clay and the only other thing I bought was the irredecent easter grass at less than 20 cents a bag. I love bargains. I did overdo it and the aches and pains are reminding me I shouldn’t of done that much. But it was more than worth it. You know as I do it is such a kick in the hind end to not feel like doing anything worse yet not being able to do anything. We will both along with hopefully all the others that suffer in this group someday get better and clay everyday of the week. Oh how wonderful that sounds. CLAY EVERYDAY OF THE WEEK!!!!!!!!!!! Wouldn’t that be so much fun.
Wishing everyone better health in the future.
Uuuuuuuuuuuuugggggs, Peggy
@Peggy Barnes: Oh, boy have I done that! Many times I’ve gone shopping (after feeling bad for so long,) and just went wild, only to overdo it both on the spending & the length of time in the shops. And you definitely pay for it with extra pain after that. (And yes, the bank acct. too.) But you’re so right, it’s rough being stuck at home, when you really just want to be out & about like the “good old days,” before the pain. I’ve got the added problem of car trouble right now, so even if I feel okay to go out, I have to find a ride. It’s maddening! I’ve been praying, hoping that a solution will present itself. In the meantime, I’ve been trying to improve my craft area & work space, so that when I feel good enough to clay, I’ve got plenty of room.
I’m so grateful for this community, it helps me stay connected to clay, even when I’m unable to do it. As for your dream of “claying every day of the week,” Wow! I can only imagine how good that would feel! But I can dream… :-) I wish you (& all the other “artists in pain”) the best health, fun, and lots of pain-free days to come!
@Phaedrakat: Sorry to hear about your transportation problems. Hopefully things will turn around for you very soon. I want to thank you for all your kind words and encouragement. I am like you this community Cindy and Doug’s kind hearts have brought us is the next best thing to working with clay. All the love and inspiration keep me going on good and bad days. It is also all the kind hearted people like you. It is so sad when someone blogs a comment that belittles others. That is what I love most about this blog when you need support or just a pat on the back you don’t even have to ask for it because it will always show up from many of supporting clayers. This community is what kindness is all about.
Many Uuuuuuuugggs to all of you, Peggy
Thanks Carolyn
Peggy: Yes the 36 watt unit should work just fine.
Catalina: Most glass or plastic will block the UV light. I never thought about using plastic wrap though, I would bet it would work as it is so thin it might let most of the UV light through.
I will have to test this on a sunny day.
Has anyone tried ICE Resin? I’m especially interested in it’s compatability with t-shirt transfer paper image transfers.
Ah Cindy – you are amazing. I had been wanting to learn to make faux opals out of pc and I found you just before you did the opal tut. For years I have been wanting to learn how to use resin in jewelry and here you are, coming to my rescue again!! Please count me in as a YES also. I can’t wait! Thank you from the bottom of my heart.
I vote Yes…now to buy a UV lamp!
Absolutely, I’m in for sure!! Glad to hear the Ultradome tests were positive.
In Cindy’s article at the top, she mentions she tried a 9 watt, single bulb light. It worked, but took an hour to cure. She quotes Terry from Ultradome, who says he sells the 4 x 9W light for $69. I didn’t see that on the website. Is this some kind of special deal or something? Or is it better to get the one Peggy found on sale at Lisa P’s site for $52.xx? If Terry’s has the same oven for $69, it might still be better to buy from him, depending on how the shipping is tallied. If you order from 2 sites & pay shipping, it can cost a lot more than getting it all in one place.
My shorter question: is there really a 36 watt (4 – 9W bulb) oven from Terry at Ultradome for $69? The prices on the website were quite different. If so, do I need to call to order it, or will it be on the website soon?
Phaedrakat: I have 2 web sites, one is the UltraDome.com that caters to production shops, the lights on that site are designed to dome hundreds of items a day every day.
I also have EpoxyJewelry.com, it is more for crafters and small jewelry makers. The $69 light is on this site, it is a new product. This site also has the epoxy in a 2 oz. bottle with a twist open dispensing tip. It’s re-labeled as jewelry glaze on this site but is the same product.
Cindy,
Yes! I had just ordered some Ultra Glos for my first resin attempt, so will wait for the video before trying it. You must have read my mind!
Joansie
Sorry for the long rant on resins, lol…but please hear me out.
I hear so many complaints about Magic Glos, but really, if you follow a simple trick that I’ve come up with, you use a normal or smaller amount of Resin and there will be no pulling away from the sides! Apply Magic Glos around the edges first (do not fill center), then cure. Then apply Magic Glos around edges and fill center and cure again. Works great!
About Ultradome, I find the sample I received does not dome, in fact it spills over the edges of a flat piece when trying to ‘dome’ and I could only apply enough resin to make it look like I applied varnish, i.e. flat…no doming. I will try a second coat to see if it grips on the previous layer. The viscosity is lower than Magic glos, i.e. Ultradome seems to be runnier.
About the first resin Deco UV Cure resin I’ve written about on my blog…I am going to order a larger quantity as I use quite a bit. The industrial plastics shop I dealt with said they’d have to order a 5 gallon pail, lol. Luckily I’m able to get a smaller quantity. I could possible ship within Canada, but not internationally as shipping resins across borders would have to be done through Fedex or UPS and the shipping cost would outweigh any of the savings.
The cost of Deco is about 1/3rd of Magic Glos and it has the same properties as Ultradome except the viscosity of the Deco is slightly thicker and more comparable to Magic Glos. If I had to compare the two by dipping in a skewer into a pail full and pulling it out…Ultradome runs of the skewer like Olive Oil and the Deco more like Corn syrup. Magic Glos and Deco are about the same viscosity. Personally I prefer the slightly thicker resins, although for flat pendants, the Ultradome would work just fine and I think for bezelled items it would give a smoother appearance on the edges (will try that) BTW…all of those UV resin have a light blue tinge to them…must be the UV base. All in all, so far I have no huge preference over one or the other resin. If cost is a factor for you, you should take into consideration any shipping of course, but also what quantity you purchase. Magic Glos is now available in 6 oz. bottles too.
On quantity…do not purchase more than you will use as the UV Resins have about a 6 month shelf-life under proper storage conditions. I am told that the opaque white containers, you may want to wrap black electrician tape around them if not stored in the dark :), especially if you only use resin once in a while.
About curing outside with a glass placed over top of the items…Think of it this way…how come a lot of paintings/photographs will fade if you have them near a window where sunlight goes through…because the UV affects the paint or photograph. If you have a window pane box…this would work, but if you use thick glass like pyrex, it may not because of the curvature of the glass deflecting sunlight.
I’ve never done any resin/UV work and would love to see it demonstrated. I wonder how this technique would work with the faux opals vs. the Bake & Bond coating.
@Joan Wallace: Did you mean UltraDome or Magic Glos or was that just a mistake? Because you mentioned Ultra Glos which I know as a glass paint and isn’t a resin at all.
@Tina: Thanks for your lengthy reply Tina! It is always good to hear about what others are doing with the products. I actually find the thinner viscosity easy to work with and I still find it domes quite nicely. The way I apply it, it doesn’t need that initial curing either and can be done all in one shot without spilling over the sides. Terry says it has something to do with the surface tension of the product that makes it dome like that. Maybe you didn’t use enough of it or too much? Thanks for letting everyone know about the shelf life considerations when ordering, though Terry said that the UltraDome has a shelf life of 1 year if it is stored properly in a dark place. They even put a use before date on the bottle so you know how old it is. Great tip on wrapping the bottle in tape as an extra precaution. Bet that works really well!
@Charline: I tried using the resin on the faux opals instead of the Bake and Bond but the resin was too thin for the cabochon shape and ran off. Would probably work if the opal was made in a flat piece, but just haven’t tried that yet. It would be nice to avoid the sanding, wouldn’t it?! :-)
As Cindy mentioned it’s surface tension that determines how high of a dome can be made not viscosity (thickness). As an example take a penny and an eye dropper, place the penny on a flat surface a drop water on it (water is very thin but has a high surface tension). Keep dropping water on it a few drops at a time and pretty soon you will see a very high dome that is way above the edge of the penny.
For surface tension to work properly it needs a nice sharp edge, if the edge of your item is rounded off it will spill over easily and in that case a thicker resin would provide a bit more coverage. If the edge is at a nice 90 degree angle (sharp) then it will dome tall.
Great Advice Terry and something I should have taken into consideration. I use cutters and this does round the edges of the pieces. I’ll sand flat and try again.
Good to know about the 1 year shelf life.
@ Charline and Cindy. The Faux opal, is that the ‘Faux Dichro Liquid Glass”? If so, this product is waterbase and doesn’t stand up to humidity or wear too well. Also find that although it domes quite well, it forms dimples in the center.
Does anyone know about the Magic Glos shelf life?
@Tina: No Tina, the Faux Opal that we were referring to is my new technique that I taught a few weeks ago. If you click the link by my name you will see what we were talking about. There’s a short preview video there too if you wan to take a look.
Thanks for the tip on the ‘Faux Dichro Liquid Glass”! Hadn’t heard of it but it’s good to know to steer clear.
As far as the shelf-life of Magic Glos, maybe someone else can answer that, because I do not know.
Thanks for testing the UV Resin, Cindy, it looks like another goody for us. Perfect for Part III of what will be a bumper May line up of video lessons! And I loved the metal bezel tute, esp. your “lo-tech”, hammer-and-nail resolution of the piercing part. Your consideration of our budgets whenever that’s possible is very much appreciated.
This definitely looks interesting… I’ve been thinking about resin for a while since I got Tina’s Batik and Shimmer tutorial (I’ve already said this a million time,s but I love that tute so much!)
I have my first craft fair on Saturday – maybe if it goes well then I’ll treat myself to some resin and a lamp.
@Silverleaf: Good luck at the fair — hope you sell lots of jewelry!
I suppose I’ll be a nearly lone voice of dissent here. I’ve worked with resins before, there really isn’t much to them. The first time I tried them with a project it went smoothly and among people I’ve spoken with that seems to be the consensus. I feel it would be a difficult thing to screw up if you have even the most marginal of skills with Google in case of troubleshooting needs. I do not believe that a video on the process would clear anything up for me or add to my polymer clay knowledge in any way.
Hi Ashlyn,
Thanks for speaking your mind. As I’ve said publicly on numerous occasions, I’m perfectly fine with having “voice of dissent” opinions posted here at the blog… as long as the conversation remains constructive and respectful.
I’m glad to hear you have mastered the art of using resin with your polymer clay. Perhaps you can share some tips that would be helpful for others who are still having problems with this technique.
Also, there are a fair number of brands available in the marketplace today. Have you had the opportunity to compare any of them? What would be your recommendation and why?
@Cindy Lietz from Making Polymer Clay Jewelry: Those were my exact questions for Ashlyn. Thanks for asking.
Yes, Please Cindy! I have been wanting to try resin for a long time, but have been discouraged by all I have read.
Hey Cindy, Carolyn
I’ve used a few different kinds, I’m terrible with names however. I believe one of them was called diamond glaze, and I was fairly happy with it but on the advice of Noadi, a polyclay artist I quite admire, I tried out Ice Resin, which is much clearer but also more expensive. Sometimes I actually like the sort of opalescent thing you can get going with diamond glaze, so I guess it really depends on what you want it for.
As for tips, I’d say the best advice would be to get a package of those syringe deals to apply it. Works great and you get a lot of control.
I’ve also used Glossy Accents which isn’t really a resin as such but works really well considering. It’s easier to use and happens to be the only thing available in my local craft store, plus it comes with a pointy applicator tip so no need for syringes.
@Ashlyn: I’ve tried Judikin’s Diamond Glaze, but the manufacturer calls it a “dimensional adhesive”, not a resin. It does create a nice, glossy finish, though. But I haven’t tried it on clay (I’d heard negative things.) Judikin’s also has something called Amazing Glaze, which Amazon calls “enameling resin” in the title. But the Judikin’s website calls it a “dimensional embossing powder,” again, not a resin, per se.
These products are not what I usually think of as “resin,” but maybe I have the wrong idea about what the term is used for. (I guess I think of casting resin as “resin”, where it has to cure for days, or be cured by UV or something. I never thought of the glazes as resins, but I could be wrong. With all the conflicting opinions about these things, it’s hard to know for sure…
I have heard good things about ICE Resin. Since it’s Susan Lenart Kazmer’s “baby,” I was intrigued by it. I really like the idea of this Ultradome resin though, too. Not having to mix it, and the fast cure time, and the low price make it seem like the best choice.
I have read a gazillion articles about resin (glazes aren’t usually included,) with comments from people who’ve had problems with this one or that one. I’ve read blog posts and “Help me!” questions all over the web, asking for how-to’s and tips about resin. The magazines & blogs are full of product comparisons, as well. All this leads me to believe that Resin is a perfect subject for a video tutorial! IMHO, of course. :-)
@Phaedrakat:
I am also playing around with Diamond Glaze. What have you hard about it with regards to clay?
@Ashlyn: Ashlyn or anyone else with advice on this please help. I have large syringes with18 gauge needles (fairly big needle) We used these to draw blood on our horses when needed. Is this what you are referring to. I was going to ask if anyone thought this would work ok for me to apply the UltraDome resin with. If not this will I need to purchase one of the bottles with special tip on it they sell at UltraDome.com??
Thanks for the help Uuuuuuugggs, Peggy
@Ashlyn: You mentioned working with Glossy Accents & Diamond Glaze (or Amazing Glaze?,) was that on polymer clay? I thought there were compatibility issues using these products with PC. Have you had success using these long-term (long lasting/no compatibility issues?)
@Lorrie: Hi Lorrie, I’ve only used Diamond Glaze on paper (didn’t know it was clay compatible when I bought it, actually.) People do use it, though; but it’s nowhere near what you get with resin. It’s not as hard, clear, or durable. Ashlyn mentions Diamond Glaze above, saying she likes the opalescent look it gives for certain projects. Mary G. uses Diamond Glaze, too—she used it on some bracelets & Cindy did a spotlight article on them. The article’s called, Mary Needs Your Help, because she had some trouble with the finish coming off. The consensus in the comments section was that the Pearl-Ex method she used caused the problem, not the Diamond Glaze. Hopefully Mary will put a word in here about it, the more info the better. Still, Bonnie K. mentions in that same post that she had trouble with Diamond Glaze, so maybe it’s not the best way to go.
If you’ve already got some Diamond Glaze, do some tests and see how you like it. And please let us know what you think, so we can properly advise the next person to ask about it. If I have any DG left, I’ll try to do some tests of my own (that’s if the glaze isn’t too old—it’s been awhile.)
Good luck to you! Now I think I’ve got some other questions from you on another post… ;D Have fun, Kat
Ashlyn, thank for filling us in on what you’ve tried. Personally I don’t like working with that stuff you have to mix. It makes me nervous.
Peggy, I’d definitely recommend some type of long pointy tip, but I do think your horse syringes will be too big.
One question I have, and Cindy may answer, is how do you do cleanup with these resin glazes? Will alcohol work, or will we need mineral spirits, or what?
Wow a lot of great stuff happening here! I knew it would be a popular subject!
@carolyn: As far as clean up goes, you can use rubbing alcohol when it is wet and a razor/scraper when cured.
Hey Peggy
Those syringes have an inside diameter of about 0.8 mm, while the craft syringes I use have an inside diameter of about 1.1mm. Depending on the viscosity of the resin, it might work based on that. The problem I think you would run into is that the syringe tip would be so far away from the plunger that it would be difficult to use in a craft application. The craft ones have the tip right after the barrel, while I’m assuming the needle part of an equine syringe would be several inches long.
I don’t think you’d need to buy a special bottle if you didn’t want to, you could get a package of syringes from a craft store, or from places like ebay that came up when I googled if you want to use them for more than one thing. You wouldn’t have to load them if you got the bottle with the tip though!
Peggy, 18 gauge is a little small for our epoxy, we recommend a 15 gauge for delicate work and 14 gauge for general use. In “gauge” the smaller the number the bigger the needle.
How does Utee Embossing Enamel fit in here? Does it do the same thing as resin?
@Cindy R: UTEE can be used as a protective coating for pendants & other items. Resin is used for these things, too, but the coating is quite transparent, more glass-like. UTEE can be molded, as can (some) resin. So they can “do the same things” — but they’re very different products. They do not use the same kind of processes, nor do they have the same chemical makeup. Besides having better clarity, resin is also much harder & stronger. Leave another comment if you have any other questions, or need more info. :~)
@Peggy Barnes: Thanks, Peggy, what lovely things you said! I agree 100% about Cindy & Doug, and this wonderful community! I hope you are having a great day, and that the pain is far, far away…
missed this post first time round (perhaps whilst I was on holiday) – yes please to resin been thinking of trying it so would be good to have a tutorial to start with.
This is too spendy for me – I vote no…
~Lisa :)
This is too spendy for me, too, and I don’t like the lanyard, either!!!!I I still can’t afford the Makins Extruder that I’m dying to get. I’m on Compensation and will never work again, so I don’t need Lanyards. Peggy and Phaedrakat, hope you both feel better. I know just how you both feel!!! Bad week for me. This is the week that my best, kindest happiest, sweetest, brother dyed last year. Still can’t stop the crying.Oh well, I’de better stop all this and think of clay and this site and Cindy and all the great people here. Sorry for so much complaining!!!!!! Let’s all just be Happy Clayers!!! Love, Honey
@ Honey – I’m so sorry to hear that. You will be in my thoughts. Last week I lost my best friend who was a brother to me. I had lost my brother years ago in a train accident at 16years old. This friend of mine just took over and helped me and my sisters and my mom. he was a wonderful, caring loyal friend and a brother to us. He died suddenly and its so far away in India, I couldn’t even be there. Today is his birthday.
@Honey Sperring: @Cheryl Hodges: I’m really sorry to hear about your losses. It must be so hard losing someone you’re so close to – I wish I had words that would help, but all I can say is that you’re both in my thoughts.
So I noticed this still hasn’t been confirmed…usually I keep quiet and get excited for any tips I glean from your tuts (even if I’m not interested in the specific item itself). I’m really excited to see this tutorial. I even ordered a little Ultra Dome the other day.
@Ella: Yeah, I noticed that too. I hope enough people say “yes”, since I’ve been waiting for Cindy to do resin for a long time! It looks so good on polymer clay — I think of it as a must! You can sand & buff beads to a gorgeous shine, and you can use a glossy finish on other beads. But resin gives such a clear, yet easy finish. Seems like it would be perfect for so many things, and such a wonderful tool to have at one’s disposal (at least I can certainly see potential.) If you haven’t said “yes” yet, please do!
@Honey & Cheryl: I am sorry to hear about the loss of your brother & friend. That’s so, so hard, and I know words aren’t much help. But know that we are thinking of you, and mourning with you, since you’re part of this family, this community Cindy’s built. I’ll keep you in my thoughts and prayers. Thanks Honey, I know you know what I’m going through. Unfortunately, we’ve got a lot of people in pain here. It’s nice to know that others know what you’re going through, but it’s a shame so many people are troubled by such bad pain! Bless you both, ladies!
Too many people are so excited for the Resin tute and have already purchased all the stuff needed, so I’m changing my vote to YES. Thank you so much Cheryl, Silverleaf and Phaedrakat for the kind words. That’s what I love about this community, everyone is just so great. I love this place!!!! I don’t like letting people down and everyone is so excited. I’ll be happy just reading and seeing what people make and I’ll catch all their excitement. GO CLAYERS, GO!!!!!!! GO CINDY, GO. DO YOUR MAGIC!!!!!! Luv You Guys,,,,,,,Honey
Cheryl and Honey, I apologize for not reading this sooner. You are both in my prayers and thoughts. I have been blessed and not loss anyone close to me. My father passed away 6 years ago but we did not know each other that well. I can only imagine what you are going through. I am glad you have your clay and this blog to turn to. Something we all have in common. God Bless you both.
Hi all- I posted a report on my hands-on experiences with Magic Glos, Gel du Soleil and Ultradome on my blog. It’s linking to this thread which I think is a treasure trove of info!
Cheers!
gera
Cheryl and Honey, I too apologize for not coming in here sooner and supporting you through your loss. My heart goes out to you both.
Thank you to everyone who has shown interest in the UV Resin Tutorial. It is going to be a fun one!
@Gera Scott Chandler: Thanks for doing such an excellent review of the different resins and for giving a link back here. I really appreciate that. I love your tip for not using a heat gun or embossing gun to pop the bubbles on the UltraDome. I use a BBQ Lighter myself which works really well, so I didn’t know that the heat gun would cause the resin to ‘pop’ and run over the sides! Boy, now you’re making the mistakes so I don’t have to! :-) UV Resin sure makes polymer clay gorgeous eh? I am so excited about the possibilities, I can hardly stand it! Just coated a thin slice of a butterfly wing cane with the UltraDome and it looks like a shimmering wing trapped in glass. I just love it!
@Cindy L.: Oooh, your butterfly wing sounds so pretty! Can’t wait for the tute! Should we be stocking up on the resin now, since the tute has now been “voted in?” And what about the UV light — do we need the 36-watt unit, or is the 9W okay? You mentioned that the 9W you tried cured too slowly. Will it work if you’re the patient type, who wants to save $$?
@Phaedrakat: To be honest Phaedrakat, I regret not getting a better lamp from the beginning. Mine will work, but it is small, takes too long and I really want a better one already. It is kind of like buying a crappy pair of jewelry pliers and then turning around and buying a better pair shortly after. Didn’t really save money in the end. I think that this resin is such an enhancement to polymer clay that it is worth it. But of course it is up to you. It is possible to make a small 9 Watt lamp work.
@Cindy Lietz from Beaded Lanyards: Same with extruders – I got a cheapo plunger type originally thinking that the Makins one was too expensive, and hardly every used it because it hurt my hands so much. So of course I ended up getting a Makins as well, so it cost me more than if I’d just gone for the good one to start with!
That said, my inexpensive jewellery pliers are doing fine. Will probably get better ones at some point though, because it’s always better to buy the best tools you can afford.
@Cindy L: Absolutely agree! Thanks for letting me know. I’d rather get the good one, if it makes that much difference. I’m gonna try to shop around for the best price on a 36-watter.
@Silverleaf: I did the same thing with the extruders!
If anyone finds a great deal on the UV lamps, please post it here! Right now the Ultradome (EpoxyJewelry.com) site has their 36 watt light for $69. Lisa P.’s site still shows the $52.50 price on her 36W lamp — has anyone purchased this? (I’m curious why the cure time for Magic Glos is the same for Lisa’s 9W & her 36W lights. It seems like it would take longer to cure using the smaller wattage light.) Are there any other/better deals out there? Of course, I’m trying to get the best deal I can, just like everyone else!
Just found a 36W lamp on eBay for £21, which seems like a bargain. Now if I can find a decent UK supplier of UV resin, I might even think about buying it.
Sigh. How come all the good stuff’s easier to get in the US/Canada?? And cheaper too, since it doesn’t have to be shipped halfway around the world.
One thing to be sure of before you buy a lamp. Ask if it can be turned on without being timed. The reason is that some of the ones sold for doing fingernails have a 2 minute timer. And you need it to be on for 20 minutes. Some have the option of solid on or timer, just be sure to find out before you buy.
@Terry Morris: I found a bulb that is a grow bulb for plants. My husband thought it emits uv rays and would work as a way to cure the uv resin. Would it work? It is a 50w bulb. If so, how long do you think I should expose the resin to cure it?
I had trouble with curing the resin outside. I left it outside for 6 hours. It was sunny at first then it got a little cloudy. I kept checking it and made a test piece along side my actual piece so I could test it for hardness. I had to keep adding more time and it really didn’t cure completely. You could see bubbles trapped under a the harden top layer when you pressed on it.
Was it the lack of pure sunlight (I thought even clouds let uv rays through) or high humidity? It was very hot like 95 and above that day.
@Catalina: It’s funny, Ken just asked the same question a few days ago in the original UltraDome thread. Here was my reply:
Sorry but a grow light will not work.
Even though it is UV light, all UV light is not the same. It is the wavelength that is important and our epoxy requires 365nm or close to that. Grow lights are more in the 680nm to 700nm range and will not start the reaction in the epoxy.
Honey & Cheryl, I’m so sorry for your losses. You and your families are in my prayers.
Thankyou everyone for your support and your love. This community is so wonderful I’ve really come to rely upon all of you. I know you re all there with your warmth and support. I had lost my Aunt just a year ago in India – a medical mistake, so losing my close friend who was so much more a brother was really hard to take. Thanks once again. i love you all.
Oh my gosh – I can hardly wait for the video on UV Cure Jewelry Resin!! This is so much fun. I love working with clay and Cindy you are the best teacher ever!!
I can’t wait for this one… Do you have to use a uv light for this? or can it dry on its own?
@Brenda: No it won’t dry on it’s own Brenda. You will need either an UV Lamp or good strong direct sunlight. You will see in the tutorial.
@Cindy Lietz from UV Epoxy Resin Tutorial: Sunlight I have! Just have to figure out a way to keep the dust particles off.
@Brenda: In a previous comment above (click link by my name), Catalina talks about using a thin saran wrap cover to keep dust from settling on your pieces.
Anyone know why my UV cured Magic Glos is still a little sticky?
@Lorrie: Are you sure it’s completely cured? Your UV lights could be going out, or maybe you added something in your resin that blocked the UV light? How did you cure the Glos, lamp or outside?
All you Magic Glos pros, any other ideas?
I need help ! I used Ultradome for the first time. IT DID NOT dome. Can I add another layer ? Also, I only cured in the sun for 20 min .Terry adv 1 hr. And advise would help…..thanks
BTW: Magic-Gloss cured in 15 min and domed.
I do think BOTH resins have their place.
@pattw: You can add additional layers. With the UltraDome, apply starting on the outside. If I’m not mistaken Lisa’s gets applied from the inside out. As far as not doming, you might not have used enough UltraDome. Was you piece perfectly flat, or did it dip in the middle? I have found when the UltraDome has to fill in low areas that sometimes it does not end up doming on the first application.
@carolyn: Opps ! I should have included you in the remarks -sorry. Sure didn’t mean to leave you out….hugs
@pattw: Not a problem! And I guess it is good that we like different products, otherwise some would go out of business.
@pattw: Yes, you can do multiple layers. Sometimes it is necessary, at least for me, because I want a thicker layer. Tension is what helps the uv resin to “dome”. And if you move it too fast or bump it while placing under the uv light it could spill. So, multiple layers might be better. The light I got is a 36w and it works in 20 minutes. But, I need to get a timer because I left a piece in it for an hour and a half! Over exposure won’t hurt but you just waste electricity.
@Catalina: I did put another layer -guess not enough -it still didn’t dome. The piece is flat with straight sides. I sanded it on the sides after the 2nd coat. I will try again. The bubbles I pulled out with a glass dropper -worked just great. I will probably order some more Magic-glos – I really liked that better. But, as I said, they both have their uses. Thanks to all for the info………….
I could also use help on resins. I just used ultradome on a type of paper, cured it in Lisa Pavelka’s light for a LONG time. It is days later and still sticky. Could it be the high heat and humidity in Florida? Magic Glos was also sticky but eventually hardened after I brought it into the air conditioning for a day or two. It did dome a small amount and looks great if I can just get it to harden.
@Lorrie: What type of paper? Was the paper on clay? Was there any moisture besides the humidity? Terry @ UltraDome could probably help but would most likely need the answers to these Qs. Also, which of Lisa’s lights do you have? The 9 watt really doesn’t work for UltraDome … the 36 watt works great.
@carolyn:
I used a signage metallic paper called Gem Lights available at Sign makers.. Terry has a sample of this coated with Ultradome on his business cards. It is a very cool look. I am using a 4 bulb light but I notice that it is no longer for sale on Lisa’s website. It was the larger, more expensive light. I also just put the samples out in the sun and it is still sticky. There is no other moisture but there is a tropical weather system going on here so it is highly humid. Anyone else have a problem curing in this type of weather?
@Lorrie: Sorry, I can’t help with humid factors … I live in dry Nevada!
@Lorrie:
Terry suggested I clean the surface of the material with alcohol before applying resin. The material I used was a sign makers vinyl that looks like glistening metal. Tried again and it worked beautifully! If added to some PC jewelry, one could achieve some great looks with this stuff.
@Lorrie: So glad your resin/paper project worked the 2nd time around! Re: the material/fabric, are you talking about burlap? Just wondering. I like these ideas you two are tossing about!
Also, Jocelyn, what new Kato product did you mean? Are you talking about Poly Paste? I hadn’t heard of it before, although they’re saying it’s been out for a couple years. Not much on the web about it, though, so I’m intrigued!
No Kat, the material is stiffer than burlap. Check out a square of small tiles at Home Depot that you would apply to a wall and look at the backing. It is a type of netting. Sorry I don’t have aname for it. It is very stiff. You would basically glue your finished PC pieces on to this, leaving space for grout lines. Once affixed to the wall and dried, you can grout it as you would any tile squares. I agree that a counter top would not be a great idea but a backsplash would work fine. @Phaedrakat:
BTW – I left my ultra-dome on another piece out in the sun. Boy I’ll never do that again !! It was 103 today (Tucson). The glass was so hot I had to move it into the shade – too hot to pick up. I will definitely just cure in the morning . Hey Lupe – ever had that happen ?……….Live and learn LOL
Hello,
I just got back from a trade show about an hour ago and I think I answered all those that emailed me, if not let me know.
As for humidity, it ‘may’ cause bubbles but I have never heard of it causing the epoxy not to cure. Almost every cure problem can be traced back to chemicals on the surface of the item being domed.
We don’t realize it but everything is touched by chemicals during manufacture and the epoxy is a little sensitive to some of them. Most items can simply be wiped clean with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) and then domed. If this does not work then it is possible the particular item cannot be domed due to it’s chemical makeup. But our Q&A section on UltraDome.com shows how to test to find the exact cause.
Patt, I am not sure what you mean when you say it won’t dome. What happens when you add the epoxy? Does it run off the edge or something? You do know you add it until the liquid is a dome and then cure it. It does not expand or anything like that. You actually make a liquid dome.
The epoxy has a high surface tension that keeps it from running off of a sharp edge, this allows us to build up a dome, then when ready you expose it to the UV light and the dome will harden.
Hope this helps. If not please contact me by email through any of my sites and give me as much detail as you can. We can find a solution for almost any problems.
Thanks!
Terry, is this finish safe for food items to rest on or against?
@Jocelyn: When cured the epoxy is basically a plastic. That being said I would not allow hot foods or acidic foods to rest against the epoxy. So something like an orange or lemon might not be good but a cracker or other cold non acidic food would be OK.
Interesting! I wonder what the acid does to the resin—does it sort of “etch” it? I wonder if you could do some kind of Faux Etched Glass look with lemons! Could be fun…LOL! ;D
@Phaedrakat: Dear Kat I’m trying to figure out if you need more sleep or just have an amazing thought process…….lol.
Andrea
@Phaedrakat: I was actually thinking more of it leaching chemicals out with acid. You could probably etch the surface with Armor Etch acid paste. Never tried it but it might work.
@pollyanna: More sleep—4 sure! ;D
@Jocelyn: Oooh, I agree. I’ve been thinking about lots of ideas for this, too. I love yours about the spoon rest & “tile-like” app’s. I am also very intrigued by Jeanne’s multi-layer idea. Lots of ways to expand on that and create awesome effects. I didn’t understand her initial question, so I’m glad Cindy hit me V-8 style with her reply. Now I can’t wait to play with it…
@Terry Morris: Thanks, Terry!
@Jocelyn: I’d be inclined to treat PC coated with UltraDome like any other PC … keep it away from food. But if you are using the UltraDome on some other product, it might be a different story. What is it that you have in mind, Jocelyn?
@carolyn: Probably a good general idea.
@carolyn: Carolyn, I’m thinking tiles for a kitchen backsplash or vanity surface. It would be sooo pretty, and the metallics would glow in soft light. To start, Cindy’s big square made me think of a great spoon rest, and my mind’s been going since, LOL!
Thank you Terry for your prompt response.
Jeanne C, that multiple layer stamp idea is great! Can’t wait to see the effects you get with that idea.
@Jocelyn:
I have seen clay and glass pieces used for a backsplash. It is beat to apply it to a loose woven stiff fabric to be able to “play” with the design. Once the design is decided, glue the pieces to the stiff material. Then the entire section can be adhered to the wall easily with the design intact. I cannot think of a better way to describe the woven material, almost like a rug backing. PC coated with resin could work very well for this. Once on the wall, non sanded grout would have less of a chance of scratching the resin. Lines can also be made in the PC to accept the grout and sort of make a “faux” mosaic look.
@Lorrie:
Oooops, that is “best to apply” not beat. sorry.
@Lorrie: Great tips, Lorrie. In a way, you treat it like the pebbles, mosaics, or glass tiles…plus that layer acts as protection while you are installing it.
To avoid scratch marks, I’d only use the tile on a wall, not on a surface. Perfect jewelry to adorn your home.
Kato has a new product that acts as a heavy glue or as a grout. Ideal for this application, I would think.
I put 3rd layer or Ultra-dome and cured it. It domed, slightly. I had sanded the sides to make sure it was 90 degree, leveled the container, and cured for 20 min -hard as a rock. So I will try a 4th time -I WILL NEVER GIVE UP !!!
This thing will not get the best of me–darn it……..
Thanks Terry for the reply. A watch won’t work on me – it runs backwards ! Maybe the ULTA-DOME is the same sort of thing. But I will keep trying LOL
Kat, did a little online investigating on the tile backer. Lorrie’s description is perfect, it’s a netting that the pebbles, tiles, or whatnot is attached to so that everything remains in place. The netting is applied directly to the mastic or glue on the wall, and helps hold everything up and even. This approach allows you to put up a lot of pieces without buttering and applying each one.
A second method is used by glass tile folks, who instead of connecting their pieces to a netting in the back, use a paste to apply a paper backing in the front of the tiles. Mostly it keeps them from scratching during installation. Once the tiles are firm in the backing, you soak the paper with a sponge to dissolve the glue and it peels right off.
Think for the small amount of tiles I plan to use, an old onion bag would work great as the web in the back. Little hesitant to use anything on the front of the tile, not sure how the finish would react to the glue.
Lorrie also makes another critical point about grout, you really do not want the type with sand or particles in it, as it would scratch the surface of the tile.
Kato’s PolyPaste is the product I meant, but, I have only seen it on her site and not for sale. Watched a free video there, and the stuff is the bomb as a glue….it will hold objects in place at odd angles and such until it’s baked.
If anyone knows of a source and pricing for the product, please let me know here. Thanks! And I very much appreciate the help and advice.
@Lorrie: Oh yeah, I know the stuff! I bought some 2″ x 2″ tiles to make small “tile sandwiches” for baking clay; they had that mesh/netting on back. I cut them apart & used ’em to back clay. But they were too light to make ‘proper’ sandwiches — live and learn! ;D
@Jocelyn: Kato Poly Paste does sound ‘the bomb’! It’s described as “a special production run of pure Polymer Clay,” and “supplies are limited.” Prairiecraft.com says it’s “Sold Out”, but to check back later. But that message may have been there quite a while…
They also have Poly Glue; 1st time I heard of that, too. Then again, I haven’t used Kato clay yet — except for Kato Liquid Polyclay, or ‘Clear Medium’. That stuff is amazing! So versatile, and it leaves such a clear & shiny finish (unlike TLS.) I wish I could play with the newer Colored Liquid Clays, too, but they make you buy it (of all the nerve!) ;D
~Kat
@Jocelyn: Shades of Clay has Kato PolyPaste listed at CAD $4.99:
shadesofclay.com/products/Clays/PolyClay%20Supplies/PolyClay%20Supplies.htm#Kato_Poly_Paste_
@Sue F.: Thanks for finding the Poly Paste, Sue! I just saw this link, so I thought I’d thank you and “bump” this…just in case Jocelyn missed your helpful link when 1st posted… ;D
Thanks Sue, and Kat! So glad I could find a source for that paste, thanks to you both for bringing to my attention.
Folks here are the best when it comes to help, for sure.
Cindy,
Not sure if anyone asked this before, but would the UV lamp for nail polish curing do the same job as what Lisa’s UV light does?
Thanks.
@ Rada – I think it should work, but the curing time will be longer, the cure time depends on the total wattage of the lamp, I forget how long it takes for the lower wattage lamp to cure, (it’s mentioned int the tutorial I believe), the one I brought from the site that sells the resin has four bulbs and I think is 36w (9w x 4 bulbs), haven’t had a chance to try it yet to know how long this lamp will take.
@Rada – Do you really mean nail polish, or are you referring to the UV lights that are used for artificial nails. The one for artificial nails will work.
@Ken – The 36 watt lamp (at least the ones that Terry Morris of Ultra Dome sells) take 20 minutes to cure. I’ve done lots and love his product and his lamp.
Carolyn, yes I was referring to the nail salon kind of uv light. Those are at 36 watts. Thank you Cindy and Carolyn for the answers =o)
@Rada: Hi Rada, I’m glad you got your question answered. I noticed someone else asked that same question further up this page, and got a reply. The ‘UV Nail Light’ question is very popular — I believe it’s been asked on nearly every resin thread, and others, LOL! Did you find one in a shop, or are you thinking of purchasing online?
Lots of members are buying nail lights to cure their UV resin, because they can get them so much cheaper on eBay. Be sure to find one without a timer (or one with a bypass switch.) Otherwise, it will turn off every 2 – 3 minutes! One of our members just bought a light like that, but fortunately, her husband knows electronics…& was able to bypass the timer switch.
FYI: When you want to search the blog for information, try using the search box at the top of the page. And if you want to quickly search through a long thread of comments, use your browser’s “find” function (or try CNTRL + F.) Then type in “nail” or whatever info you’re looking for.
Best of luck…and have fun! ~Kat
@ Carolyn – Thanks Carolyn, I wasn’t exactly sure, but I remembered in the Tute Video Cindy using a smaller lamp and her saying it would take longer, I eventually brought the one Cindy did, the “pink” one on the sister ultradome site. Like I said in another comment, I haven’t had the ime to make something to try it out yet, all the supplies are sitting on the dinning room table calling to me to “come play”.
Phaedrakat, thank you. I wasn’t even thinking about ebay, but it may be a good idea. I don’t have a lamp yet, so I was just looking at options for a cheaper one. Good point about a timer! And thank you for the search tip :)
Ok, this site is such a wealth of info!! My question is what is the best thing to use to coat paper that an image was printed on? You are not supposed to use Mod Podge with the Magic Gloss. I am expirimenting with spraying clear enamel on both sides. Any advice?
Thanks
@Ippy: Although this isn’t a spray coating, I read recently that clear packing tape can be used for coating dried items safely (use a piece on the front and on the back, with the item stuck in the middle). I would imagine it could work well with paper too. The suggestion was meant for use with Ice Resin. I haven’t tested it out myself yet, but it sounds like an inexpensive, simple way to solve this problem. It might be worth experimenting with different brands to see if this method works with other products too.
In case anyone is interested, I use uv cure resin alot. I have found that the blacklight tubes and light fixtures (48 inch) from the halloween store will work just fine. I have also a uv light curing station for exposing screen print templates, alot like the yUDU system – this cures them faster. You can just buy the lights and stick them into your own fixture – but the lights are more expensive. There is a product called suncure for surfboards which is way cheaper and will dome if handled carefully, but is absolutely perfect for beads and sculpture coating. After 6 months your resin can become thick and lumpy, so get small amounts. A 1 quart can did alittle more than a card table worth of surface even after I eliminated the goof ups! UV light comes in 3 different flavors, UVA, UVB, and the genric UV – Right off the top of my head, I get the A and B mixed up, but the general gist is generic is a mix of both A and B but a little lower on the one you need for the resin, some lights like plant lights concentrate on the other UV spectrum that you do not need for the resin either, but is beneficial to plants. The kind of UV you need is like what reptile lights put out, except they really don’t have a high enough wattage to go fast, but is a good cheap set up for the impatient. The tshirt industry uv tubes are better as they concentrate on the proper part of the UV spectrum needed and the price is kept down. But is you really want to get creative, UV tanning lamps, pond sanitizers, and music DJ equipment are all options to try. I did try a nail station, but it was just too small, I had to take it apart and make the enclosure bigger. The small wattage lamps took a bit longer too. One other thing to remember (actually two) is that this type of UV needed for the resin causes skin cancer and is bad for your eyes, so limit the exposure. This is easy, physical distance from the bulb and simple pane of glass can block uv rays. One other thing I did not know until way into my research is that UV lights take time to warm up and put out the full strength of light, and the light output will degrade (whigh means the wattage output will become less and less) as they are used. What uses them up the most is turning them on and off repeatedly. If you are going to use your UV light off and on for a couple of hours, just leave it on.
Well sorry for the long post, but thanks for reading!
@Ippy: That’s a great question! You can seal your prints with PYMII (Preserve Your Memories II) It is a spray that works well with all kinds of matierials including injet prints, resins and polymer clay. (I’ve linked to it by my name.) Or you can try Terry Morris the UltraDome guy’s new product called InkSeal. I haven’t tried it yet but he sells it at epoxyjewelry.com and it sounds very promising.
@Stella: Never apologize for for writing such long and informative posts! This is awesome information and helpful for everyone who comes here. You taught me a lot about UV light that I knew nothing about. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us!
@Stella: Loads of great info Stella, thanks so much for sharing!
Im reading about uv lamps, there are 9W,18W and 4x9W lamps.
The ones i saw were all about the same price. Is it better to have 4x9W or doesnt it matter how many Watts it has?
Silly me, i didnt read the comments well enough….i guess 9W is ok but needs a l;onger curing time, 36W is better as it cures quicker, but if youre not in a rush 9W qill do for all brands of UV resin? I seem to remember seeing a video on youtube about magic glos that needed 36 W to cure. But than, ive seen and read so much lately that maybe i gotthe info all mixed up.
@Marion K: Good job and finding the info. There is a lot of stuff here at this blog, but you will soon learn your way around it.
I have both a 9W and a 36W and can tell you the 36W is WAY better! It not only cures faster and harder but there is more space inside to work with for larger pendants and multiple pieces. If you are going to use UV Resin in your work, don’t bother with the 9W and go straight to the 36W. You won’t be sorry.
After having the UV resin demo done at the Mile High PC guild retreat, there is another reason why our instructor, Peg Harper, recommended the 36W lamp. The “bottom” of the 36W lamps are removable, which allow you to slide your work on the worksurface (like a small tile) directly underneath the lamp, without having to pick it up and try to keep it steady while moving outside, or onto the very narrow bottom ledge of the 9W lamp.
Is it possible to apply this as a thin (no doming) protective varnish (like Future or varathane) to a baked polymer clay piece to protect an image transferred? If so, how would you apply it (syringes, applicators vs. q-tips, brushes)? Sealing the image was also mentioned – would that mean TLS or PYM2 or Future?
You can apply it with a brush to get a thin coating
@Terry Morris. I’m thinking about trying to “cast” the Ultradome UV resin in a thin brass stamping, so that the Resin will separate from the metal mold. What would be the best type of a resist for this, and any other material you don’t want the Ultradome to adhere to??
@Tina M.: Pretty much anything that I can think of that would prevent the epoxy from sticking may also prevent it from fully curing.
Not sure what you want to accomplish but there may be a better way. If you are trying to make resin shapes then you would be better off making a master with polymer clay by pressing it into the stamping then baking it, remove it then using Simple-Silicone putty to make a mold of the clay piece.
This would make a mold that could be cast in resin over an over.
Just remember the resins first job is to harden as a dome and second is to act like a glue.
Cindy I want to thank you for recommending Terry Morris’ epoxy jewelry site. The difference between 9 and 36 watts for curing UV resin is like comparing an E-Z bake oven to a Viking range. His bezels are well-priced, too. Sometimes value is more important than cheap. I’m glad I saved up and got the 36 watt. Keep up the great work!
@Elizabeth G: you are going to love it! The 36 watt light will make things so easy! The light I got had the two minute timer and my sweet hubby was able to disconnect it so now I just use a timer. My Art Director, Princess Daisy, she is a Maltese, thinks the timer bell is the Mailman and will bark like crazy!!
I haven’t tried his bezels yet. I will soon since they will make nice focal pendants. Oh, and the Simple Silicone is great, too! I shop not only for things I can cover with clay, but what I can make molds of! S
So fun!!
I have been claying and try a new glos, i am using magic gloss for extra gloss but I have an issue, when applying magic glos of lisa pavelka the uv gel tears apart from my clay charm some parts have gel and others not, also when applying a second layer does the same. I had previously cleaned with acetone my charms ans does the same. Does somebody knows why this happens?
Hi Elizabeth!
Just pop “magic gloss” into the search box in the upper right corner and you’ll find all the mysteries of Magic Gloss revealed, including a few great tips.
This is a known issue, and Lisa Pavelka has videos on her site especially addressing how to work around this issue. It produces a lovely gloss coat, so is well worth the extra effort, in my opinion.
Though due to Cindy’s collaboration with Terry Morris, I am more partial to his products and methods. If you want clear gloss, you get great results the first time.
All best.
Where can I buy the UV Light? Any specific brand? Thanks, LOVE your vidios
We have the UV lights on our site or you can get them from eBay. Just be sure to get the 36w version at minimum, we now have a larger 54w version as well.
Hi Nick, Terry carries them like he said, and you can also check out this link where I did a review of another lamp that works too.
Hi, I’m trying to use Ultradome in casting into very teeny tiny silicone molds. These molds are made for making adornments for fingernails so they are very small and very shallow. The problem is they don’t cure all the way through to the mold surface. When I turn out the shapes they are tacky and even turning them up and put them back into the lamp they don’t cure. I have a 36w lamp and cure for 20 minutes.
Any reasons or suggestions on why this won’t work or how to get it to work?
Should I use another brand of UV resin for this?
Has anyone tried these new UV resins from China? Do they yellow?
Hi Louise, The thing about UV resin is that it needs the light to penetrate though it completely, so when it is deep and in a small enclosed area like a silicone mold, then it will have issues setting properly. If some of it does seem to cure, but some of it isn’t curing, what I would do is double or triple the time you are curing for on both sides, like you are doing right now, and see if that helps.
In regards to the UV Resin from China, although I haven’t actually tried it yet (Need to order some I guess), there are plenty of people in the polymer clay niche who have tried it and apparently it works really well. It cures super fast. I think I have seen people use it in molds too, but I wouldn’t quote me on that. One thing about it though is that it is VERY smelly, so if you are sensitive to smells, you might not like working with it. It’s cheap though, so it wouldn’t hurt to try it!