Sealing Polymer Clay Best Practices

Sealing Polymer Clay - Polymer Clay TutorVideo #693: If you absolutely must seal your polymer clay, here are the products that I’ve tested and can recommend.

I get the question all the time… Do I have to seal polymer clay? And if so, with what?

The short answer is No…. Unless you need to.

When polymer clay is baked, it basically becomes plastic that doesn’t need to be protected. So if you don’t add anything to it, or you don’t want a specific finish on it, you actually don’t need to seal it at all.

But if you add something to the surface that could get scratched or rubbed off, you may need to protect it with a polymer clay safe finish.

In this video, I let you know which sealer product that I recommend.

Do you have any suggestions for videos on tips, techniques or products you would like to learn more about? Let me know in the comments section below!

My goal is to help you to learn quicker and easier ways to bring up the professionalism in your polymer clay art.

Oh and don’t forget to give these videos a Thumbs Up click at YouTube if you are enjoying them. The more Likes a video gets, the higher it rises in the searches. And that means even more people will be able to join in on this polymer clay journey of a lifetime.

Also, by subscribing to our YouTube Channel directly, you will receive notifications as soon as new videos are uploaded. To subscribe, click here… Do I HAVE to Seal Polymer Clay? Only if necessary! … the Subscribe Button is right near the top of that YouTube page.

Looking forward to hearing from you!

Cindy Lietz SignaturePolymer Clay Tutor


  1. Catalina, 17 August, 2015

    Just what I needed to know! I have a problem with copper turning my skin green. Thankfully I have PYM II so, I will try that on my copper jewelry! Thanks, Cindy! See you Friday in Vancouver!

  2. Cindy Lietz, 18 August, 2015

    I’m excited to finally be able to meet you Catalina!

  3. Krithika P, 17 August, 2015

    This was an excellent review!! Super useful to see the range of finishes you can get. I love PYM ii, Renaissance Wax and resin. Resin and Renaissance Wax are especially great on mica clays, really brings out the colors. Kato poly clay is great too when blasted with a heat gun. I really like Minwax polyurethane and Varathane as well, I was surprised to see that they weren’t mentioned. I prefer these much more to the Golden varnishes.

  4. Cindy Lietz, 18 August, 2015

    Hi Krithika, for high gloss finishes I really prefer to just sand and buff my pieces, rather than put any finish on them at all, so on the rare occasion that I do use a finish on them, I use what I have. I find the Liquidtex and the Golden to be very good products.

  5. Gloria U, 21 August, 2015

    Terrific video Cindy! Thanks for sharing. I have used Testors clear acrylic paint to coat polymer clay projects with good results. It comes in matte and gloss. Since you do so much testing, I wonder if you might test it and see how it compares? Thanks!

  6. Cindy Lietz, 23 August, 2015

    Thanks for letting us know about your results with the Testors Acrylic Gloria! I will have to have a look out for that product to try out in the PcT Test Lab myself. Thanks for the suggestion!

  7. Cheryl Hind, 22 August, 2015

    As always the information you provided was extremely helpful. Looking forward to the new changes. Can’t wait. You and Doug do an awesome job.


  8. Wilma Hughes, 22 August, 2015

    Hi Cindy. I think my question did not post so here goes again. I want to make soap dishes for my handmade soaps. Do I have to add a finish on the baked clay?

  9. Cindy Lietz, 23 August, 2015

    Hi Wilma, I am thinking your soap dishes would be best off if you didn’t put a finish on them… especially since the water and soap may eventually soften your finish. I don’t see a problem with the soap or water effecting your polymer clay… though of course with all new thing you try with polymer clay, it is always best to test! Make some soap dishes for yourself and use them, to see how they do in real life situations. DO let us know how they work out for you!

  10. Wilma hughes, 23 August, 2015

    Thanks Cindy. I was thinking of a coat of liquid polymer to give shine as they are bumpy and can not sand . I will test.

  11. Jill Arnson, 04 September, 2015

    I have been using the Johnson and Johnson, Pledge Floor Care Finish. It was recommend by several of my Mile High Polymer Clay colleagues I use a soft camel hair brush to apply. generally 3 coats. It gives the clay a nice shine and hides any “dinks” in the surface (-:
    It’s available at some Walmarts

  12. Nancy Yasuoka, 10 September, 2015

    Hi Cindy, I just love your site and can’t wait to see the new version. I have come upon a problem lately, I have been making polymer clay charms and sealing them with the Golden glaze. For some reason they seem to remain tacky, over a week now. Am I doing something wrong, or could it be the terrible humidity we have been having in San Diego lately?

  13. Cindy Lietz, 16 September, 2015

    Hmmm that is very strange Nancy, I have not had that happen to me. I suppose it could be the humidity. It also could be that you have put too thick a layer on and the layer underneath is having difficulty drying… or something else you used with the glaze is incompatible or something? Try popping them into a low oven (under 275F) for about 10-15 minutes and see if that helps. You can remove a finish with rubbing alcohol or acetone if you need to, but hopefully heat setting it will help. Good luck!

  14. Nancy Yasuoka, 16 September, 2015

    Thanks for your response. I did go thru the removal of the golden glaze with alcohol, I did only 1 coating, and re-baked them again. I think I may have a problem with my oven thermometer, I used 3 different ones and each came out with a different temp. Now, how can I tell which of my thermometers is correct. Think I will dump them all and get a new one. Any recommendations? Anyway, I believe I under-baked them. I have re-glazed them with polyurethane. We will wait and see. 2 days so far, and no reaction. Love your site, you give such wonderful advice. Can’t wait until October.

  15. Cindy Lietz, 17 September, 2015

    You’re welcome Nancy. I am not sure what to say about the 3 different oven thermometers… you would think that 2 out of three would have been the same, but when they are all different, it is hard to tell if any are right. If two of them are pretty close, they could be the closest to being right, but of course that is no guarantee either. Maybe a digital one would be good? Sorry don’t have a recommendation, I have just used the ones from the grocery store and got rid of them when they seemed to not be reading correctly anymore. I suppose that you could have under baked your clay and it is reacting with the glaze. I have never had an issue with the Golden Glaze, so I am not really sure what is happening there. Glad to hear the polyurethane is working for you though. Thanks for commenting!

  16. Lori M, 04 October, 2015

    Hi, I’ve made a sugar skull pendent with sculpty and primo clay and after baking the white turned translucent and the colors dull. So I very carefully painted the white area with acrylic paint and now want to seal it. Ideally I’d like the skull to stay matte while the colors would be nice to pop. Would you please tell me which sealers to use. Thank you so much for your time and suggestions. sincerely, Lori

  17. Cindy Lietz, 07 October, 2015

    Hi Lori, if you want your piece to stay matte, you could use a matte varnish like the Liquitex matte Varnish with the red label. You could also use PYMII if you did a light spray or Renaissance Wax, if you wiped it on but didn’t buff it. You didn’t really have to protect the paint though. It should be stuck on there pretty good.

  18. Pamela Northcott, 30 October, 2015

    Hi Cindy & Doug
    As someone who has recently found the fascination and fun of polymer clay I am so grateful for your wonderful site and videos. The only problem I have is that I live in Australia and getting some of the products you mention is sometimes almost impossible. The PYM II you recommend looks as if it is ideal for use on many things. Getting it here is difficult as aircraft and spay cans do not mix!! I have found a source here in Australia but it seems expensive at $34 a can plus postage (the renaissance wax is very dear too). In case any other people are looking for it ‘Down Under’ – Over the Rainbow web site does stock it.
    I looks forward to learning so much more from you. Rather isolated here as I know no one else who works with polymer clay so the internet is my teacher and inspiration.

  19. Cindy Lietz, 02 November, 2015

    Thanks Pamela for letting us know about your resource! We have several Aussie members that should find this helpful.

  20. Kate S, 30 March, 2016

    Hi Cindy very helpful video. Which of the 2 golden varnishes in your video do you prefer? I live in New Zealand and have limited access to products. I too prefer to sand and buff my work but sometimes I do need to varnish. Many thanks and keep up the fantastic work :-)

  21. Jeanine Jacob, 22 April, 2016

    Hi Cindy, Have you tested resin spray by castin craft. Thanks for all the great videos on testing products.

  22. Cindy Lietz, 27 April, 2016

    I have not tested the resin spray from casting craft yet. Will add it to the list.

  23. Natalie Herbin, 10 May, 2016

    I remember that quite. Awhile ago you talked about Golden Medium Acrylic Glazing Liquid (gloss))but I don’t r ember want you said . I bought it at that time but I have not used it. . In this video , mentioned it briefly .. do I add water to it like the other Golden product and if I do how much… Also , I have not figure out yet after 4, years how to post my work so you and other can see it.. Can Doug give me a brief rundown on how to do it
    Natalie Herbin aka Safti

  24. Cindy Lietz, 11 May, 2016

    Hi Natalie, only the varnishes that tell you to mix with water will need to be mixed with water. Most of them don’t. With the acrylic glazing medium, you can use as is, or tint it with paints. But you don’t mix that one with water.

    For posting pictures, go to our Facebook Page and post your photos there.

  25. Natalie H, 11 May, 2016

    Thank you for that quick response… I will rely that info to my polymer clay guild at our next meeting

  26. Thelma McClure, 19 June, 2016

    Your video was helpful. I just hope I can remember enough of it to do things correct.

    I have just begun to work with clay and need some help on a couple of things.

    I purchased the powder and was told I had the incorrect powders. They look like the embossing powder. Is there more than embossing and micro powders. Can the micro powders be used and baked.

    I need to know what to use on polymer clay that is a this sheet that has been rolled for a necklace. I feel it needs something to harden it to keep from breaking.
    Could you please tell me what to use.

    Thanks for providing me the information needed..

  27. Cindy Lietz, 20 June, 2016

    Hi Thelma, I am not totally sure what you are asking, but if you are wanting a powder that will make your piece stronger, I don’t know of one. If your piece is properly baked it won’t break. I have tons of videos on baking your polymer clay properly… which brands to use… and how to avoid burning. Use the search box at the top of the page to find the info you need. Also you may want to consider purchasing my Beginners Course. It will help you to have the success you want, without making a whole ton of mistakes while learning the basics.

  28. Brittany S, 19 April, 2017

    I was wondering about the golden acrylic glazing liquid and wonder if it drys hard and how it holds up is that what you used on the fairy door cause you called it acrylic glazing medium i wasn’t sure if that was the same thing or the other golden prouct you use

  29. Brittany S, 19 April, 2017

    Also have you used the satin of the same product

  30. Cindy Lietz, 20 April, 2017

    Hi Britanny, sorry for the slow reply. I need another me! Both the Golden Acrylic Glazing Liquid and the Golden Polymer Varnish UVL (I believe that is what I used) are good for using on the Fairy Door. The Varnish does have UV protector in it, so if you were using it outside, that would be a better choice. But both are durable and well suited for indoor use.

  31. Brittany S, 25 April, 2017

    Thank you so much I’ve just started playing around with polymer clay and your youtube channel has been so helpful i never relies how many different things you can do i love it

  32. Karinill Sanabria, 19 April, 2017

    Thank you so much for the informative video. I was looking for something to protect sharpie ink on polymer clay and mugs, since the ones I have are not oil based but alcohol based. The product you mention seems to be ideal for what I am looking for. I am wondering where I can find PYM II. Can I find that in a local Michaels? I tried searching online with no luck.

  33. Cindy Lietz, 20 April, 2017

    Hi Karinill, as far as the PYMII, you can only buy it online or in a few tiny retail locations but not in the regular big box stores. However, the owners have recently retired and sold their business. So, although I do believe the product will be for sale again by the new owners… I don’t know who they are or where they will be selling it as of yet. I would do a quick Google search to see if you can find someone who still has some in stock. If you do find a place that is selling it, let us know if you can. Good Luck!

  34. Jess D, 17 September, 2019

    Hi, there seems to be so many different options to choose from. What would you recomed is best to use on polymer that is painted only using acrylic paints? My paint seems to scratch off quite easily so was hoping a seal would help. Ideally I would like a satin finish.
    Thanks :)

  35. Cindy Lietz, 25 September, 2019

    Hi Jess, I would consider testing a few different paints. You might find a different paint might not scratch off as easily. Also make sure to heat set your painted pieces, by popping them into the oven for 15-20 mins. That will also help bond the paint to the clay. Sealing a paint that isn’t well bonded isn’t going to help that much, especially if there are large painted areas. (Unless of course it is something quite thick and strong like resin.) If you still want to seal your paint, good choices are Golden Acrylic Varnishes, Polyeurathane, and Liquitex Acrylic Varnishes. Do some testing and see what works best for you.

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