Triple Thick Gloss Glaze – Compatible or Not?

Triple Thick Gloss Glaze on Polymer ClayVideo #403: My polymer clay tests have worked out fine… but others say it has gone sticky for them.

Topics Covered In This Video:

  • I’m not usually a fan of big gloppy glazes… it’s becasue I feel that in most cases, sanding, buffing and waxing gives a more professional lookng result. But sometimes there is a time and place for a gloss glaze, such as on the icing of this cute little Blueberry Muffin from my Miniature Cupcake Beads Tutorial.
  • I did a test sample of Triple Thick Gloss Glaze on a baked piece of Premo Sculpey Clay, that had a chance to sit for a few months.
  • As far as my test sample shows, Triple Thick is compatible with polymer clay. I am not seeing any stickiness or any problems with it.
  • But I have heard that others do have issues with Triple Thick getting sticky over time.
  • So I am wondering whether it was the way it was put on. Maybe the coating was put on too thick in the first place and it never got a chance to cure properly in the layers underneath? Or maybe it is a humidity issue?
  • I did notice that my sample showed a bit of yellowing. On some of the Triple Thick bottles, it says non-yellowing, but my label does not say that. So I don’t know if it is a different formula or what’s going on there.


Question of the Day:

Have you used Triple Thick Gloss Glaze before? Have you ever had issues with it becoming sticky? And could you tell us more about it? I’d love to get to the bottom of this!

I look forward to hearing from you.

By the way, if you have a polymer clay question or challenge you’d like me to address in an upcoming video vlog, do post it in the comments below. I’d love to help you find quicker and easier ways to bring up the professionalism in your polymer clay art.

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Looking forward to hearing from you!

Cindy Lietz SignaturePolymer Clay Tutor
  1. Jocelyn C, 25 July, 2013

    Cindy, thanks for the test lab on this product, have always wondered how it performed. Was amazed by the amount of feedback you get on the YouTube pages for each video, another great resource of information.

    Wish there was a way for those comments to be integrated with those here at the blog, so that the PCT search engine used here would pick up information shared there.

    Of course, that wish would probably include comments and advice offered on Facebook pages where your videos are shared as well.

    Hope you all are having a great summer.

  2. Cindy Lietz, 25 July, 2013

    Thanks Jocelyn! You’re right about the YouTube bunch being quite responsive. It is a younger demographic there mostly and texting is just part of their MO. It is nice to get instant feedback like that. Though there are a lot more ‘trolls’ there, as the kids call them, who think it is perfectly acceptable to be rude or mean or just plain wrong, but they are in the very tiny minority. (Thank goodness!)

    It is a wealth of info that would be valuable to have here too, but consolidating it here, isn’t that easy. At least we haven’t got that figured out yet. I suppose there may be some sort of widget with ‘news feeds’ that could be linked up with YouTube comments… I have seen Twitter Feeds like that. We’ll have to look into that.

    Glad to see you back around! Are you feeling better then? I know it’s been rough for you lately.

  3. Jocelyn C, 25 July, 2013

    Thanks for asking Cindy, I appreciate it. I have a good day here and there, but, mostly with the heat and humidity…bleck. Looking forward to Fall, lol.

    Sure hope you can find a way to integrate the comments from all the sources so the data can all be googled from this site.

    I can tell a lot of the comments on YouTube are from the younger set. It’s good to see they are interested and eager to try polymer clay!

  4. Elizabeth S., 25 July, 2013

    I bought some years ago and quick I, am thick gooey glaze challenged,and so abandoned Triple Thick as my glaze of choice. Thank you so much for the video, though, and to all of you who affirmed that it isn’t just me who struggled with the product.

    I don’t know if it is appropriate to add this here but I am having similar issues with UV Resin and am wondering if anyone can help me troubleshoot the problem. I really don’t think it is curing time as I am pretty fastidious about that. I’m wondering if the resin is not compatible with plastic as I had stored the pendants in plastic jewelry bags. Then I got to thinking, knowing that PC is incompatible with plastic, maybe it is the PC that was the issue and not the resin. Anyway, any help with this mystery would be appreciated at some point. I absolutely love this product and would love to know what I am doing wrong. Thanks. Elizabeth

  5. Cindy Lietz, 25 July, 2013

    Hi Elizabeth, nice to see you too! Sure it is perfectly fine to discus the sticky resin here. Do you think it may not have been fully cured or that there could be some compatibly issues with something you put the resin in? I did have some old bezels that I didn’t clean first with rubbing alcohol before adding the UV resin, that got sticky way later around the edges where the resin touched the metal. Some newer ones that I had cleaned well, didn’t have that issue.

    I just checked some of my polymer and resin only pieces that have been stored in my drawer units (you know the ones I have on my wall with the clay and other stuff in). They’ve been in there for more than 2 years now and I don’t see any of them with stickiness issues.

    It sure would be nice if everything was always simple and reliable wouldn’t it? But then where would the challenge be? Life would probably get a little boring without challenges, right? :)

  6. Andrea Paradiso, 28 July, 2013

    Hi, Elizabeth!

    Just had a conversation on FB with someone in UK this week who also mentioned problems with UV Resin. I have a bottle I bought almost two years ago and not used. I was going to do it in sunlight. Now I think I’ll just test it first. If it also has a shelf date…like the Polybonder…which we don’t know about, it will be obsolete. Thanks for telling us this.

  7. Kerry Best, 25 July, 2013

    Thanks for sharing great info!
    This is an area I struggle with, and I have started blaming my own skin for some if it. :-)
    I have tried the triple gloss glaze and been happier with it than most for a thicker glaze. However, I find that on pendants that are against my skin, everything gets sticky after a few wears. Lately, I have started only sanding & not sealing the backs of pendants. Honestly, I’ve always had acidic somewhat oily skin, which is likely the problem.
    Recently, I’ve given a few pendants to others & hope to get feedback (if they actually wear them – haha!)
    Thanks again & keep the research coming!

  8. Cindy Lietz, 25 July, 2013

    That is very interesting Kerry! It quite possibly could be the oils in the skin causing the issues on your pendants. On those sticky pieces, were they only sticky on the back? If they were, that would be a further clue as to that being the possibility. If they were sticky on the front too, then maybe not. It is a bit of a mystery Eh?

  9. Cheyrl B, 26 July, 2013

    I haven’t tried the triple thick yet but almost everything else that has been recommended and my big problem is the brush strokes that I can’t seem to avoid, I have actually re-sanded pieces to remove the glazes and just hit them with PYMii it gives them a nice shine but I would love to use glaze on some of the pieces.I really am glaze challenged.
    Btw I didn’t get a chance to comment on the last video about the Pavelka Polybonder Glue…. so far not a fan, it works well on something if you put it on then bake it but doesn’t seem to hold for attaching already baked pieces for pin or earring backs. I might be doing something wrong ….as usual. I will go back to the tutorial and the comments and look for help.

  10. Andy L, 26 July, 2013

    I have used the Triple Thick Glaze quite a bit, and honestly, the results can be pretty hit or miss. I do believe that the stickiness comes on pieces that are handled frequently. I have glazed things that sit around in a drawer for lengthy periods of time, that are as shiny as the day I glazed them, with no tackiness. Then there’s other pieces that have been glazed, and for some reason or other, I can’t keep from handling them, and they get a little tacky. The tackiness and handling eventually causes the piece to lose the shine it had.

    I do find that if I do that trick where after glazing, you pop it into the oven at a low temp for about 15 minutes, and let it cool gradually, the finish seems to be pretty durable. The coating MUST be fairly thin, though, else you get bubbling up. Humidity is likely a huge factor in the glaze becoming tacky, so I think sometimes the baking method helps eliminate some of that issue, though your results may vary.

    Another thing I like to do is put some of the Triple Thick into a small container, and add color to the glaze, either alcohol ink or some paint, just like you would with liquid clay. This makes a great glaze if you’re doing ceramic effects.

    All in all, the Triple Thick isn’t a bad glaze to use. The tackiness people have seen is more than likely not the result of reaction with the polymer, but more a case of frequent handling or humidity. I think Triple Thick is best used on pieces that won’t be handled much, or don’t come in direct contact with skin too often. Earrings and pins are probably fine to use the glaze on, but would perhaps avoid using on pendants or bracelets.

    Another things occurred to me. Avoid storing glazed pieces together for extended periods of time, especially if the glazed areas can come in contact with each other. They will stick, sometimes bonding completely, and pulling them pieces apart can pull up the glaze. When this happens, sometimes you can completely peel off the glaze, which can be a pain. Just avoid it is you can. :-)

  11. Cindy Lietz, 26 July, 2013

    You bring up some excellent points Andy! Thank you so much for sharing your experiences here with us. I think what I’ll do is some further testing on this by putting it on some pieces that will get handled a lot and places with high humidity, like the bathroom, etc.

    To be honest, it is exactly these kinds of hassles with finishes that makes me avoid them in most cases. I prefer to sand and buff, then use Renaissance Wax, but there are times when a thick shiny finish give you the look you want.

    Thanks again for your input!

  12. Kerry Best, 26 July, 2013

    Thanks, Andy! Great feedback and advice.

  13. Andrea Paradiso, 28 July, 2013

    Hi, All!

    I don’t use glazes now and never used this one. When I first started PC, I was really not happy using any kind of varnish but couldn’t find a way around it. But since Cindy put me on to sanding, polishing and then buffing with the Ren Wax I couldn’t be happier. I would rather have a smooth, silky naked finish that’s deep and warm than one that is thick and glossy and looks like it’s just sitting on top of something and that might also be unreliable. That is just me, of course. I have seen some many gorgeous pieces that I am sure are finished with glazes and varnishes but I am not going to try it anymore. I am so completely happy this way I don’t want to change the good thing I’ve got going.

  14. DebiS, 28 July, 2013

    Hello all!
    I just wanted to put in my 2 cents on the triple thick. I made the mistake of using this on ALOT of my beads a couple of years ago. These beads were stored in the multipart plastic containers and when I went to use some of them they were all stuck together in each compartment. I tried several things to get it off because I had some major work in these beads and no luck. My daughter came up with a killer solution that prolly will work on lots of coating errors. She put them into our tumbler with sand…water…and some dish soap. It was amazing! A couple of hours later all of the goop-y-fied triple thick was floating on the top of the water! Whoo…Hooo! No work! And my gorgeous beads were good again!

  15. Andrea Paradiso, 28 July, 2013

    Thanks for the tip, DebiS. And congratulations to your daughter for having a quick thinking head on her shoulders!

  16. Natalie Herbin, 29 July, 2013

    I had a similar problem when I first started using pc.. I sprayed my finished projects with varish from a can.. An low and bold…. They became very sticky and stuck together after a while…. So I had to sand of the finish…it took ao g time … I finally used my hubby dremel and buffed off it all off but it to soooooong…… Now I use pledge future shine only after they have beeen hand sanded .. But I use very little. I will eventually buy the Ren wax

  17. Andrea Paradiso, 29 July, 2013

    Hi, Natalie! I know the Ren Wax LOOKS expensive but the little tub will last forever. A very little bit is all you need. It is in fact more economical than Pledge and will never give you the wax build up.

  18. Sylvia B., 02 August, 2013

    Hi Cindy,

    Huge fan here!
    Well, I have used Triple Thick in some of my works and noticed that it reacts with perfum. I applied some perfum on my skin and just after that put on a necklace. It sticked in my skin as if glued! So, no way I will sell my beautiful jewelery and ruin my reputation! lol
    I would like to know the name of the product DebiS. used. It sounds wonderful to solve this problem.
    I wonder what am I going to do with the bottle I bought?

    Thanks,
    Sylvia Barsotti

  19. Marianne O., 10 September, 2013

    Cindy,
    Thanks again for your wonderful wisdom! I love the videos, and I am getting a lot out of them. I just bought the triple thick yesterday, and had I noticed the post, I would have returned the triple thick to Michael’s when I was there this morning! Oh well, now it just gives me an excuse to make my 4th trip of the week! ( I make beaded jewelry as a hobby). What would you say is your favourite finish on PC that you would recommend?

  20. Cindy Lietz, 11 September, 2013

    Thanks Marianne! I am so glad you are enjoying the tutorials! My favorite finish for polymer clay is sanding, buffing and Renaissance Wax. It gives the most professional finish and you don’t need to worry about it getting sticky, getting drips or brush strokes on your beautiful polymer clay projects.

    To learn more about sanding, buffing and Renaissance Wax, do a quick search using the search box at the top of the page. It will lead you to the information and tutorials that will teach you all you need to know.

    I’m not at the computer that shows what you have already purchased, so I don’t know off hand what you may already have, but I do know some of the sanding info is in the Beginners Course that you have.

    If you have anymore questions, don’t hesitate to ask. And BTW, you’re not the only one that spends a fair amount of time at Michaels! ;)

  21. Marianne O., 12 September, 2013

    Thanks Cindy! Taking back the triple thick tomorrow, I hope! I have ordered the sanding files (micromesh), and the coloured mini micromesh(?) squares, plus gold and silver pen kits from PSI, but I had a bad experience: my bill was for just under $50, and they charged me $33 in duty!!!! (They charged me based on my additional $27 for the shipping). I was upset to find out that a woodturner friend of mine told me I should have ordered from Woodchuckers in Toronto! My bad, and my poor mistake! On that note, any idea where I can purchase the Ren. wax, since I am almost certain that Michael’s will not have it. I am actually a hobby beader and ceramic artist, so I am not familiar with the ‘clay’ world, I am so new at this!

  22. Cindy Lietz, 16 September, 2013

    That is really too bad about the duty on your pen blanks Marianne! I don’t get charged duty when mine were shipped. It’s weird… it seems that it is real hit or miss as to whether you get charged or not. I always make sure to get my packages sent regular US mail (USPS) and not by courier. Couriers seem to charge duties and brokerage fees the most often.

    As far as Ren Wax goes, there is an awesome Canadian Company online called Shades of Clay. They have pretty much anything you need for polymer clay, including Ren wax and PYMII. Check them out. Tell Wendy Orlowski I sent you!

  23. Marianne O., 12 September, 2013

    Sorry Cindy, If I could have edited my last comment, I would have done so! I repeated myself, and now I feel like an idiot! It’s my pain meds talking, had a really bad day, but you made it better….again, thank you.

  24. Kathleen B, 31 October, 2013

    I am a freelance artist and am asked by clients to make various things. I was asked to create a polar bear out of Sculpey, with texture added for the fur. It’s about eight inches high and has an armature with several extensions. The sculpture was baked and then painted with acrylic paints. Triple Thick Glaze Spray was then used to seal. Six months later the Triple Thick is still very tacky. I think that any sanding will also remove the paint and possibly the texture. “Tumbling” is out of the question. I could paint again but, any suggestions for removal or thinning of the Triple Thick? Acetone?

  25. Cindy Lietz, 31 October, 2013

    Hi Kathleen B, yeah triple thick can have problems with getting sticky, especially if a second or third coat is put on before the previous layer is fully cured. You can remove it though by soaking it in a small container of rubbing alcohol (or a you can wipe it down with acetone). Once you remove it fully you can use a different finish such as Varethane or Renaissance Wax (my favorite). Type finishes into the search box to learn more. Let us know how it goes!

  26. Kathleen B, 20 November, 2013

    Thanks, Cindy, the rubbing alcohol loosened everything, even the gesso. (I’m sure the alcohol was much kinder to my skin than acetone.) Then with toothpicks and lots of rubbing the Sculpey surface came clean. I am now priming with two coats of STIX primer (I’ve used it on outdoor fiberglass sculptures and seems to work well), and will paint again with acrylic. The client says he’ll then send it to MAACO to finish. But as he said he wanted a matte finish, I’m going to suggest Renaissance Wax or an acrylic matte varnish — with plenty of curing time between coats!

  27. ana delia, 02 December, 2013

    yo utilizo triple thick y las piezas al poco tiempo me dijeron que se ensuciaban y que con el agua se humedecia, alguien sabe algun otro producto que se pueda utilizar para abrillantar sin que se ensucien o si el gloss sculpey no causa este efecto ?

    GOOGLE TRANSLATION: “I use triple thick pieces and soon told me they got dirty and moistened with water, someone knows some other product that can be used to polish without getting dirty or if the sculpey gloss does not cause this effect?”

  28. Cindy Lietz, 03 December, 2013

    Hi Ana, The Sculpey Gloss Glaze won’t get sticky so you can use that if you wish but my favorite product is Renaissance Wax.

    GOOGLE TRANSLATION:
    Hola Ana, El Sculpey Gloss Glaze no conseguirá pegajosa así que usted puede utilizar que si lo desea, pero mi producto favorito es Renaissance Wax.

  29. Ana delia, 04 January, 2014

    gracias por su respuesta ya compre el gloss sculpey y me encanto nada de suciedad gracias :) disculpe que la moleste con tantas preguntas pero tengo un problema cuando horneo la arcilla polimerica se revienta o se hacen grietas esto me pasa cuando hago figuras gruesas mas de .5 cm no se si usted sabe por que sucede esto ?

  30. Cindy Lietz, 07 March, 2014

    Hi Ana, Sometimes a piece will crack when there is air trapped in it. Make sure to be careful to pop any bubbles in the clay. You can fill the cracks with raw clay and bake again. Good luck!

    Hola Ana, A veces una pieza se agrieta cuando hay aire atrapado en ella. Asegúrese de que tener cuidado de hacer estallar las burbujas en la arcilla. Puede rellenar las grietas con arcilla cruda y cocer de nuevo. ¡Buena suerte!

  31. Yolanda Alcarraz Rodriguez, 02 March, 2014

    Hi Cindy, I never use this gloss but I used an other from my country (I’m from Peru), The gloss I used was very nice at the begining but when I use the jewelery several times the gloss started to dessapiar for the use, Can you make a video for the best gloss for jewelery on the time? Thank you.! I REALLY like your videos!

  32. Cindy Lietz, 07 March, 2014

    Thank you for the suggestion Yolonda! I will be adding more videos on glazes. The toughest finish is epoxy resin. It works very well on flat pieces. Type the word ‘finishes’ or ‘resin’ into the search box at the top of the page to learn more about the different kinds of finishes and stay tuned for more videos in the future!

  33. Gina M, 28 April, 2015

    Hello… First I wanna say I love your YouTube page, so very helpful. I do have a question about glazes. I made bird houses this year as mother day gifts & I’m wondering if I glaze them, will they hold up to Mother Nature.? The 1 is going to MT so it gets around 100 on hot days & about 40 at night. I’m worried about the sun. So my question is should I glaze them & what glaze do you recommend ? Thanks for everything … Happy Claying.
    Gina

  34. Jocelyn C, 29 April, 2015

    Gina, the best finish I find for outside use is pymii, a spray which provides UV protectant. The outside clay pieces have held up for years with just slight fading, though I do hide them in the ferns somewhat to protect them from direct light. You can find out more about this issue by using the search function here “UV or sunlight protection.” All best.

  35. Jocelyn C, 29 April, 2015

    pymii.com for retailers near you

  36. Jocelyn C, 29 April, 2015

    Doug, so sorry…too quick on the trigger. LOL!

  37. Lolla N, 03 November, 2016

    Hi Cindy and every one else….
    I have been reading with much interest in relation to the issues folk have had with Triple Thick Glaze.

    Has anyone tested it’s robustness via watering it down with alcohol? (or whatever else it may be watered down with???)

    I wanted to ask though,…..

    1. I have created polymer clay beads in premo sculpey and have finished those in a foil (CD) or silver leaf outer. Sanding and Buffing isn’t really and option with these finishes.

    2. My beads are .5mm diameter roundish….

    3. Could you pls / or some of the wider community pls share with me some options for compatible glazes with PC, OR, to make the inclusions to shine in all their glory?

    4. I’ve been using a 2 part epoxy on flat pieces and that has worked a treat… not for round!

    4. I know there is Renaissance Wax Polish as mentioned in various articles by Cindy, however given the size and inclusions mixed into my beads – I would really appreciate some guidance please

    My jewelry encompasses beads on the wrist, earrings as well as pendants.

    I sincerely appreciate the feedback.

    Much thanks, Lolla

  38. Cindy Lietz, 04 November, 2016

    Hi Lolla, round beads are quite tricky to get a nice thick glaze on them. You can dip them in a polyurethane but then you have to deal with drips and if the coating is too thick, it can peel off quite easily.

    You can try brushing them but it will take several thin coatings of polyurethane to get a thick shiny coat and you still have to deal with drips and brush strokes. Although it is a total hassle, it is probably the easiest and most effective of all the methods.

    Some people like to coat with liquid clay and heat set them with a heat gun… but to be honest I found it takes forever and it never really is all that even. You could try putting on an ultra thin layer of translucent clay over the cd film and then sanding and buffing them after they have been baked.

    To tell you the truth I avoid making small super shiny round beads… they are just too much work. When I do make round beads I tumble them in a rock tumbler with a plastic substrate (do a search on tumblers to learn more) and then I wax and buff them.

    If I wanted to use a iridescent film on my beads, I would make larger either flat or pebble shaped that could either be coated in resin or a thin layer of translucent.

    Perhaps there are others here that have other advice for you?

    Good luck!

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