Video #639: Synthetic vs natural bristles makes a big difference depending on the type of finish you are using.
Topics Covered In This Video:
- I’m going to show you how to choose the right brush for adding glazes to polymer clay.
- First of all, what I’m going to do is explain to you a little bit about brushes and what are the right types.
- There are a few different kinds of brushes and shapes that you need to know about.
- It is important to know this in order to be able to choose the right brush for a specific use.
- A lot of people have problems when they are adding glazes to polymer clay.
- Issues like, streaks, brush strokes, stray brush hairs coming off… all of which can make it hard to get a nice finish on your pieces.
- Part of the reason you may have problems getting a nice clear finish when glazing, is because of the type of brush you are using.
- Most of the time when you are working with polymer clay, the finishes that you will be using are water based… there are some cases where an oil based product will work, if it has been tested for compatibility with polymer clay, like the Minwax Polyurethane (Oil Based) for example. But there are not many of those.
- There are basically two types of materials that artist brushes are made of. Synthetic bristle brushes (nylon/ plastic type material) and Natural bristle brushes (animal hair).
- When you are working with water based products you need to use a synthetic brush.
- When you are using oil based products, you need to use natural bristle brushes.
- The reason is when you use a water based product and you’re cleaning the bristles in water, the synthetic bristles repel the water and have no issues. But the natural bristles get swollen in water and get damaged and frayed.
- Oil based products need natural bristles because the oils and the solvents will ‘moisturize’ the natural bristles… whereas oils will ‘melt’ and damage the synthetic bristles.
- There are also several different shapes of brushes… each that have their own special purpose.
- There are flat brushes, round brushes, liner brushes, fans, daggers and a variety of other shapes.
- Flat wide brushes with fine bristles are perfect for laying down varnishes and glazes, because they cover more area and don’t leave brush strokes and lines on the surface.
- Coarser bristled brushes are tougher and are good for getting into crevices, and for creating texture on your work.
- Sponge brushes are to be avoided for putting on glazes, because they soak up too much finish and leave lots of streaks.
- My synthetic brushes were purchased as an inexpensive set at Michael’s.
- My brush set had white bristles, but some synthetics are in colors that look natural… but they are not natural. Just check the package to be sure.
- Brushes should always be cleaned the correct way, based on whether they are synthetic or natural.
- Wash synthetics in water with a drop of dish soap.
- Squeeze out bristles and reshape bristles with your fingers and let dry.
- Brushes with dried in acrylic paint and finishes can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol… but it is hard on them, so only do this sparingly.
- Natural brushes that have been used with oil based paints need to be cleaned in turpentine or paint thinner.
- Hope you learned more about brushes and which one to use for glazing your polymer clay projects.
- Related Article: Polymer Clay Finishes – Which One Is Best?
- Related Video: Triple Thick Gloss Glaze – Compatible or Not?
- Related Article: 6 Tips for Getting Shiny Polymer Clay Beads
- Related Video: Is It Compatible With Polymer Clay? Always Test!
- Related Video: Using Oil Based Minwax Polyurethane On Polymer Clay
Do you have any suggestions for videos on tips, techniques or products you would like to learn more about? Let me know in the comments section below!
My goal is to help you to learn quicker and easier ways to bring up the professionalism in your polymer clay art.
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Hi Cindy This is Very useful I have been using synthetic brushes & still get streaks. It may be that I need finer bristles.
Very valuable tute for me, not a painter. But, think I will be with polymer clay as soon as you release the new tute, Cindy. Cannot wait, so excited!
I was going to make a joke saying do I see polymer paintings in our future, then you said it would be an upcoming tutorial. I was totally SOL – SINGING OUT LOUD!!!! LOL! Can’t wait. Thanks for all the info on the brushes. :o)?
I have wanted to learn how to paint with polymer clay ! So, I can hardly wait for the tute.
Just a note in passing about Future. I just had to buy a bottle of Future and found some changes In Québec I suppose it’s the same elsewhere in Canada. It is now sold under the name Pledge only. There used to be the word Future underneath but it has been removed. It says more about the kind of surface it is for. The one you need is Floor care for multi surface finish.
Just mentioning it cause some of my students looked for it but could not find it anymore in the store.
Cindy thanks so much for putting together a video on paint brushes. Great information. I immediately went and checked all of mine. Too many for oils and not enough for acrylics. I didn’t even know there was a difference between the thicknesses. My mouth dropped open when you said we were going to have a tutorial on painting with polymer because I just watched one over at the Clay Adventure group and was so exciting about this technique. I will be holding my breath now waiting for yours!
Hi everybody, just discovered some exciting news (at least it is to me) :) You know I am a user of Varathane polyurothane in Gloss, Semi-Gloss and Satin that is made by Rust-0-leum. It has been extremely hard to find in either a spray can or a small container. All they had available for a lo-o-ong time was Qt. Cans. I think I have tried every product out there and I just have not found anything better as a glaze for polymer clay unless of course you cover it with a resin. Menards here in Iowa has now got it in a spray (which is good for items covered in powders, pearls etc; if you aren’t able to get the PYMII) and now in a 6″ tube of each kind so you don’t have to spend an arm and a leg for a Quart can of it. I have been using it for years and it doesn’t yellow, peel or affect the clay in any manner. It is so much easier to use in the new containers since all you have to do is squirt a little into a dish and cap the tube! No muss, no fuss, no pouring it into a smaller container! Of course with Cindy’s explanation of using the perfect brush, I think we have a winning combination. So if you check your Home Depot, Lowes, Sears or other hardware stores and they don’t have it yet, ask them when it will be available. I don’t work for the company, I just love the product.
I just realized that I didn’t come in here and thank you Dixie Ann for this great information that you shared here! Both Doug and I really appreciate all that you do for our community!
Cindy… great video and such useful information! Thanks…
Thanks, Cindy. Good advice as usual! I used to paint… until I discovered polymer clay and the brushes have been gathering dust. I am looking forward to the tutorial you mentioned. My brushes will be happy to be used again :-) I use Davinci brush soap – it’s worth buying as it keeps the brushes in tip top condition. Also a handy tip is to dry the brushes bristle end down… helps keep the brush in good order as the moisture doesn’t sit in the ferrule.
Dixie Ann – I wish I’d known this as I’ve just bought a quart of Varathane! Oh well, at least it will last the rest of my life :-)