Video #606: I’ve used Ultradome UV Resin for 4 years now and feel that it has several advantages over other products in the marketplace.
Topics Covered In This Video:
- UV Epoxy Resin, also known as Ultradome, is sold online by Terry Morris at Epoxy Jewelry (resource link is below under the video).
- Ultradome is a very cool UV Curing Resin that I have been using for several years. I love it!
- The new dark plastic bottle design, helps to prevent curing in the bottle. Long fine tip for pouring onto project with precision and control.
- With this product, you need a UV Lamp to cure the resin.
- I use a 36Watt UV Lamp (Four 9 Watt bulbs), which gives a better cure than the smaller 9 Watt (one bulb) lamps found at Michaels and on eBay.
- I show several examples of the UV resin on a variety of polymer clay pieces… Thick and thin… With holes and without… One side and double sided.
- Resin gives lots of added strength to thin polymer clay items, and to pieces with holes drilled into them.
- The beautiful, clear, glassy, domed finish of UV Epoxy Ultradome product will enhance the color and shine of your polymer clay jewelry creations.
- Resins in general, work best on flat pieces.
- UV Epoxy resis is a self doming resin. The crisper the edges of the pieces you are covering, the higher the dome you can get.
- Ultradome does not pull away from edges like other products do… such as Magic Glos and Glossy Accents.
- This product is very easy to use.
- It cures fast Cure (20 – 25 minutes in a UV Lamp).
- Easy to remove bubbles using an open flame from a hand held lighter device.
- There is no mixing with Ultradome… it is a 1 part product.
- I didn’t mention it in the video, but Ultradome UV Resin is less expensive than other UV Resins on the market.
- I used a plastic resin mat with raised bumps to lift my piece up from surface. This makes putting resin on thin pieces much easier.
- You will see how to apply the UV Epoxy resin direct from the bottle.
- Use a pin or needle tool to draw the resin to the outside edges of your piece.
- Pop any bubbles that show up by using the an open flame barbecue lighter.
- Make sure your work surface is level when curing.
- After the resin is fully applied, the cure under UV Lamp for 20 – 25 minutes.
- Clean up with rubbing alcohol.
- Make sure that UV light can always get to all resin coated surfaces. In other words, you don’t want surplus resin seeping under or behind any areas that will be shielded or hidden from the UV light.
- Make sure any glues you may have used in the construction of your jewelry item are completely dry before adding resin.
- Clean metal objects with rubbing alcohol before adding any resin.
- Related Video: UltraDome Brand UV Curing Epoxy Resin
- Related Video: Polymer Clay UV Epoxy Resin UltraDome Brand
- Related Article: UV Cure Jewelry Resin UltraDome Test Results
- Related Video: Polymer Clay Blend and Switch Technique
- Related Resource: Epoxy Jewelry Terry Morris Ultradome Supplier
Do you have any suggestions for videos on tips, techniques or products you would like to learn more about? Let me know in the comments section below!
My goal is to help you to learn quicker and easier ways to bring up the professionalism in your polymer clay art.
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Looking forward to hearing from you!
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Oh Cindy! Every time I think I can’t possibly need anything else for my clay, I watch your video and see just one more thing. This is the resin I thought I was buying when I bought ICE. So I go on to his website and lo and behold, he sells some other things that I just have to have. Those chokers! Those ribbon necklaces! Oh my! And tbis is the gal who was not going to try to sell anything. I think I might have to just to be able to buy more stuff. Now I’m going to admire the things that came in the mail today. Good job, Cindy! LOL
That’s funny Peg! You wouldn’t be the first crafter at the market selling their wares to support their hobby. I had to start a whole business to support mine! :) Have fun with your package of goodies. There is nothing more exciting than a box filled will supplies!
Well Cindy I just had to pop in here as I just ordered my second batch of UV resin from Terry. I ordered the large 8 oz. bottle my first time and believe it or not it lasted 2 yrs almost to the date because I kept it in a dark cool place in the UV container. I have tried several of the others on the market but have not found any thing comparable to the UV Dome Resin. It too is my favorite.
Hi Cindy – thank you so much for going over the UV Resin project again. You must be psychic because I was on the point of covering some beads with a final coat of something shiny and wondered if I could use Epoxy Resin for this and – hey presto! there’s your video! As the flat items you show keep the resin on the surface and not falling off the edges how would this work with round beads? Or perhaps resin is not ideal for circular objects, if this is the case what would you recommend to get the same fantastic glossy effect?
Thanks again – Marion
Hi Marion, I haven’t had much luck using resin on round objects. It is quite thin and tends to run and drip before it sets. If I figure out how to do it well, then I will certainly pass it on. Thanks for your comment! Hope you have a wonderful holiday with your family! It is going to be a creative New Year!
Thanks Cindy. My very best wishes to you and Doug for a wonderful holiday season! Don’t eat too much pudding!
Marion
Well THAT’S neat! Great video.
I assume if you were going to do a two-sided piece, you would just do one side, cure it and then flip and repeat?
That is exactly right Lena!
Have you ever noticed a problem with over curing an item? I’m making little eyeballs with magic glos and on one eye I noticed some microscopic surface cracks in the resin and I kept the eye under a uv lamp for close to 45 minutes. Piece is only 6mm wide so very small amounts of resin here. Also, you mentioned that paper should be sealed. What would you recommend for a sealer? I print tiny irises on inkjet paper and glue that onto either a resin or cured polymer clay eyeball and use uv resin to dome it out. Haven’t noticed any ill effects with uv gel right on top of printed paper but then again my results aren’t stellar and I’m still perfecting my technique. I want to give this product a try as it appears not to shrink or pull away from the edges and that might work better for my project.
Hi Joe, I haven’t noticed problems with over curing but then again I have only cured for about 20 – 30 minutes and my pieces are thicker than what you are describing. Also in regards to sealing the paper… although I do know that the paper will bleed and discolor if it is not sealed, I haven’t worked with putting paper under resin myself. Terry at Epoxy Jewelry (see link above) has all sorts of info and products that will help with that very problem. So I suggest you go there since he really is the expert on doming resin on paper. I do believe this will be a better product for you than the magic Glos and it is WAY cheaper. Do let us know what you find out!
Hi Lena…I hope so. That’s what I did. Turned out great, except the edges were dull. I just brushed on some glaze and it looks fine.
Great point about the sides Peg! Thanks for helping Lena out!
I finally caved and got some UltraDome resin last week because I was fed up with Magic Glos pulling away from the edges no matter what I did. It’s amazing!! I covered loads of thin pieces with resin on both sides and almost worked my way through the 2 oz bottle. I did find that the bubbles were more difficult to pop that other resins I’ve worked with before. Usually waving a heat gun over the pieces pops all bubbles, but that didn’t work with this. A candle lighter was better, but still took a while. It’s still worth it though, cures completely in half an hour! Really glams up my mica pieces!
Congrats Krithika! I love the UltraDome. It really is easy to work with, turns out so beautiful and is much cheaper than the other resins out there. So glad to hear you like it!
Cindy,
My daughter does nails and bought a new UV oven that she decided was too big for her to transport to her nail appointments. I know you said that a low power nail oven would work but took a lot of time. The oven she said I could have has 6-9watt UV bulbs in it. Does that make it a 54 wat oven and would that work to cure the UV resin?
Thanks
Beth
I’ll jump in here; the lamp I have is also for nails and it’s has 4 9W bulbs, so a total of 36W. The UltraDome resin hardens in about 30 minutes (I’ve left if for over an hour as well and not had any issues). I’ve used Magic Glos as well and it works great. So I’d think 54W will work just fine.
Has anyone tried re-baking UV resin coated pieces? I made some tiny pieces and covered them with resin, and I want to glue on earring posts. I’d like to use clay to secure the posts and re-bake the pieces, but I’m not sure it’s safe.
Hi Krithika, I have used UV dome for a long time and have rebaked it several times with no problems. I have actually baked the same piece twice. Just be sure it is covered completely so it has no chance of burning. You can rebake it at your normal PC temp (275) if using premo but like I said, cover it completely.
Thank you for the quick reply! That’s really good news for me. I usually do bake my clay covered, but there could be a gap if I’m using a large tile for flat pieces. I’ll make sure there’s no gap.
Hi Krithika,
Be very careful how long you re-bake light colored clays-had a beautiful clear transparent cabochon that I left in the usual 30 minutes and it came out looking more like Amber! Good luck!
I have used Ultra-Dome for over 4 yrs. It is my fav for sure. Yes, the bubbles are a pain to get rid of,BUT I allow time to do this. No problemo. In Arizona we have LOTS of Sun. So I cure outdoors.In 15 min. Pieces are hard as a rock. I even use a little round table,with a level, to make sure it is level. Works every time.Just a little FYI………..
Cool Patt! Although it is pretty sunny around here lately, normally there would be no chance of getting a decent cure in the sun around here. I should try and see if it works while we are still getting so much sun!
I just bought another bottle of UV resin, too! My first order lasted me a year and a half! Plus, shipping took only two days to get it to me! Terry offers great service! Love this product and he offers a lot more stuff! He had a great price on glue on bails, as well.
I totally agree with you Catalina!
Hi Cindy! Thank you for this tutorial about UltraDome. I’m wondering if you have done any polymer clay pieces with paint applied and then domed wth UltraDome? Polymer clay tutorials usually suggest acrylic paint. Would that be your recommendation? The paint would be in recessed areas on the surface of the clay. Thanks and happy new year!
Hi Jennifer, yes I believe I did a while back. Just make sure the paint you’re using has completely dried so it doesn’t react with the UV Resin and not properly cure. I’d let it dry at least a couple of days before putting on the resin. Of course it is always best to test, so you may want to do a sample first before committing to a large batch. Good luck! Let us know how it goes!
Finally!! You have made my YEAR Cindy. Bought a bottle of the Ultradome and am having a blast!! Thank you for your great Tutes, I’ve learned so much from you and appreciate your always bright enthusiasm about our craft -no one appreciates a “Claytech’ ( as my husband calls me) more than another Claytech!.
Thank you so much Jenifer for saying that! I am so happy that you are enjoying yourself. I love the term claytech… what a perfect way to describe our obsession! :)
I love it! Claytech, that’s great!
HI Cindy, I have been using this product since, oh gosh I think 2010. And I love it! To this point I have only used it on jewelry, earrings and pendants, which of course have minimal wear and tear. I am thinking about making some items that would used almost daily, dropped into a purse etc. Have you had any experience as to how the resin holds up to this type of use?
Thanks!
Hi Jennifer, I have used this resin on a purse charm, a keyring and a purse hanger for my own personal daily use for about 5 years now and the resin has held up better than the metal findings it was in!
Thank you, that was my first instinct, but wanted to hear from someone who had actually used it that way.
Jenny P
Hi Cindy,
Thank you so much for your tuts! I’ve been binging on them this past week.
I am new to polymer clay and I have fallen head over heels in love with it all! I hadon’t an idea pop into my head with this tutorial. I want to make beadsure using polymer clay that look similar to glass lampwork beads. Is that possible or is it too far fetched for this newbie? If it is possible could you please suggest something to get me going in the right direction?
Thank you!
No that isn’t too far fetched Amenia. Polymer clay and resin can make some very nice faux lampwork beads. Resin on round surfaces is tricky though, because it wants to drip off before it gets the chance to cure, but for flatter pieces it works very well!
Hello Cindy.
Love this video and ordered Terry UV epoxy resin and love it. It worked beautifully with pictures in metal bezels.
So I decided to try it with polymer clay(which is why I ordered).
Complete disaster! I cured it twice in the 36watt lamp(new) and the resin was still tacky. Then tried another polymer clay cab and the same thing happened. Contacted Terry Morris & he sent me a document to help me determine if it was the epoxy gone bad. It was not!! However he gave me some good advice about the clay. It has to be completely cured; completely clean of dust, fumes, lotions. He also suggested cleaning the polymer clay piece with alcohol. I have not tried the alcohol yet but will be doing this.
Have you found certain clays that are incompatible with epoxy resin? Your input is greatly appreciated, Shelia
Hi Shelia, in the picture you sent me you mentioned that you brushed the resin on. There is a good chance that the brush you were using has some residual chemicals from whatever you used it last with, that were reacting with the resin and keeping it from curing. I always use the resin on flat pieces, straight from the bottle, so I have never had an issue with it not curing. I would do a small test with a small flat baked piece and see if that fixes your problem. You said you had no issues with the paper, so I am thinking this may be what’s happening. Let us know how it goes…
I think I just had a brain storm for UV coating on beads!
Buy a rotisserie motor for grilling. They have them on Amazon for $25. You could pretty easily rig some sticks/wire to slide your beads on. I bet you could paint it on (while spinning) and then place the UV light over it. I bet it would keep it from dripping!
Clever idea Lena! Do let us know if you try this idea out. You may be on to something!
This idea reminded me of something I’d read about a long time back. Not sure how much this helps, but here’s someone else who had a similar idea.
That’s wonderful. I wasn’t the first to think of it, but now we know it would work!
Dear sir.
Pls. tell me any of indian supplier address.
Thank you,
Try a Google search.
Hi Cindy and everyone else :-D
I’m not using the UV lamp yet, but rather a 2 part mixing resin which is fine for me at this stage… however (although the 72 hrs curing time is a bit of a killer)… I have been using the hama bead board (from ikea) and am finding that some times I do overpour a little and other times i don’t…. and it turns into a mess at the base of the tray when I do.
So after scouring my garage, I found some “plastic light louvre/louver” (easily bought from the likes of home depot) left over from a deckle I made…and am using that. I find that it works better than the hama bead board.
I use an old baking tray underneath, lined with wax paper though and have sized the louvre/louver to fit in the lip of the tray to catch any drips. My rational with the wax paper is that when I use my blowtorch it doesn’t catch fire! Just smokes a little when i’ve accidentally got it too close to the paper LOL!
I’m thinking of using an old cookie cooling rack next as the ‘bars’ are narrower and perhaps the resin may be easier to take off metal than plastic? Or, am thinking of making a frame (or use an old picture frame) and screw/staple some chicken wire/fencing mesh to it as a drip frame (with intermittent supports)? …
Does anyone else have any other ideas they’d be willing to share with what works as a drip tray with their epoxy projects?
Also, is UV resin as sticky as 2 part resins?
Thanks
hi Lolla, I don’t use the 2 part resin for the simple reason that it is much easier to use the UV Ultra Dome and there is no waste. I rarely have any spillage and if by chance I should, I can just scrape it off my glass with a razor blade. The UV domes so perfectly and I always let it set for a few minutes to make sure I have no air bubbles. The best part is it’s ready to go in just 20 minutes under the UV lamp. I have tried other resins and this is my personal choice. Terry at UV Ultra Dome sets a 1 year expiration date on each bottle he sells but keeping mine in a cool dark place, it has lasted me 3 years and works perfectly each time I use it.
Dixie,
you say a cool place,,,are you talking refrigerator?
thanks
yvonne
No, not that cold. Around 68 degrees is good. For example I keep mine in a filing cabinet drawer in the lower level of my home where it is always cool. It never gets above 68 degrees there and its kept in total darkness. Hope that helps. :)
Thanks so much Dixie Ann for your reply. The Canadian exchange rate hasn’t really improved leaps and bounds across the last 20 months *sigh*, however I think I will revisit the Ultra Dome product. I’m currently using Art Resin, and whilst there is nothing wrong with the product from a 2 part epoxy setting perspective… if I can have less mess then I will give Ultra Dome a go.
Out of curiosity, and to the wider community… has anyone done a side by side comparison of a finished product using Art Resin v’s Ultra Dome?
A question for Cindy, given Canadian winters (Calgary here), would you have any recommendations on where to “store” Ultra Dome?
Thanks
Hi Lolla, I just store my Ultradome in a file cabinet drawer. It seems to be insulated enough to protect it from the highs and lows of indoor living. Just like Dixie Ann I have resin that is a couple years old that is still useable. It just gets a little thicker over time and takes a little longer to cure if it is old. I love using the UV resina and never bother with the two part stuff.
Hi Cindy,
First, I’m a huge fan of your videos, you’ve taught me so much about the world of polymer clay! Thank you for that!
I’ve been watching your videos on ultradome UV resin and I’ve decided to switch to that instead of 2 part resin. Sadly though, I can’t get the resin to cure on polymer clay:( it cures better than any other resin I’ve used on any other surfaces which is why I haven’t given up hope! I feel like I’m alone with this issue as I can’t find any info online as to where I’m going wrong.
I have a 36w UV lamp (much like the pink one in your videos). I bake my sculpey clay in a toaster oven at 275F using an oven thermometer. I’m baking tiny, thin bits of clay for at least an hour which seems like overkill to me but Terry of ultradome has suggested that I might be under baking my clay (he was a wonderful help, but did not have an answer that fixed the problem). I make sure the surface is clean using rubbing alcohol before I apply the resin. I pop it under the uv light for 25 minutes (sometimes longer in hopes that it might finish curing), and my resin comes out with a tacky surface everytime. Just enough to leave a fingerprint or easily dent it with my fingernail. Only when cured on polymer clay.
I have a small online shop that needs restocking so of course this is beyond frustrating. If you have any advice, or the time to lend some, it would be wonderfully appreciated.
Thanks for your time, and your fantastic polymer clay lessons on you tube!
Heather
Hi Heather, how fresh is your resin? I have heard people having issues if their resin was really old, though I have been able to cure even old stuff. I would also consider replacing your bulbs in your lamp. I have heard that can make a difference as well. I have had a couple of sticky pieces and I just cured them for longer (just to be sure they were set), let them sit for a day before playing with them and wiped the top with some rubbing alcohol if they had any sticky residue and they were fine. Resin can be kind of mysterious… though WAY less mystery with this one part UV cured stuff than with the two part stuff imo. Hopefully that helped.
Hi Cindy! Thanks to you MANY great tutorials and research, I have learned a lot. As well I often buy what you recommend. I bought Ultradome because of your video :o) Been loving your Facebook live episodes. I will post this there incase you can answer some questions there.
I understand if you are too busy to answer all these but here goes… I have been accumulating UV Resin Ultradome Resin questions over the last 2 years….:0)
Storage and preservation questions;
1. This is my second time buying it. I live in Thunder Bay, Northwestern Ontario, Canada and was wondering if the resin can be accidentally cured when shipped this time of year because of heat in shipping vehicles (July).
2. As well unlike the 2 oz bottle, The 8oz bottle is white, not black, does that mean it is risky to leave it out – that it could get ruined by UV rays or light absorbing through??
3. I bought the pack with the clear bottle with needle tip applicators, If I covered the bottle with duct tape to prevent light going through, could I store the resin poured in there in the fridge?
4. The fridge: The bottle says it is best stored between 40-60 F and our home is usually above 20 C (I believe 60 F is about 18C) so I store it in the refrigerator, is that a bad thing to do? What do you recommend?
5.How do I make it last past the expiry date? I am a little paranoid about not using it up fast enough. Does it last much longer?
Curing questions:
1. Can you cure in a window with intense sunshine or do the UV rays have to be directly outside?
2. I noticed some people put a dust cover if they are curing resin- is that okay? Does that affect the UV curing sun rays.?
3. You mentioned that living in Canada where you do, you would have a hard time curing by direct sun. Does that mean that even if we have a warm sunny day even where we live in Northwestern Ontario, it isn’t suitable to cure in direct open sunlight?
Thank you Cindy for any advice you can give not this topic. And thanks for all you do. Love those LIVE F/B videos!
Anita :0)
Hi Anita, I have added your questions to the list of questions for a future LIVE Q&A Broadcast. Can’t guarantee that I will be able to answer them all, but I will do my best! :)
I bought the UV epoxy resin you recommended from Terry Morris and I love it but when I add acrylic paints, glitter, alcohol inks or even powder, it won’t set up or cure. Why?
Can u get back with me soon? I have some projects to do.
Thanks so much.
Hi Linda, UV Resin cures with UV Light so if you fill it with a bunch of stuff, the light can’t get everywhere and it doesn’t cure. If you want to add inclusions to resin, you should use a 2 part resin instead.
I did try using it again thinly layering it as I added glitter, etc. and it worked. Maybe I’ll try doing some other things like this.
Thank u so much your great tutorials & advice.
Linda
That is awesome news Linda!
Cindy,
I just wanted to send a great big THANK YOU for your videos. I’ve watched many of them over the years, but recently I’ve wanted to try the UV resins. I tried the Lisa Pavelka one and was totally disillusioned with the way it kept pulling into the center and away from the edges. Horrible results. So I went online to figure out what I was doing wrong. Of course you had an excellent video with suggestions, how to tips, examples and resin comparisons. I ordered some of the resin you recommended UV Epoxy Ultradome in your video. It arrived last night and I’m so excited to try it this weekend.
Thank you Donna for the kind words! I am so happy to hear the tips helped you. I’m excited for you!!
I watched your video concerning the UV epoxy and went to the website you recommended and purchased the resin and the light.
Can’t wait to try this and hope it will ship soon.
Are you still recommending this product?
Yes Pamelia, I wholeheartedly recommend Ultradome UV Resin! I have tried some of the others out there and it is still my favorite by far!
Thank you Cindy,
I really enjoy your videos! Thank you for sharing your talents.
Pamelia
Hi,Cindy; Is this resin resistant to impacts and scratches? Is this product successful in wood and stainless steel ring surface coatings?Thanks.
As far as the durability of this resin on wood and steel, that I am not sure because I have never used it for that. But on polymer clay, I have found it to be very tough. I have a keyring with a metal bezel filled with polymer clay and domed with the Ultradome UV Resin and the resin surface is scratch free, while the metal has lost all of its chrome plating. I’d say it is pretty good, but you would need to test it for yourself!
Hi
I bought some of the uv resin you used in one of your tutorials. How long do you expose the resin under a 36w uv lamp?
Thanks
Hi Gail, I use this a lot and found that 30 to 45 minutes is best. It depends on the thickness you use. So a thin layer would only require 30 minutes while a thicker and larger layer is best at 45 minutes. I hope this helps!
I am so grateful to you Cindy for introducing me through your tutorial to Ultra Dome UV Resin. I started making polymer clay jewelry in 2019 and it has become my passion and has certainly helped me get through the pandemic. I enjoy every stage of polymer clay jewelry making from the conditioning of the clay, to learning new techniques, and even sanding working up through the grits. The only part of the process that remained frustrating for me was the resining stage. I like finishing my pieces with resin because it really brings the mica powder in the clay to life. I had tried a number of resins that seemed to ruin the hard work that had gone into the pieces before the resining stage. I admit that I am a perfectionist and like a completely professional look. I don’t actually like something to look hand-made, but that’s just me. The Magic Glos resin, that I had heard so many great things about was the most frustrating as it pulled away from the edges and you had to use multiple coats (sometimes 3) to get an even coat matching especially on the very edges. I tried every technique and was amazingly persistent and patient, but it was hit or miss with that resin. Until, thanks to you, I started using Ultra Dome. I like to do two coats, but it doesn’t pull back from the edges when curing. It is clear like glass, the air bubbles are mainly easy to get rid of with a flame close to the surface, or the rare stubborn ones I literally drag out with a toothpick. I like to cure my pieces for the same time as you, 25 minutes and then let them sit overnight before putting drilling the holes and finishing completely. I buy mine from the same man you mentioned in your tutorial and it is a reasonable price, even for me here in Vancouver Canada. Cheers!!
Thank you, Lisa, for your great comment! I know exactly what you mean in regard to the frustrations of other resins. Plus with the ease a reasonable pricing of the UltraDome… I honestly can’t figure out why more of the “players” in the polymer clay world, aren’t recommending it as well. Oh well, at least you and I know the secret! LOL (plus a few others too ;) )
Hi Cindy , thank you for your videos.it’s actually helpful.If I don’t have source for u.v light can I leave my earings with u.v resin in sun light for curing?
Hi Miriam, you can try that. Of course, sunlight isn’t always consistent, and there can be the risk of rain and dusk getting on them, so you will want them to be covered by a glass dome or something. And you may need to have them out there awhile. But if you live someplace that is often sunny, that might be an option for you. :)
Hi I just watched the Ultradome U V resin tutorial and would like to know if that resin would work on a polymer clay bowl. Rather than a flat surface. Could you brush it on? Or is there a different brand that could work?
Hi Donna, Ultradome would work on a bowl, but you will need to brush it on in very thin coats and not let it sit too long before curing because it will pool quickly due to its thin viscosity. There are resins that are thicker and would be easier to use for this type of situation, but they are really stinky. Another option would be to use a high solids polyurethane like Brite Tone. Here’s a link to that product on Amazon if you want to take a look [Affiliate Link].
Thanks, Cindy,n for the quick answer! I’ll check it out.
I have been using an indoor Diamond Varathane after sanding up to 2000 grit,
but I like the look of resin better. I’ll check out Brite tone, and invest in a UV light and the Ultradome to try it out,
Love your posts!
d