{"id":420,"date":"2008-09-12T17:05:49","date_gmt":"2008-09-13T00:05:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/?p=420"},"modified":"2013-05-21T18:43:46","modified_gmt":"2013-05-22T01:43:46","slug":"translucent-sculpey-clay-fimo-clay-premo-cernit-kato-comparison","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/translucent-sculpey-clay-fimo-clay-premo-cernit-kato-comparison\/420\/","title":{"rendered":"Translucent Sculpey Clay, Fimo Clay, Premo, Cernit, Kato | Comparison"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Translucent Clay Brand Comparison\" src=\"http:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/images\/blog\/2008-09\/12-translucent-clay-90050.jpg\" width=\"250\" height=\"188\" align=\"left\" border=\"0\" hspace=\"0\" vspace=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\">7 Things to Know About Translucent Polymer Clay for Jewelry Bead Making:<br \/>\n<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">There are so many things to learn about the different brands of polymer clays. Today&#8217;s article will focus on a special type of clay called translucent. It is<\/span><!--more--><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"> available from all the manufacturers but each brand has different properties. Here&#8217;s some comparison notes that will help you decide which one is right for your project:<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\">1)<\/span><\/strong> Premo Frost #5310 with Bleach and Studio by Sculpey Frost are the clearest of the translucent clays. They are followed by Kato Polyclay, Sculpey III, Premo #5310, Fimo Soft #014, Fimo Classic #00 and lastly Cernit #010 White Translucent.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\">2)<\/span><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"> Premo Translucent and Sculpey III are the most amber colored of the brands. Kato and Fimo clays are the whitest in color.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\">3)<\/span><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"> The tiny circular &#8216;moon&#8217; shapes you sometimes see in the layers of translucent clay are caused by a condition called &#8216;plaquing&#8217;. Fimo Clay has the most plaquing of all the brands of polymer clay. Kato clay the least. Moisture on your hands and over working the clays will cause more plaquing.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\">4)<\/span><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"> Adding tiny amounts of opaque clay will help to reduce plaquing. Think pea sized amounts with a whole block of clay. White and beige are good candidates for this technique.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\">5)<\/span><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"> Translucent clays start yellowing very easily with heat. Baking directly on a ceramic tile or metal cookie sheet will cause translucent clays to scorch quickly. You can protect the clay either by <a href=\"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/how-to-bake-sculpey-polymer-clay-toaster-oven\/128\/\">tenting<\/a> your pieces while baking or by burying them in a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/baking-beads-on-cornstarch\/87\/\">bed of cornstarch<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\">6)<\/span><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"> Translucent clay bakes up clearer when layered over raw clay, more so than over baked clay.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><strong><span style=\"font-size: large;\">7)<\/span><\/strong><\/span><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"> All translucent clays can be tinted with alcohol inks. Coat the clay with ink and let dry a minute or two, so the alcohol has time to dissipate. Then mix the clay until you have the look you want. Gloves are a good idea here unless you don&#8217;t mind colored hands!<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">There are many more things I can teach you about Fimo, Premo, Sculpey III, Cernit and Kato polymer clay&#8230; but that will have to wait for another day! Feel free to add any of your own tips or information to the comment section below.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Cindy Lietz Signature\" src=\"http:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/images\/blog\/cindy-sig.jpg\" width=\"114\" height=\"99\" align=\"right\" border=\"0\" \/><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Polymer Clay Tutor\" src=\"http:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/images\/blog\/polymer-clay-tutor.jpg\" width=\"200\" height=\"26\" align=\"right\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>7 Things to Know About Translucent Polymer Clay for Jewelry Bead Making: There are so many things to learn about the different brands&#8230;&nbsp;<span class=\"cmtcnt\">61<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[20,19],"tags":[1797,1948,1157,2740,469,1158],"class_list":["post-420","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-handling","category-supplies","tag-cracked-beads-breakage","tag-inks-dyes-pigments-powders-pearlex","tag-opaque","tag-polymer-clay-tools-supplies-organization","tag-translucent","tag-yellowing"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/420","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/7"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=420"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/420\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=420"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=420"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=420"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}