{"id":12786,"date":"2011-03-17T03:15:29","date_gmt":"2011-03-17T10:15:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/?p=12786"},"modified":"2013-05-21T18:11:34","modified_gmt":"2013-05-22T01:11:34","slug":"finishing-wax-bead-polish-polymer-clay-tutorial-video","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.beadsandbeading.com\/blog\/finishing-wax-bead-polish-polymer-clay-tutorial-video\/12786\/","title":{"rendered":"Finishing Wax as a Bead Polish | Polymer Clay Tutorial [Video]"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"WaxVid #196:<\/span> <\/span><\/strong>“Is there
\nany information about
\nusing Minwax with polymer
\nclay? I tried it on a sample
\npiece. It looks good now, but
\nwill it stay good?” ~Claycass<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

In my opinion, nothing is prettier and more professional looking than a silky smooth glass finish, on smooth-surface, polymer clay beads. And the best way to achieve this is by sanding well and buffing… no finish coatings required.<\/span><\/p>\n

But sanding and buffing is time consuming… especially with tiny round beads, or sculpted and molded ones.<\/span><\/p>\n

An alternative to getting a nice sheen on your polymer clay beads, without having to do a ton of sanding, or finishing using heavy gloss coatings (i.e. Future Floor Polish, Varathane, Sculpey Glaze<\/a>, etc.), is to use a paste wax such as Minwax<\/a>\"\".<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Is there any information about using Minwax with polymer clay? I found it at Home Depot. I liked the word “polyacrylic” on the label, so I purchased some. But I have not figured out how to speed up the time test of “does it get sticky several months later.”<\/em> I tried it on a sample piece. It looks good now, but will it stay good? I would be interested in hearing other peoples’ experience with this particular product. <\/span><\/span> ~Claycass<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

I have actually known about wax polishing for some time now, but didn’t want to talk too much about this finishing technique until I had a chance to do some testing for myself.<\/span><\/p>\n

Those of you who have been around this site for awhile, know that I only pass along quality, trusted information. So if I am going to share or demonstrate a technique, I always try to test first hand, so that I know for sure it works.<\/span><\/p>\n

When sharing ideas that I have not actually done myself, I will let you know that right up front. It is very important to me that you guys experience as much success as possible with your polymer clay journey… so being able to trust what you learn here, is key.<\/span><\/p>\n

Well…<\/em> awhile back I finally got the chance to use some paste wax as a way of polishing my polymer clay beads. Doug’s parents were downsizing and passed along some of their old cleaning supplies to me. In the box was a tin of Minwax Paste Finishing Wax. I took this as a sign that I should finally see if it would work as others have claimed, for polishing beads.<\/span><\/p>\n

And since it is always good to give a fair amount of time for any finish you use with polymer, to react with the clay if it is going to, my “test”<\/em> has been in progress for the last 6 months.<\/span><\/p>\n

Now it is finally time to share my results and pass along some tips and tricks for getting a nice glossy finish, when wax polishing your polymer clay beads. So, coming up tomorrow (Friday, March 18th, 2011) in the Vol-034-3 video at the Polymer Clay Library, I will tell all.<\/span><\/p>\n

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As a bit of an aside… I should point out that not everyone agrees when it comes to best practices, or preferred methods for finishing polymer clay beads… and that’s OK. Here are some comments that have been shared in previous posts…<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Not everyone thinks shiny is beautiful. Of course if there are fingerprints and blemishes, then sanding probably is a good idea. <\/span><\/span> ~Heha-M<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

I don’t use any wax or varnish or finish (I personally dislike such treatments, and few stand up to my stress tests anyway). I just buff them by Dremel or by hand depending on whether I want a glassy or satin finish. <\/span><\/span>~Sue-F<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

… not having to use a thick messy gloss coating is a bonus, and looks more natural I think. <\/span><\/span> ~Elizabeth-K<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

I was pleased with applying Johnson’s Wax to my beads after tumbling. I applied the wax twice and buffed with a soft microfiber cloth from the Dollar Store. They had a nice shine on them when finished. <\/span><\/span> ~Cassandra-W<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

I’ve had good luck creating clay sheets that mimic the appearance and feel of real Corinthian leather to cover altoid tins and pens. To finish, I threw on a sepia wash, wiped that down, baked again, then rubbed with Dutch floor Carnauba Wax, and buffed, buffed, buffed. <\/span><\/span> ~Jocelyn-C<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

I love the finishing of the beads …how to make them all shiny and professional looking. Thank you for providing these awesome techniques. <\/span><\/span> ~Rada-F<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Can I ask if anyone has used wax to polish beads? I have been reading about Renaissance Wax and wondered if it is any good. <\/span><\/span> ~Ritzs<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Renaissance Wax smells horrible! And it only lasts for a short while. <\/span><\/span> ~Koolbraider<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Inevitably I have to write in defense of Renaissance Wax. For a start the smell is subjective – I love the smell! Secondly, it lasts. To quote one article about the wax “When thinly applied and rubbed out to full lustre, the wax film is (and remains) glass-clear, with no discoloration either of the wax or the underlying surface.”<\/span><\/em> To quote the manufactures: “Renaissance wax polish was originally formulated in the British Museum research laboratories in the early 1950’s… The blend which emerged from (that) research was ‘designed’ for long term protection of all classes of museum exhibits. At last museum technicians and others caring for important collections could use wax polish that neither caused future conservation problems nor detracted from the intrinsic values of their treasures… The product was quickly accepted in the international museum world and has become a universally respected standard conservation material – probably the most widely specified – because of its almost unlimited uses.”<\/span><\/em> And to quote another commentator: “It has a crystalline structure much finer than totally natural waxes, a property that confers a highly efficient moisture resistance. Countless statues and monuments in city streets are now protected by Renaissance wax from weathering corrosion.”<\/span><\/em> (What you always wanted to know!) So, properties for us clayers? It provides a luster, easily (and the more coats you put on the more luster you get); it preserves if you want to use it for projects which will be outside (or indeed on windowsills and subject to light), it does not stain or darken (even white paper), and one uses such a small amount a small tin goes on forever. I love it! <\/span><\/span> ~Penny-V<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

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\n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Please Note:<\/strong><\/span> A general prerequisite for all of my weekly tutorials is that you have a good understanding of the polymer clay basics, including: conditioning clay, using a pasta machine, clay blade and other simple tools, making Skinner Blends or Teardrop Blends, baking clay, as well as sanding and finishing. If you need help in these areas, my Polymer Clay Beginners Course<\/a> will get you up to speed quickly. There is also plenty of free information on this blog. Use the search box at the top of the page to find articles on specific topics.<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Supplies & Tools: Video-034-3 Wax Polishing Your Beads:
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