Video #358: This microcrystalline polish was originally formulated at the British Museum in the 1950’s.
Topics Covered In This Video:
- Why I love Renaissance Wax so much. In fact, in this video, it kind of left me speechless for a second!
- Examples of Waxed and Un-Waxed Dragonfly Beads… Not Butterfly Beads like I said a few times in the video, despite fully knowing the difference between butterflies and dragonflies :)
- Types of projects that benefit from using a finish such as Renaissance Wax, over that of other types of glazes and finishes.
- Overview of what Renaissance Wax is, where it is made and the many ways in can be used. It’s is commonly found at high end museums for protecting just about everything!
- Seemingly expensive up front… but not so in the long run because a just little goes a very long ways.
- I purchased Mine at Otto Frei online, but you can also find it at Polymer Clay Express and on Amazon.
- I show you how simple and easy it is to apply and the gorgeous glossy finish it creates.
Question of the Day:
Would you use Renaissance Wax on your polymer clay pieces or would you prefer to use a liquid? And are you willing to pay $15 or so for a small container?
I look forward to hearing from you.
By the way, if you have a polymer clay question or challenge you’d like me to address in an upcoming video vlog, do post it in the comments below. I’d love to help you find quicker and easier ways to bring up the professionalism in your polymer clay art.
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Looking forward to hearing from you!
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I’ve been skeptical about trying this, will the finish wear off? I use varathane because the shine lasts over time.
No the finish does not wear off Tonya. All it needs is a quick buff with a soft cloth to restore the luster. It was designed to protect artifacts and fine art museum pieces. If you are interested in doing a bit more research, there is more info at the manufacturers web site… picreator.co.uk
Thank you
great info. Must look into this. thanks!
Oddly enough I ordered some from Amazon a couple of weeks ago. I am just now trying it out. ( My buffing wheel wore out )and I tried it one a PC cab that needed a finish. My gosh it is so easy to use and you are right, you just need a tiny bit. The finish just glows, not in your face, but soft and subtly . I really like it. It will last the rest of my life I’m sure.
As to weather it is worth the price. That depends on what you are doing. Buffing wears off and you are left with flat spots with no shine. Renaissane Wax can do a touch-up. I Love resin, but not all things
should be bright and shiny. So yes, it is worth the price -IF you are going to use it. It is easy to use in tight places or deep unreachable spots – perfect. You decide………….
i would def use it. how cool. will prob get some soon thanks Cindy
I have some and really like it.
I’m definitely going to get me some. Thanks Cindy!
Here in NZ i got it for $30+ so yes it is expensive, but i am so glad i did. I don’t like the “varnishes” (and I have three different ones that I have bought). The finish that the wax gives is much more natural and lovely and it feels like there is no finish on the peice at all (if that makes sense). There is one tiny thing i don’t like about it, and that it smells very strong, just like shoe polish, and if i leave the cap off for too long i get a headache. Other than that it is a wonderful product and well worth the price i paid for it.
I love this wax it’s amazing!
I purchased this wax and think its great. Much better for odd shaped items where a liquid finish would be difficult.
YES!!! I have been searching for a way to finish my rosary beads that I make with polymer clay. Everything that I’ve tried so far either changes the color (i.e. floor wax turns brown if too thick or drips) or the beads are sticky (not user friendly at all!). I recently got a small sample of this to try with my next batch of beads and now that I’ve seen your video, I am confident this is exactly what I’m looking for! Thank you SO Much for doing and trying this! In the US, I believe some of the larger chain hardware stores may carry this product.
Got to get this!
Great video as always, Cindy! Have you ever tried it over Gilder’s Paste? I have yet to find something that nicely seals the paste.
Why would you need to seal Gilder’s Paste Laurel? It has a wax in it. Just buff it once its dry and you’re good to go.
Gilder’s Paste is not permanent on polymer clay. Most of what is on the surface or high spots will eventually rub off.
Laurel, I haven’t found Gilder’s paste to rub off in my experience but if you have, that is good to know. I did just now try to add a layer of Renaissance wax on top of a piece that has had Gilder’s Paste on it for some time and it didn’t work. It lifted the Gilder’s Paste off. So I would say, No, it will not work to seal Gilder’s Paste.
Would PYM II work? LOL, I just saw Dixie Ann’s comment, so I guess it will. ;o)
hi Laurel, have you tried PYM II spray over your Gilders paste. I use 3 light spray coats and it has worked great.
I bought a jar of Renaissance Wax a few weeks ago, although I haven’t used it yet.
I’ve known of it for years but hadn’t ordered any because my favourite technique for finishing polymer clay is sanding and buffing, and I’ve never liked the more common varnishes and polishes which to me don’t look as nice or feel as nice.
However, after seeing Cindy use Renaissance Wax recently in other videos I decided to get some.
Here in Australia it’s actually not all that much more expensive than other finishes, mostly because the prices for “normal” claying supplies are very high here compared to North America, for example. I bought mine from the UK, and a 65mL jar — the same size as Cindy shows in this video — cost me AUD $16.50 including shipping.
I’ll try it with my next suitable project! :)
what site was that Sue? mine was NZ30+. when converting AUD16.50 to nz $ it still would have been cheaper for me to get it from where you got yours
Hi Sandra, I got mine a few weeks ago from Regal Castings in Auckland that I found on the internet after Cindy’s Laboradite Tutorial. Just the small 65ml jar – it was $28. Everything is more expensive here isn’t it! But I really like it and think it will last for ages.
yeah, that’s where i got mine, including tax and postage it was about $32.00 I think. Still not bad, and it will last a long time. Where in NZ are you?
Sandra
Dunedin, and you?
Thinking I might wanna try this out. Looks good to me. :)
I purchased some after your tutorial on the Faux Labradorite I believe it was. I absolutely LOVE it! And like the others said the cost is nothing compared to how much use you can get out of the can. I’ve used it for several pieces and the can barely looks used. Another great find Cindy !!!!
I use this on all of my mini-mosaics as a final finish. Gives them a nice soft glow.
I love your videos Cindy, always so informative and clearly delivered. This looks great…is it as permanent as a liquid gloss?
I would say yes Renaissance Wax is as permanent as liquid gloss… even more so imo.
Would and have used this…do not like liquid finishes! Thanks Cindy.
I’m a big fan of this wax! I use it mainly on my pens after sanding them to give them a nice glow that’s not super-shiny. I apply it by scraping a tiny bit out with the back of my thumbnail and rubbing it on with my fingers, then buffing. No waste that way.
Love this.. going to have to try this for my beads!! Thank you for sharing this!
I had been wanting to get some of the Renaissance wax but had been put off because I did not want to purchase all the different colors, I felt like it would have been too expensive. I will purchase the Micro C Renaissance wax to be able to use it on all colors of Clay etc.
Barb
I think Barb that you meant to say in the beginning of your comment that you didn’t want to buy all the colors of Gilder’s Paste rather than Renaissance Wax. You are right about the clear Micro Crystalline Renaissance being good for use on all colors though.
I have been using Ren Wax for over a year and love it. I still sand my beads and buff them to bring out the natural shine of the polymer clay and then use the wax and rebuff the item again with my dremel to give it a protectant coating and shine. I still use other coatings such as Studio’s Glossy Glaze and also Flecto’s varathane diamond glaze on some of my beads where I want a high gloss finish. The nice thing I like about the Ren wax is it doesn’t leave fingerprints after buffing it and it doesn’t attract dust. I paid around $20 for it and feel it is well worth the price. I have barely used up an 1/8th of an inch of wax after using it for a year or so. It has a long shelf life and I keep the little can along with a polishing rag in a little plastic bag and store it in a drawer. Cindy, I would love to see a tutorial on making rings either with ring blanks or preferably with some kind of wire design and adding PC adornments, gemstones or whatever Ideas you can come up with. I like the kind you can interchange different elements with.
That is excellent to hear Dixie Ann that you have found Ren Wax to be worth the price you paid for it! In regards to the ring tute request, have you watched the Wire Wrapped Coin Bead Tutorial? Would that work for you? If not, I’ll add a new ring request to the list and see what I can come up with.
I did see the tutorial and actually made the ring with copper wire and used one of the flat round faux stones. I had forgotten about that one. Have you seen the rolls of aluminum flat wire in Michaels that’s about 1/4″ wide. It comes in copper aluminum and brass colors. It would make nice bands for rings. (My thoughts when I saw it.) but I wouldn’t know where to start. It looks like it would curl easily.
Yes I saw that wire the other day Dixie Ann. Will have to pick some up and see what I can do with it. Thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks Cindy, Loved the tute and? that you share all you wonderful finds with everyone. I am going to go price it on the internet now and yes I will buy a container. I think it will more than worth the money. I do have another question about PYM II. I heard that they now have it in high gloss finish. Do you know if this is true and have you tried it yet? Thanks again.
Hi Peggy, I? hadn’t heard about a high gloss version of PYMII. That sounds interesting. Will have to ask Donna about that. Glad you loved the tute!
I’ve finally cleared off a spot on what used to be my dining room table to sit down and sand my beads. I’ve been putting some extra effort into sanding, and figured out a way to use my dremel for polishing. Wow, what a difference. I used to use Future floor wax, and would be sad to lose that smooth feeling of the bead. Also, to be left with some streaks on my masterpiece (grin :o) after all that hard work was disappointing. Now that I’ve seen what buffing can do I’M NEVER GOING BACK, LOL! My next step will be to invest in some micro mesh pads and the Ren wax because I want to take my work to the next level.
Hi, Michelle!
Would you share how you use your Dremel for polishing? I had bought mine for this purpose, but was not satisfied and so don’t use it for that. Would appreciate it.
You’ll LOVE, LOVE, LOVE the Renaissance Wax if you get it. The feeling of the finish is wonderful!
Thanks!
Andrea
I will be buying this. Price doesn’t seem to be an issue. Looks like a little will go a long way.
Cindy, just to say, got some, tried it, wow!! A big thanks to you :)
I am looking up this product right now! I NEED some! I’ve been using liquid polymer clay and it is the part of working with clay I dislike the most. This product seems to be perfect! No more painting on, no more re-baking, no more heating up to a shine with my heat gun…..just wipe on – wipe off…just like the karate kid…lol. Thanks!!!
Have you used Dorlan’s Wax? I like that one and I have never used the Renaissance Wax. If you have is there a difference?
Niki – I have never tried Dorlan’s Wax but it looks like and interesting product. I see it is Beeswax based, which would explain why it smells so nice. Renaissance Wax is man-made, which according to their flyer has benefits over the natural waxes that “…contained acids which, in time, could spoil original finishes on national historic collections of furniture”… etc. Other than that I would have to try it to see what other differences they have. If you do end up getting the Renaissance Wax, I’d be interested in hearing about how you would compare the two.
Niki – because you use mineral spirits or turpentine, to thin , I wonder if, in time, Dorans Wax would break down.Turp and mineral spirits are a NO-NO with polymer clay. Just a thought – IMHO
Just ordered some :) Thanks Cindy!
Great little mini tute Cindy…i have a question: what is the difference between the Renissance wax and the Minwax Finishing Paste Wax?
Hi Laura, overall I find the Renaissance Wax to be a much better product than the Minwax, though I did like the Minwax when I used it. The Ren Wax is totally clear, not yellow like the Minwax and it not only gives a higher shine, the surface is smoother and harder once dry. You’ll feel the difference in your hands. The Minwax has more ‘drag’ to it, like a waxy finish, where the Ren Wax feels more glassy and smooth. If that makes sense to you. Also the Ren Wax was designed for use in Museums so you know the quality is extremely high, that it is acid free and that it is an excellent UV Protector. I don’t know if the Minwax product can say the same. Hope that helps to clear things up.
Thanks Cindy…sounds like the Ren Wax is the wy to go :)
I LOVE Renaissance wax!!! I used it on all of my polyclay creations. Thanks for the tip, Cindy!
Like the video and I have bought some to try on my pieces and I think that it looks easier and less mess. thanks again for the tips and I loved the butterflies and dragonfly beads very cute, will have to make them. From the other Cindy
Thanks, Cindy, for sharing where to find Renaissance Wax. Can’t wait to get some as most of my clay projects are difficult to sand. I so appreciate your cheery voice and all the valuable information you share.
Cindy, do you see much difference between the Renaissance paste and the Minwax Paste you demoed about a year back? I’m just debating about going out and buying the paste if it gives the same results as the Minwax.
Helene
Hi Helene, I just answered the same question for Laura Reed up above. Hope that answers your question.
Great product, I am ordering mine now. Here’s my question though … as a newbie, I’ve been sanding, buffing and using Future on my pieces. Am I overdoing it? Do I need to do all that sanding and buffing if I’m going to apply a finish?
Hi Michele, Well, my advice is to sand and buff where you can. Then add the Renaissance Wax where you want extra shine on top of the sanding and buffing, or in cases where you can’t sand. I wouldn’t even bother with the Future Finish anymore. Ren Wax looks more professional and is way easier to apply than Future is. So even though I used to recommend the use of Future, I have now moved on to something much better. I think you will know exactly what I mean, when your Renaissance Wax arrives! :)
BTW, I am VERY happy to hear that you are focusing on making the best quality product you can, even though you are new to the medium. That attitude will have you excelling very quickly!
Sanding and buffing are normally the most important aspects of finishing polymer clay properly, Michele!
Of course, there are some types of pieces that you can’t sand or buff, for instance when there’s a surface finish that would be removed, or when they are too intricately shaped for normal sanding or buffing.
But other than that, I’d say: ALWAYS sand and buff properly. And then if you feel it’s necessary, or if you want to, apply a finish.
Sorry if that’s not the answer you were hoping for! ;)
Sue, thanks for the advice … no need for sorry, I actually like the way the sanding and buffing finish off my projects, and have even convinced myself it’s a sutle form of exercise for the arms. LOL!
I’ve enjoyed using Renaissance Wax for some time…thanks for your video. :)
Thanks Cindy
When you apply it to a gold-leaf-covered piece does it remove some of the gold leaf due to rubbing and buffing?
Varda
If your gold/silver leaf is stuck well to your piece? then putting on the wax is no problem. If it is something loose like chalk, or a wax based product like Gilder’s paste, you may find the Renaissance wax will remove the color rather than sit on top. Other than that it pretty much works on everything.
I’ve been waiting for this. I will buy. The liquid is such a hassle for rings and beads. Thank you.
Loved the tute! You have such practical tips. Could you please tell us if this wax has an odor at all? I am chemically sensitive to fragrances. Thanks!
Yes it has an odor. Reminds me of shoe polish. It doesn’t bother? me at all, but I have heard it bothers others. I don’t know if you saw my video on my first impressions of Kato Polyclay, but I had a real hard time with that smell and others didn’t. I guess it really depends on the person and the type of chemical, as to whether it will bother you or not. I wish I could send the smell over the net for you, to see if it has any effect on you or not… but of course that is impossible! :)
Brilliant stuff from Great Britain. My brother worked in a fine art gallery in London way back when it first became available.They have used this amazing Renaissance Wax from that time
(Don’t think it was the same pot though). Tee Hee, but it sure lasts an age and as Cindy says it feels so natural so smooth and silky.The initial cost seems expensive but this is a wonderful product so you would expect to pay a little more, but well worth it………cheers xx…………..
Cindy, I’ve been curious? about Renaissance Wax for some time, but didn’t want to spend the money on an unknown result. Your video shows me everything I need to know! Yes, now I know I’d spend the money on this product. It seems so much easier than liquids, which drip and take so much time drying and curing.
Hi Cindy, this is great and I can even get Renaissance Wax, here in Australia.
Yes I would use it as against the liquid varnishes as it looks easy to use and no mess.
Thanks for the tut. Love seeing you in person.
XXX
I would definitely prefer using the Renaissance Wax. I am new to polymer clay and am glad I found you! Thanks. I’m looking forward to learning.
Cindy have you ever heard of this clay artist (Lynne Anne Schwarzenburg) and her color blending method? She is suppose to do color blending right out of the package and also has a method of eliminating most sanding of pieces. I ran across this website looking for Lisa Pavelka’s Foils and was intrigued by the description of her class in Chicago. Let me know what you think.
Yes I am familiar with Lynne Anne, though I haven’t met her or taken any of her tutorials. What I think she means by ‘color mixing right from the package’ is that she uses techniques such as Skinner Blends to make colors rather than color recipes. She may also use something along the lines of what I call color shifts, to get more complex colors, but I am only guessing on that. The eliminating of sanding would be partially due to the style of beads and pieces she makes (as you are aware, some of the beads we have made don’t require sanding) but could also be some special thing she does as well. I agree her descriptions are very intriguing and make you want to learn what she is teaching. I don’t know her personally, but she seems to have a good reputation in the industry and does very nice work.
I have tried ren wax and it is easy to use and I like the less mess and he shine. My hubby Duane could tell the difference and likes it too. Can you use a buffing wheel on it without taking off the wax? Or is that to much buffing for the ren wax?
Thanks the Other Cindy
Sure you can use a buffing wheel on the wax Cindy. I would buff before the wax. Then add a coat of wax, let dry and buff again. You’ll get the highest shine that way.
I would . . . and did pay even more for a small container. I found out Rockler’s (a woodworking supply chain) carries it and there is one close to where I am now. It was US$23, but I felt better about it with the reports that it lasts a long time. (And from what I’ve read and found myself the price varies quite a bit.) I also discovered they carry micro-mesh pads and I picked up a package of the 3″x4″ set. So I scritched two dogs with one hand. (The original saying is a bit mean). And I got 20% off the pads for joining their mailing list.
I probably could have gotten it cheaper online but I could not wait. I am on a business trip and happened to bring some beads to sand during down time. (Much easier to bring beads and sandpaper than fresh clay, a pasta machine, and toaster oven! Although I guess I could get fresh clay at the local Michaels. ;-) )
I have been reluctant to use many of the finishing products used by other clayers. I am generally not a big fan of high gloss anyway; for my photography I prefer printing on matte or semi-gloss papers. And these various products seemed more work than I wanted for a look that I probably would not like. Plus, my photography has made me very conscious of the archival stability of products in contact with my photos or negatives and I worried about the (non) archival properties of the various finishes used on polymer clay. And as for buffing to get a shine, I’ve put off getting a Dremel or a bench lathe because I think I want to get a JoolTool instead. Hand buffing is okay but not great. So I was really anxious to try RW when I saw that it addressed my issues.
So I’ve tried it on one of the beads I have with me that I had sanded and buffed by hand. When I first applied it I wasn’t sure it made a difference but then it dried and I buffed it and saw a nice subtle shine. It was even more obvious when I compared it to an unwaxed bead. My bead has both translucent and metallic clay in the design and I think they really benefit – the metallic copper has extra sparkle. So now I’m a fan, too!
Thank you Bertha for coming and giving us your review as well! I am pleased you are liking the results.
I take it the ‘scratching two dogs with one hand’ version is an adaptation of the ‘two birds one stone’ saying? I hadn’t thought about it, but you’re right it is mean! (So are a lot of the old sayings… like the one my Dad used to say… There’s more than one way to skin a cat! Yikes! Poor cats!)
I liked hearing about your photography and the importance of archival stability. The Renaissance Wax is not only acid free but it also has UV inhibitors in it to protect from light as well. Which is another bonus for the product in my books.
Thanks again for your input and participation in the comments. It makes for a much more interesting and robust learning environment for us all!
Thanks, Cindy! Yes, when you actually think about some old adages it seems the people who started them held the “glass half empty” view of life. But the company I work for is in another state and when I travel there I stay with the owners who are old and great friends. They have a houseful of dogs who love the way Auntie Bertha gives scritches but I don’t have enough hands. So if I can scritch two heads with one hand everyone’s happy. ;-)
Yes, I am particularly suspicious of some “miracle” chemicals first formulated mid-century that could not be tested using the equipment we have today. Remember the photo albums popular in the 70’s and 80’s with that sticky cardstock pages with plastic sheet covers? I found many of those disintegrating and ruining photos in the 90’s. Some something with decades worth of real life use on some of the world’s most important treasures (i.e. in the British Museum) should relieve one worry about using a finishing product.
Hi Cindy
I am off to Atlanta packed and ready to go tues am. Synergy 3 I am very excited to learn everything I can while there. I will report back to you all as to what I learned.
The other cindy
Well, I’m pretty jealous. ;-) Hope you’re having a great time. Can’t wait to hear your report.
Hi Cindy – LOVED the video and immediately ordered it. Just got it today and aside from the smell I must say that it rocks. I tried it on a couple of pieces and really like the smooth feel it gives them. Many thanks for the suggestion :)
Thanks Cindy! I have been looking for? something like this. I don’t like the waiting and dripping problems I have with liquids. I have to hover over any project I use liquids on and it is frustrating. I’m not good at watching paint dry either. I am going to purchase this right away, can’t wait to get it and try it out. Thank you so much for sharing this, I never would have thought to use a wax.
I like the finish of the wax but the smell really gets me.
I really like it but I can´t find it here in México :(
I guess I like that smell….. sort of gets you high LOLOL
Yeah, the smell is bad but when dry and buffed it has no odor.
Hi, Cindy and All!
I had this product on my “Maybe” list and when Cindy did the tutorial, I decided to go ahead and order it from Amazon. It was $16.95 for the little jar, $26 for the larger, and I decided to buy the little one first. As I have been doing major, major spring cleaning, I had already started to put order to my beading/clay inventories and my personal jewelry stash as well. I do this every 3 or 4 years. I clean everything, sort, repair, weed out, give away, reorganize. Since I have been collecting (hoarding!) since I was a wee little tot, the collection (hoard!) is considerable. I would say 95% of my personal jewelry, other than clay, is sterling with semi-precious stones and I use sterling and gold-filled findings for the polymer. There are items to be repaired, which I never get around to, and unrepairable items I’ve kept because I’m sure I’ll ‘do something’ with them someday. When I found polymer last year, I had high hopes of using some of these in my projects but then decided not to because of the tarnish problem. I could not see using harsh tarnish removers on the clay items without worrying about it. As you can see, this is a formidable project which I don’t generally relish doing but which needs to be done just like people had to polish their silverware once in a while when it used to be silver and not stainless.
While I was waiting for the Renaissance Wax, I went to the store and, on a whim, purchased a tarnish remover I had not seen before by a company named ‘Weiman’. It is indicated for silver and copper, has a consistency a little heavier than water, three ingredients the first of which is citric acid, and a very, very slight sulfuric scent. Cost is $6.95 for 16 oz.. Directions are to dip items for 3-5 seconds. My first thought was “Yeah, right…”. Well, it WAS indeed right! I was completely bowled over. The reaction was just like in the old TV commercials where the tarnish disappears right before your eyes. Only, this REALLY worked! I could not believe it! The directions say not to use on stones. But I got so enthused I thought “Let’s try!. The upshot is I tried it on EVERYTHING I own. I first used, small beads of semi-precious, etc.., but I grew so confident of it that I ended up doing it all, including brass. This included all the stones such as crystals, amber, fresh-water pearls, cultured pearls, ivory (three VERY old pieces), my bear’s claw (Native American and found in the wild), the rediculously built-up Mexican silver, the very intricate Bali silver, the infuriating wire-wrapped stones…I mean EVERYTHING! The only adverse reactions I had were on the malachite, malachite-azurite, and coral. They lost their shine but the Renaissance put it back with two coats.
After letting everything dry thoroughly for several hours, I applied the Renaissance and was bowled over yet again! It is all just as Cindy showed. It goes on and buffs practically by itself. There is no effort at all required. The shine reminds me of of the hand applied French polished used on furniture. If you have seen French polish you know it is a rich, warm, deep luster rather than a garish shine. Everything looks stupendous. You should see the amber! I even did the ear wires because the product is totally safe on skin and protects the metals from its acids and oils.
And on the polymer it is unbelievable! Lately, I have also gotten very enthusiastic at Cindy’s urging on the sanding and buffing of beads. But I also have not been very happy about sealing with the liquid sealers and so have not sealed at all, unless it’s a piece with mica powders, leaf, etc.. I am so incredibly happy this product does so many things. I urge you all to read the info on it because it is very enlightening. I especially enjoyed learning about how it is used to protect professional instruments.
As you can see, I am totally excited about both these products. In the past, I have spent enormous amounts of time, labor and money and at the end of the project not been very satisfied with the results. This time I spent a weekend not only cleaning and buffing but protecting and repairing items I thought I would never use and knowing that know I can use the non-repairable items for my clay work. I did it all with two little rectangles of old dishtowels (I use flour sack ones), half a bottle of Weiman’s and about a 1/8 INCH (!) of Renaissance Polish (it says to use sparingly and it means it.) Total of project at the high end—maybe $8.00! And my items will be protected from further tarnish so I will probably not have to do this again for some time. I feel like I have a totally new jewelry collection!
If you sell your polymer items and other jewelry besides, these items can prove to be invaluable. Your display will look absolutely gorgeous—fresh and pristine! It will also protect your items from the wear and tear of all the handling for shows, etc.. I strongly urge you all to try these two products. My only regret is that I did not come find them sooner!
Thank you, Cindy, as always for getting me over the fence on the Renaissance. I have definitely gotten my money’s worth from all your tutorials on this product alone!
Hope you are all well and love to all! Happy claying! I enjoy you all so much!
Andrea
P.S.
The feeling of the sanded and polished polymer with the Ren wax is absolutely DELICIOUS!
Andrea you have no idea how happy I was to read this comment!
You know every once in a while you will come across a product that solves a whole bunch of problems in one fall swoop! And to think this one has been around the whole time and I didn’t know about it!! From now on I am going to tell everyone to pour their Future Floor Wax on the floor and use Ren Wax on their beads instead! LOL
I will have to keep an eye out for that Weiman’s Tarnish Remover. Sounds promising. I’m always adding tarnishes and patina’s so I wouldn’t need it too often, but I can see how it would take the effort out of having to clean metals the regular way.
Thanks again for your comment! You are such a great artist in your own right, and it is humbling to see that you find value in what I can show/teach you. It’s lovely to have you in our happy clay family!
Have you tried Conservator’s Wax? It is made in Canada and sounds similiar to Renaissance Wax. It is “a highly refined blend of microcrystalline waxes (petrochemical based) used by museums, art galleries and conservators to protect against airborne pollutants & finger marks, & is moisture resistance.
“It is a clear, light wax used on finished woods, metals, ceramics, marble, leather, gilding, photographs and even paper. It will also gently remove grime and wax build-up.” Lee Valley Tools
Sounds like pretty much like the same product Sylvia. Maybe it is a copy cat product or something that they are repack aging for Ren Wax? Who knows. It might be worth trying out. If you do try it. Let us know, OK? Now you’ve got me curious!
I stopped by to comment about the Lee Valley brand wax, Cindy. I was pleased to see Sylvia noticed it as well. I’ve ordered a bottle ($12.50 CN for a big 125 ml size) as well as new MicroMesh pads. This time I am purchasing the 5″ round pads with loop backing; they are designed for a power sander, but I plan on designing a Velcro-covered surface and attaching them. I’ve had unsatisfactory results with the smaller pads, due mainly to weakness and poor circulation in my hands. I’ll let you know my results.
P.S. Lee Valley.com has a FREE SHIPPING EVENT finishing Monday, March 25, 2013.
I hope that Lee Valley still has the 5 inch round pads! I love the micromesh pads, but I just get going with the little guys and run out of room! I actually (yes, I know, I’m weird) find that sitting with those pads and sanding my way through them is a very Zen time for me. I LOVE feeling the surface getting smoother and smoother. Wet/dry sandpaper just drove me crazy/
Monique, did you ever come up with a Velcro surface to hold the 5 inch round pads? I’d love an explanation of what you did, if you did.
I\m going to go and stalk Lee Valley’s web site now, checking for those bigger pads.
Happy claying, all!
Hi, All!
This is my updated report on Renaissance Wax…aka the latest chapter on “Andrea and Ren’s Shiny New Love Affair”…
It has been a week since I told you guys that I cleaned my cast sterling/semi precious stone jewelry with the Weinman and polished it with the Ren Wax. I have been wearing my two tennis bracelets since then and have not taken them off at all (as I always used to do). The older of them was pitiful and I hadn’t worn it for years. It was grey/black, looking like you average piece of 600 grit sandpaper. If you’ve seen tennis bracelets, you know they are very pretty but have an awful lot of nooks and crannies. No matter what I did I could not get this one cleaned…not even a little. Believe me I have tried most everything, including toothpaste, which was actually my last favorite because at least it was inexpensive. I had looked into the sonic cleaners but you can’t use it with stones so what use is that to me? Anyway, the Weiman’s Tarnish Remover cleaned my bracelet in about 5-8 seconds. And I mean CLEAN. Every single nook and cranny that had been irritating me for years. After that, I polished it as best I could with the Ren Wax. Both bracelets look as beautiful today as last week when I cleaned them. And so does all the rest of the jewelry. I have done daily inspections of all subjects.
I have now moved on to my beaded necklaces, etc., which I use sterling and gold-filled findings on. I dip the entire necklaces in the Weiman’s and all the stones and findings/sterling beads come out beautiful in a few seconds. All those pesky little black rims that build up around the bead holes from the stringing wire are totally GONE. And I polish with the Ren Wax and it is DONE!!!
I was on the Ren Wax site and, as I told you, found it very interesting. They explain about marble and how it has a special finish on it but can be scratched very easily. It also stains very easily and won’t clean up. Since I use a 18″ x 24” marble pastry board for my polymer and it’s relatively new and has no stains on it yet, I decided to go ahead and protect that, too. My work table is a conference table with the standard light wood laminate finish. I always keep it clean but it shows the polymer fingerprints something awful. So I did that, too. Since I clean it off with alcohol to get the polymer off, it will protect it. And it shows not prints at all.
Sylvia, I looked up the Conservator’s and agree with Cindy. Maybe same thing with label for ‘The Masses’. Thanks for the great tip!
Couple things with the Ren Wax:
As Cindy said in the tutorial, it gives you UV protection, which is absolutely awesome.
On the site and the brochure it says that if you ever need to take it off, you can do so with white spirits. White spirits, folks, is TURPENTINE. Which means that if you’re worried about your work being protected…I guess so. And for a very long time.
Also, as Cindy said, basically you apply and polish. I noticed I was subconsciously letting it dry off a few minutes like some of the other waxes. That only made it harder to polish. If you wait a few SECONDS, all you have to do is wipe. No muscle needed. And as she mentioned, if you want higher shine, do a first coat, leave it five minutes or so, then do a second. The coats have to be LIGHT…really light. You do as many as you need til you get the shine you want.
As for the smell, I don’t much notice it. And other finishes have smells, too. So this is really a personal thing I guess everybody will have to decide on.
I have done all this and have used almost a fifth of the little container and half of an old dishcloth for wiping. I think that’s pretty economical. I will do my sculpts next.
Okay. I think that’s it. And I know…I’m one of those ALPHABET people…type-A or something?—about the cleaning and the neatness and everything else and I’ve heard it plenty so don’t even bother to think you’re being original by mentioning it. It’s a hard personality, but SOMEBODY has to be one. Otherwise where would the REST of the alphabet be? LOL
All I can tell you is everything looks AWESOME and I feel I have brand new items, all around. And I have saved myself tons of money and time and frustration AGAIN!
Thank you, CINDY! again!
And thanks to you All! You are pretty awesome yourselves…
Andrea
Oh, Cindy!
I am laughing so hard because I just noticed your headline at the top of the page:
ANDREA P. TELLS ALL
That sounds like me…Miss Bigmouth.
How did you GUESS?
Absolutely love you!
LOLOLOLOL
Andrea P.
I know, isn’t Doug funny!! Its like he’s writing for a tabloid or something! LOL
Thanks again for all your wonderful comments! Love having you around… chatty and all! :)
Oh, so it’s Doug, is it? LOLOL
Well, tell him to watch out for the SUGRU. I’m almost ready to report.
I will play role of editor on myself and be brief (!).
Sounds like Rosalind Russel and Cary Grant in “His Girl Friday”
Love ya!
As expected -what glowing testimonials! Isn’t it exciting to find a REALLY GOOD product? Will have to look for Weimans! I HATE POLISHING silver and stuff. That was my major job as a child. And I hated it then! To dip and have all that gook go away would be wonderful. Sure hope I can find it!
Love that so many peeps have input here. Polymer Clayers ROCK!!!!!!!!!!
Yes, Pat, you are right!
Polymer Clayers Rock n’ Roll!!!
And you will love the Weiman’s.
Hi Everyone,
I’m a beginner to use Polymer Clay. I enjoy working with polymer clay. I’ve done some things and I’m wanting to do a transfer of a photo to polymer clay. Do you or anyone have any suggestions on transferring the photo to polymer clay. Would it be best to just test with either store bought transfer paper or use parchment paper? What do you all suggest? I am open to any suggestions any one has.
If I use parchment paper, what side do I put the photo on when I run it through the inkjet printer?
Again,
Everyone comments to me are commended and thankful for the help and advice given to me.
Thanks you,
Ron :-)
Hi Ron, I’d also like to welcome you to our community! You made a good choice coming into polymer clay! It certainly is a fun medium to work in with endless possibilities for creativity.
I prefer to do my image transfers a little differently than Andrea does. Same toner copies (aka laser printer or photocopy not inkjet printed images) just a slightly different approach to transferring the image to the clay.
If you learn well through video, I have two different tutorials on image transfers that you may enjoy.
Image Transfer To Polymer Clay – Tutorial Using Toner Based Copies
and
Hand Tinted Photo Transfers | Polymer Clay Tutorial
Although I did test using parchment paper, it can be a little tricky to find the right paper and you may have some trouble with the printer jamming. Do a quick search at the top of the page for parchment paper transfers and you can read the article if you like.
Good luck!
PS: Thank you Andrea for sharing your method with Ron. I appreciate your help!
Hi, Ron!
So glad you are here! You are going to enjoy it!
I have done transfers to polymer in a very easy way. Take the photo to a printer and have them do it the size you need, but make sure it is done on a TONER printer. Then, sheet white or light colored clay at your thickest setting on your pasta machine. Lay the clay perfectly flat on whatever baking surface you will be curing it in. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! You do not want to be moving the clay around and shifting your image. Cut the copy of your photo however you want it to be transferred on the clay. Put the copy of the photo which you cut out face down on the white clay, making sure there are no air bubbles in between and that it lays perfectly flat against the clay. Then burnish the back of the paper VERY thoroughly using a burnishing tool or something similar, like a tongue depressor or the dull edge of a dinner knife. The point is to rub hard enough to make sure the paper stays on the clay but not gouge it or indent it in any way. This transfers the toner to the clay, so make sure your paper touches the clay at all spots otherwise you will not get the transfer where it is not touching the paper. DO NOT MOVE THE CLAY OR PAPER AROUND! Cure for 5 minutes, remove from the oven, carefully lift the paper from the clay and return the clay to the oven and continue curing it for the rest of the required time. That’s it!
The only drawback is that your photo will be reversed, so any writing will not be readable. But I know that some printers have the capability if you need it. Mine have come out excellently as long as I make sure not to move anything around and I burnish well. You will notice that the paper will get a greasy look as you burnish. This has always indicated to me that it is ready.
I am sure Cindy has tons of advice for you on this and all the wonderful other members, too. This is the only way I’ve ever done it and, as I said, it works very well and it is simple and not messy. But if something is unclear, please don’t hesitate to ask me.
However you decide to do it, good luck and looking forward to seeing your project.
Have fun!
Andrea
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for the tutorial :-) I bought the wax but not yet arrived.
I have a question: I made beads: I cut about 4 circles from white polymer clay and colored each one with ink (from a permanent marker) and then I mixed them together a little bit, not much mixing and then I made beads (which are so beautiful), my question is about if I can sand them and buff without that the ink will be removed? I prefer to do it in the tumbler but I am afraid the color will be removed, do you know Cindy if the color will be removed? maybe it will be better to apply only the wax? I tried to look for information about it and didn’t find.
Thanks
Hila
Hi Hila, if the ink was mixed INTO the clay and is not ON Top of the clay, then you should be able to sand it no problem. If it is just on the outside then you will need to add a finish of some sort, or it will rub off. You would have to test the finish first. I am not sure if Ren Wax will go over Sharpie or not… I haven’t tried it yet. I do know that PYMII does though, so you could use that if you’re worried. Just type ‘pymii’ into the search box at the top of the page and several articles and tutorials will be listed for you, should you want to learn more. Do come back and let us know how it goes for you!
Thanks Cindy :-)
Its all good, iv tried it with the tumbler and its fine (by the way my husband made for me a homemade tumbler from a drill, I saw a video on youtube someone did something like that and iv asked my husband to do for me and so he did, so if any one dont have the money to invest in tumbler its great idea)
So the beads are fine, the ink is not coming off, iv asked you cause iv tried a bit and it looks like it coming off but it didnt.
Also I dont think I can find the pymii in Israel and cant order from USA cause its have a hazardous in it but I dont see any problem with the wax or I can be wrong.
:-) Thansk again
Hila
Okay, ya’ll convinced me to buy Renaissance Wax! Hey, are ya’ll paid for endorsements? LOL.
That is the plan… for the product manufacturers to start sponsoring the promotional activity we do for them here at the PcT community. At this stage, however, the cart is way ahead of the horse, so to speak.
Public comments like yours, Becky, do help a lot. The more everyone is able to help get the word out to the manufacturers, about how this site is influencing your buying activities… the better. So… Cindy and I thank you for the shout out :-)
Got it and will keep doing it.
Do you know if Reneissance gets feedback from Amazon that we bought it thru the link from PCT?
Hi Andrea… Amazon only passes along contact information for the product buyer to a vendor who sells the Renaissance Wax. So the answer is no, they would not know that we referred the sale (unfortunately).
That’s a great plan, Doug!
There are tons of manufacturers out there who should be aware that you are influencing bunches of folk to buy their goods, and for good reasons…you have done so much testing of the products and that leads to us all having confidence in a new product (or an “old” one we may never have heard of) and so much more willing to buy, and then go back and buy again when we see the results for ourselves!
Truly, the day I stumbled upon your website was pretty much the luckiest day of my life. I have learned so much, and Cindy and you demonstrate and record everything so well that it is hard to fail on any technique.
My thanks to you both, again!
Who gave you the number of my Swiss bank account?! Grrr!
You have a Swiss Bank Account too !!!??? LOL
Hey!!! You never told me you have a Swiss Bank Account Doug! Is there something you need to tell me? Hmmmm? ;)
Too bad about the Renaissance referral thru Amazon, Doug.
…we ALL THREE could have deferred the booty to our respective accounts. There goes the trip to Florence…sigh!
Hello, Cindy, just have a question for you. I have made comments on finishes in the past and work with bread clay, so you may remember me. Just wondering if this wax would be waterproof like Varathane? Since I work with bread, water can re-hydrate it if the finish is not waterproof. This sounds like the perfect solution, since it obviously won’t yellow or the museums wouldn’t use it and it seems so easy, but the only thing for me would be the problem with it being waterproof or not. Thanks.
Hi Linda! My first love was bread dough, it kept me thoroughly occupied until the nieces discovered polymer clay. Christmas ornaments, Easter, family caricatures of my sister’s wedding party…you name it, I made it from bread dough. My mom’s mom declared my nativity interpretation “heresy.” She was very devout, and my figurines sagged a little too much for her taste, lol
Always found the secret to success was to slow bake and dry it thoroughly, then, varnish the bedevil out of both sides of it so it kept the mildew and softening at bay. My favorite was repeated dips in marine spar varnish. If you had a good clear day, and it dried properly, the stuff lasts forever.
From what I know of Rennaissance Wax, I don’t think it will give you the same level of protection from moisture that you would get from another total coating.
By all means though, be a mad scientist and experiment. If the wax works, come back and let us know, K?
Joyce, maybe we are talking about two different things. I don’t have to bake my bread clay. It is made with bread slices and glue and air dries to hardness, and there is no problem with mold at all. The glue keeps it all at bay. I make jewelry from it. I dry till it is hard, and then sand till smooth, then paint and glaze with Varathane. Just wondering about the wax, since it seems like an easier approach. It says it is a sealant and Cindy says it gets hard so just wondering. I have an Etsy store called RollinInTheDough, if you would like to see some of my pieces. Thanks for your comments.
Linda, lol, yep…wrong dough. I used the salt, flour, and water mixture and baked it. The bread and glue method is one I never tried, but, boy, after looking at the lovely items for sale at your etsy store, I might give it a go. Apologize for the inaccuracy.
Folks, go see her stuff, it’s beautiful!
.
Thanks, Joselyn, sorry about the wrong name before. :-)
Dear Cindy,
I am learning so much helpful information from your videos. I have my new rock tumbler going and will be opening up the first batch of small light colored river pebbles I picked up from around the house and barn. I insist that they should be smooth before they touch anything I have made.
My beads are so smooth when they come out of the oven that most of them only require the lightest sanding with 800 – 1500 grit and then a waxing and buffing. Even in a dry climate like Northern California the beads that I used Minwax gloss on feel tacky and they scratch easily. The waxing on the other hand allows the polymer bead to feel more like a lightly glazed ceramic piece.
I tried spraying with the minwax gloss. Good thing I used a surplus bead. It was nevertheless a bead that I had put through the sanding process so it was smooth when I sprayed it. YUK! It felt as if it had developed pimples when I took it out of my little portable spray booth. I tried another very smooth bead, thinking I had overdone the spray on the first one. But no, it too, even with a light mist of a spray, deteriorated in tactile quality through use of the gloss varnish spray.
The wax is perfect for my work. I am using the neutral (no pigmentation) Kiwi shoe polish as the wax. I had heard from other clay artists that they had used it with success. When my little box of Kiwi is gone, I will try the Renaissance Wax that you recommend, too.
Sorry to take up your time, Cindy. But I did want to report that I am heavily involved in learning as much as I can from your tutoring.
Anna
No need for apologies Anna… So glad to hear you re enjoying the tutorials and that you are experimenting with different finishes. The feel of your beads in many cases, can be just as important as the look.
Just got delivery of my little pot of this wonderful stuff, haven’t used it yet and have just watched your tutorial on same. I bought it to put a finish on some metal and hadn’t even thought of it for clay finishes, so I’m particularly happy about that and thank you so much. Your tutorials are wonderful by the way, not too long and to the point.
This is really interesting. I also work with brass so this might be a good polish for that as well.
Thanks for all your video tips! They really helped me get back into polymer clay.
Thanks for this tip! it is on my shopping list:) It solves sooo many problems for me.
PS- I was wondering where the tutorial is for turning your bead holder that you put in the oven more secure.
I would search for it but I don’t know what to call that contraption!! lol
(Folded metal thingie to hold beads to bake!)
Hi Janine – you made me smile – it’s called an Amaco Bead Rack – some say bead baking rack
up above on the top right you’ll see the search box – type in Sugru where Cindy tells how to hack your bead rack:)
I have a problem with Ren wax. I put Ren Wax on two pieces and a spot of each is dull after buffing. I reapplied wax to those spots and buffed again. Didn’t help at all. Do you have any solution?
Hi Freda, it is not a problem with your Ren Wax, it is a problem with the finish you had on your piece before you added the wax.
Renaissance Wax magnifies whatever type of finish you have put on your polymer clay. For example, if your piece has a perfectly smooth and shiny finish before putting on the Ren Wax, then it will become even shinier and richer looking after putting it on. If your piece has more of a matte finish, then the wax will only bring it up to a soft sheen.
My guess is that you missed a few spots when sanding and the wax stayed dull in those spots. Or it is also possible that you could have a little glue or oil or something else blocking the wax from sticking in those spots.
If you think it could be the sanding, then re-sand your piece and try waxing it again. If you think it could be caused by something on the piece, I suggest you remove the wax by wiping it with rubbing alcohol, acetone or mineral spirits, then re-wax.
Good luck. Let us know how it goes!
Thank you so much on your review of the renaissance wax. I’ve been struggling with the right finish the paint on gloss just looks so unprofessional the floor wax reminds me of dirty floors. How shiny will it get with the extra coats? Have you tried that? To see how shiny it can get? Thanks for all you do!!! I’d give anything to be able to afford to watch your videos. Thank you again for sharing!!!!
Thank you so much on your review of the renaissance wax. I’ve been struggling with the right finish the paint on gloss just looks so unprofessional the floor wax reminds me of dirty floors. How shiny will it get with the extra coats? Have you tried that? To see how shiny it can get? Thanks for all you do!!!
LOL! Too funny Maggie! I have more than once been guilty of putting on many coats of floor finish thinking it could only get shinier with more, only to be spending hours trying to strip it back off again because it got sticky and dirty. I agree with your opinion on the Floor wax. It’s OK… in fact I used to really like it, but now that the quality of my work has improved, I much prefer the look and feel of a well sanded and buffed piece and the added sheen of this wonderful wax. It not only feels great to the touch, looks fantastic, but is WAY easier for me to do. No more drips or brush marks and no more removing the finish, because I didn’t like how it turned out!
I am going to order this right now!!! Thanks!
I have watched many of your videos and love your ideas. I take them to heart. I don’t like to do A LOT of sanding so I took your recommendation and purchased some renaissance wax. I love it and will be buying a larger container. I will, when I can, sand my items lightly and then apply a couple layers of the wax. Thanks so much for your wonderful ideas… they work, are very useful, and I will continue watching your videos. I previously subscribed. I’m retired. So, try to be frugal.
Hi Jonita, thanks for your kind words! I am glad you are enjoying the Renaissance Wax for your polymer clay projects. Just so you know, the smoother and shinier a piece is before you wax, the better the shine will be. So although Ren Wax will boost the shine, it doesn’t eliminate the need for a proper sanding. Thanks for commenting!
Hi – I am a sculptor and have a question about the Renaissance wax polish . I’ve done some fairly large sculptures in foam which I’ve covered with a water based resin. In the event that I used the polish would the wax repel the liquid rubber I would use to make molds of the sculptures? I guess what I’m asking is could the polish be removed if it were necessary to do that?
Hi Richard Renaissance wax is used by museums to protect fine art paintings and other artifacts. In order for them to use a product on such precious items it must be easy to remove without damaging the surface below. To remove ren wax you can use White Spirits (petroleum distillate). Hope that answers your question.
Hi Cindy! How are you, my favorite person?! I’m having a serious problem, it’s so bad that I gave up on my clay for a little because I was so frustrated. I got it back after watching your technique with the beach scenes, absolutely genius I must say.
Anyway, lol my problem is I the finish on my beads or other creations I sand using my polishing papers I have all the way up to 25000 grit! After I sand I use my ren wax and polish, oh it shines but only until you touch it then it dulls right up the only way to get the shine back is to reapply the wax and start over, but it’s useless because it doesn’t stay.
I’m so embarrassed with my pens. I sell them. They look great for short while then they look awful that I fib and say oh this isn’t done I have to polish it. I can just cry Cindy! All that work. I have a store on Etsy and the whole family is into the whole thing, they are so excited that I have it! But I’m too upset. I HATE glazes because it takes so much away from the piece. I don’t know what to do. Please tell me there’s hope!
Thank you for all you do! Oh, ps, can we arrange a marriage with Fisher and my daughter! He’s Soooooo darling! Lol. She’s totally smitten with him!
Ok enough Maggie lol
Thanks Hun!
Maggie
Your polymerclay tutee.
OMG Miss Cindy! You are a clay goddess! I read you reply on YouTube you were right I was putting too much Renaissance wax on! I can’t believe it! I know you said put on a little, but I thought hmmm well if it shines with a little imagine how great it will shine with a lot! I was SCOOPING the wax up with my items and using that chunk of wax. You have saved me, my etsy shop and my life, well my creative life. I was giving up. And so embarrassed I was actually lying to people saying, oh this piece isn’t finished I still have to polish it, even though I spent hours doing so!
Thank you from the bottom of my heart! How wonderful you are to take your time out from your busy day to help a nobody like me!
Your biggest fan!
Maggie Bates
That is so awesome to hear Maggie! Sometimes it is just the simplest things… isn’t it? So often when it comes to using supplies of any kind, more isn’t always better.
I’m not sure where to post some pics but I have a couple of pieces I’m pretty proud of and I know without Cindy’s tutelage I wouldn’t let anyone see them. Sand and sand and sand and sand and buff and then use Renaissance Wax and buff and buff. Makes all the difference in the world. I showed the one piece to hubs before I sanded and the first thing he said was, “And now your going to shine it up, right?” I guess he does listen,
hi Peg, Cindy has a Facebook site for all her pupils to post their pictures of what they make. Here is the link……. Polymer Clay Tutor Members Photo Gallery
The wax looks like a nice finish to use. Can you use it over a clay piece that has been painted with acrylics?
Hi Christine, yes this wax should be just fine putting over acrylic paints. It can pretty much go over anything I have tried except Gilder’s Paste, which it just removes… (Probably too similar of a product since they both contain waxes.)
I love ren wax. It can be used over gilders paste with care. I find that if you dab it on with your finger and don’t try to spread it about too much, then leave it to ‘dry’ for an hour or two (I haven’t tested what the optimum time is though) you can buff it successfully. You have to be gentle with it though. Then if you use a second coat you can shine it up a bit more. But then, I am going for an aged finish, so I find some of the side effects of using ren wax on gilders paste really useful ;-)
Is it safe to rebake pieces with Renaissance Wax on them? I sanded and buffed the front of a pendant and added some wax, but I want to add a textured back to it.
Hi Krithika, I haven’t tested re-baking something that has Ren Wax on it yet, so I can’t be positive… though it is usually put on so very thin that I doubt it would be an issue. To be safe though, you could remove the wax with some paint thinner or mineral spirits. Then you could re-add it after you have re-finished the piece.
Hi,
I have rebaked polymer clay beads with Ren wax quite a few times. Putting a textured back on some cufflinks for instance. It takes the shine right off in my experience, so you have to re apply it and buff again, but other than that, no problems.
It did funny things to an image transfer bead on Sculpey original, it kind of melted the image into the clay and turned it purple as the ink and wax ran.. . . But that was an unlikely combination and I won’t be doing that again ;-) Also I should have baked it the correct length of time to start with. But other poly clays have been fine under the very same treatment. So go for it.
Re gilders wax/paste and ren wax. Yes it takes it off, which is not ideal, but can be interesting as you can push the gilder’s wax into the crevices of your texture while polishing it off the raised bits.
I have found that if I polish the gilders wax/paste first, then carefully dab a thin layer of ren wax, (avoiding wiping or disturbing the surface too much) leave it for an hour or two to harden a bit, I can buff it up if I go carefully, but it’s a bit dicey. . Once the first layer of ren wax is on, buffed and hardened, more layers can be added with confidence and buff up very well.
Jon x
Thank you so much Jon for your insights! That is very helpful for both myself and everyone else here. Btw I checked out your Etsy store and you do very nice work!
(For those of you who are interested in seeing Jon’s work, just click on his name beside his comment and it will take you right there.)
Sorry I just saw this today. Good to hear that microcrystalline wax works so well on PC. Here is a cheap source for the wax without the Renaissance name.
Found this source too, @ $4.25 for a 2 oz cup of the wax. Probably more practical than the pound slab from Douglas and Sturgess link in my previous comment.
Those look interesting Harriet. How soft is that wax? It seems like it may be a lot harder than the paste wax that the Renaissance Wax is. It is inexpensive though, so it would be a neat thing to test.
I just love the Renaissance wax; so glad I got the big tin, I know I’ll find other uses for this. This gives my polymer clay the shine I was looking for, thank you Cindy. While I can’t quite justify the JoolTool purchase, I found some great little muslin mops, cheap, for my Dremel that do a delightful job of buffing with the Ren Wax.
I have tried putting a 2nd coat of wax on (after buffing the first) and does seem to increase the shine. I’m wondering about tool speed. A different clay artist suggested multiple passes with increasing speeds of the Dremel, I’ve tied but not sure if this is a helpful process or if I would get the same effect by going to a high buffing speed right away. Thoughts?
Hi Wendy, The thing about a Dremel is that it is pretty fast because the disks or mops are so small. If you start at the fastest speed, you will most likely give your clay a ‘rug burn’. Basically the friction is so high that it kind of melts the clay and gives it a smudgy spot, rather than give is a polish. I would start at a slower speed to start and then bump it higher to where you are seeing a nice shine without any rug burns. It’s not that you have to polish at each step… just that it may take a little tweaking to find the right speed. Hope that helps!
I have seen the same name on wax used in beading. Is this the same product?
Hi Cindy, I am a Visual Artist and have incorporated polymer clay into many of my pieces. Your videos have helped immensely in my exploration of this medium! I’m working on a series right now that has utilized gouache, conte, and plaid folk art products on baked polymer clay. Two of my pieces are sculptural, and one is wearable. What i am struggling with is finding a sealant that protects both dry and wet medium on baked clay. Can I use this product? It sounds perfect and low maintenance. I kinda gathered pyw 2 be ideal, but I am not a fan of sprays.
Thank you in advance,
Justin M.
P.S. would love to see a video of you mixing and painting with gouache into/on polymer clay. From what I’ve been able to gather it doesn’t seem to have a great rep in the polymer clay world. However, I’ve found it to be extremely versatile and pleasant to work with.
Hi Justin, I was wondering by a sealer for both dry and wet mediums, are you referring to mediums like powders for dry and paints for wet? Because I assume you’re not trying to seal something that is wet, right?
Also, if you are making a sculpture, is there a need to actually seal it? Will it be getting a lot of wear? Most of the mediums don’t need to be sealed unless they will be getting dirty or in a situation where they will rubbed against, like a bracelet for example. Polymer clay itself doesn’t need sealing, unless you want to give it a different finish.
PYMII would be a good solution, but there are lots of options for finishes. Renaissance wax will help protect from dirt, oils and dust but it doesn’t work well on alcohol ink and a few other finishes like Gilder’s Paste. It just lifts it off. It should work well on Gouache but I haven’t tested it myself.You could also use polymer varnishes and acrylic varnishes, polyurathane, resins and some new ones I am just testing and like, is the glossy and matt varnishes by Cernit. If you do a search at the top of the page for finishes, you will see reviews of the many different finishes that I have tested so far.
As far as gouache’s reputation in the polymer world… I am not aware of it… though I tend to do my own testing and don’t really listen to the opinion of others too much. There are some pretty ‘bougie’ artists in this niche that have opinions about everything. ;) In my opinion, anything goes… as long as it is compatible with polymer clay and doesn’t react over time, by getting sticky, flaking off or peeling, then it’s good to go!
PS. I don’t have any gouache in my studio right now to test it, but next time I see some, I will give it a whirl. You’ve got me curious!
Thank you so much for replying, your answer answered everything I needed to know perfectly! And yes, I did mean already dried paint as a wet medium :) Liquid sculpey seems to emulate any sort of “water” effect luckily, and rather well. I took a look at matt varnishes by Cernit on your site just before replying, and that looks like a great option for what I will be doing. Basically my worry was of the wax potentially lifting things, so you saved me some potential heart ache, which I greatly appreciate.
As for gouache, what I love about it is that I can buy just one huge brick of sculpey in white or transparent and mix all my own colors. I also find that the colors don’t stain, so mixing and/or changing between colors doesn’t involve a baby wipe ;) That, and you can paint with them on the finished piece too. One tiny drop is all it takes, and I got a complete set for under $14 and still haven’t run out.
Thanks once again Cindy, I will be looking forward to seeing what material you come up with for us in 2018.
Best regards,
JM.
Thank you so much Justin for the kind words and the cool info on the Gouache! I will have to try those out sometime soon!
I really value your comments and expertise. You have opened up a whole new world for me.
On one of your studio video tours I noticed a translucent lampshade that you made. I would love some tips on how to form a shade. I want to make one that drapes over a metal rod rather than having a hole in the top. Did you create a form to shape and bake on? If so, out of what material? I look forward to your comments.
Fancy Nancy
Thank you Nancy for the kind words! I actually used a metal lamp shade that I bought from Michaels as my form to bake on. I can’t quite picture how exactly you want to form yours, but you can use all kinds of items as a lampshade mold. As long as it is heat safe and you can pop the clay off of it after it is baked, it should work. I’d love to see what you come up with!