UltraDome Brand, UV Curing Epoxy Resin for Polymer Clay Jewelry

Ultradome UV Cure Epoxy Resin “I would like to learn more about using different mediums with polymer clay… such as resins.” ~Cindy-E

I am excited because I just received a sample of UV epoxy resin from Ultradome. Now if I can find the proper light source (or get some good sunny days), I will be able to add some beautiful resin finishes to my polymer clay beads and pendants. This is something that several of you have been asking me about for a while now.

Hi, I am new to polymer clay jewellery and am from South Africa. Can you use ordinary resin to coat the pendants and beads? Love your site. Blessings, ~Debra-B

For suggestions, I would like to learn more about using different mediums with polymer clay, such as mica powders, alcohol inks, stamps, resins, and other mediums. I am sure there are many other ways of using polymer clay in conjunction with other mediums that I am just not thinking of yet. ~Cindy-E

I’d like resin techniques and lava beads sound fun, no idea what they are but would like to find out, Thank you. ~Polyanya

Hey Cindy. How about that thick resin coating that they pour on tabletops. Is it compatible with polymer?
~Peggie-F

Actually, the following link will take you to an article where I asked for feedback about what topics to film for upcoming tutorials, and resin techniques was requested no less than 17 times in the comments: Polymer Clay How To Videos

Anyways, back to the Ultradome product. It is similar to MagicGlos UV Resin which is promoted by polymer clay artist Lisa Pavelka, only much less expensive. Ultra Dome UV Epoxy is $6.00 for 1 oz, $30.95 for 8 oz and $51.00 for 16 oz, whereas the MagicGlos is $9.50 for 1 oz and $50.00 for 6oz.

Lisa’s UV lamps are much cheaper though at $36.00 for the 9 watt and $52.50 for the 36 watt. The cheapest lamp from Ultra Dome is the 18 Watt UV Lamp for $175.

Since we don’t get much sun at this time of year where I live (Vancouver, BC, Canada), I was hoping my OTT Grow Green bulb in my desk lamp would work to cure this stuff. But although my little test sample is hardening, it is not curing very fast. It’s been under the lamp for more than an hour and is still not done. With a proper lamp, the cure time is only supposed to be around 20 minutes. So it looks like something stronger is needed. I’ll be checking out a few of the local lighting shop to see if they have other UV light options and ideas for me.

What I really like about the concept of the UV cured epoxy resin is the open time and the lack of mixing. Usually, epoxy resin comes in two parts which have to be carefully mixed and used up before they harden in 15 minutes or so.

I personally find  the 2 part epoxy products to be a bit of a pain, because it is hard to know the exact amount of resin you will need for a project. This means you can often end up wasting a lot of product. Plus most have a minimum amount that should be mixed in order for the formula to work properly. That means you can’t just do one small piece at a time when you are just fooling around, like I often do when I’m experimenting.

Also 2 part epoxies set up quickly. There isn’t a lot of time for fussing around, removing bubbles and pulling the epoxy to the edges of the piece. If I’m going to go to the effort and expense of covering a carefully made polymer clay piece in resin, I do want to make sure it will not be ruined by imperfections.

With the UV cured resin, it won’t set until you put it into the UV lamp or in the sun, which means you have all the time in the world to remove bubbles and fix any flaws.

Another upside to UV Light cure resins over regular 2 part epoxies, is the smell. The regular stuff is so smelly, it needs to be mixed and used outside. This UV stuff doesn’t seem to have much of a smell at all. A big plus for those who are sensitive to chemical odors!

So I am really looking forward to playing with this sample product from UltraDome. I am hoping I can use it to bring some wonderful shine and depth to many polymer clay beads and pendants in the future… at a price that I (and you) can live with.

So off I go to figure this whole thing out. And when I do, you guys will be the first to hear about it, along with some fun ways to use it!

In the mean time, you can click on the following link if you like, to read up on some great feedback from Mary-B about several of the other resin products on the market today.

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** Win Some Polymer Clay Beads: Handmade by Cindy Lietz.
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Comments

  1. Well, this is interesting – something totally new to me. Is the purpose to protect the finish of the polymer when using powders, inks foils,etc?

  2. Sounds likes the stuff they use when I get my nails done…. they are called “gel nails” but really when it’s cured under a UV light it’s a very strong clear plastic. The gel-like material it painted onto the nails in coats and then cured under the UV light after each coat…. it’s sandable, very shiny, and very durable. I actually wonder if the material would be compatible with polymer clay every time I get my nails done. BUT perhaps you could find a spa that will let you put your project under their lights for 20 minutes….. just this once…. ;)

  3. I would love to learn more about using epoxy resin. I have seen some of Lisa P. work with magic gloss, a pendant made with black clay and silver foils. It really was magic the sheen and beauty in the pendant. I have never used any kind of resin for any kind of craft so I am eager to learn more. Learning this from you Cindy will mean it is something I will be able to accomplish. So please play away and share with us in that magical way you always do.
    I for one can’t wait to see what you bring to us.
    Love and Uuuuuuuugggggggs, Peggy

  4. Looking forward to hearing about this UltraDome Product, Cindy. We just had a demo at our Guild using the Magic-Glos. I have yet to try the stuff (recently purchased the Magic-Glos. I live in sunny Arizona (although it has been raining for the past 3-4 days!) so, I am planning to use regular light instead of a UV lamp. I have seen some cheap UV lamps on E-bay as well, if anyone is interested in buying one. I played with resin last year (Enviro-Tex ??), but I was not happy with it. I even tried to make a well to hold it from going down the sides, but it only puddled along the sides of the well. If this UltraDome works as well as the Magic-Glos, that would be awesome. Also, heard that the Magic-Glos doesn’t last long, so it is best to purchase a small amount rather than a large amount. It’s efficacy dwindles down if it has been sitting on the shelf for a long time.

  5. I tried Magic Glos and was disappointed with my results. Of course I didn’t realize that a windowsill won’t cure the resin! I contacted Lisa and then tried again outdoors. I live outside of San Francisco and we don’t see sun much either so the results weren’t great. I also found the resin likes to collect in the center and it’s hard to get a smooth coating without bubbles and unfilled valleys. I need to save my money and get a UV lamp. I hope you can find a cheaper version for us Cindy!

  6. Lisa’s Magic Glos supposedly sets up in 5 to 10 minutes. I have the 36 watt lamp but would rather have the smaller one. I have yet to try the process but will report what I do find out about the product.

  7. Neat, looking forward to seeing what you find out. I’ve been wondering lately if resin-coating polymer clay roses would make them more durable. Mine seem to be prone to breakage.

  8. Katie – Are you baking your roses at about 265° for at least an hour? I’ve cooked some an hour and a half. I think lower temps and longer times makes the PC more flexible rather than brittle.

  9. UltraDome has a shelf life of one year. The way to remove bubbles is with a pencil torch. A heat gun will not work because it blows air and could also blow dust and fuzz onto the piece.

  10. I have a UV lamp from Lisa and have tried the MagiGloss a few times. I really like using it. My first attempt at it was a failure though but just like everything else, with a little practice you get better at getting it to spread out and getting bubbles out. I made a clay butterfly pendant and put a couple of the tiny flowers from my daughters wedding boquet on the butterfly and covered with the resin. It worked wonderfully and my daughter loved it.

  11. I don’t have a camera. How do I get a picture to send? Will a scanner work? I just bought a judikins petite soleil uv light from Joann’s they have a 50% of sale. I used the online code and got it for 18.24 instead of 36.49. Sale ends tomorrow. Bought Lisa’s magic glos. I live for friday mornings!! I thank you Cindy you are great. I’ve learned so much from you>

  12. There is another product that you can use that does not need a UV light. This product is called Royal Coat Dimensional Magic made by Plaid. It comes in a 1.1 fl.oz. bottle. It takes 3 hours to dry. I have used this and it works great. I have bought mine at Hobby Lobby,and Walmart,and I think Michaels carries it as well.

    • @lynn watts: I looked for Dimensional Magic at both WalMart and Michaels (no Hobby Lobby in the entire state of Nevada). Neither carried it. Just goes to show that not all products are sold in all locations. Maybe they think there aren’t enough artists in Nevada to warrant carrying some of these products!

  13. Will Diamond Glaze or DG3 Art Gel work? Diamond Glaze by Judikins can be used for shallow pendants and is $5.99 for a 2 oz bottle. DG3 Art Gel by Judikins at $10.99 for 4 oz creates a dome like effect. I haven’t tried any of them yet.

  14. Hi,
    I’d love to hear how this compares to Magic-glos, particularly with regard to how Magic-Glos tends to shrink or pull back away from the sides of your piece. Wonder if this does the same?

  15. I think the Diamond glaze will work just fine. I was looking for my bottle arnd. my craft room and I misplaced it some where. That is what I get for moving things to a different area. The other two you mentioned I have not used them so I can not tell you definately that they would produce what you desire. Good luck and let us know if the others work.(Cheryl)

    • @lynn watts: Any thoughts on DG3 art gel ? It’s easier to get in the UK. I would have to send to Ultradome direct to get it… no one is importing yet, and Magic Glos is very expensive – but good, and I tend to trust something that has been developed for use by a polymer artist.
      Is Art gel thick enough to dome, rather than rush over the sides?
      Any deterioration in the polymer?
      What about the Plaid Dimensional Magic?
      Sorry, lots of questions, but we have all gone resin-mad.
      No wonder, given the amount of time it saves, adn the effects.
      Judy

      • @Judy: Hi, Judy, I have only used Lisa’s and UltraDome so far. If you do the search box at the top of the blog you will find entries for DG3 and for Plaid Dimensional. Then you just have to try them and hope for the best, I guess.

  16. Cindy, I have been using Magic-Gloss a lot. I did a demo at our clay guild a couple weeks ago. I was practicing on some pieces to use for the demo and glos just wasn’t working. I was using a bottle I had opened in August and it wasn’t spreading. I do live in Arizona where things dry out faster. I opened a new bottle and it was better but it still pulls in from the sides. When using Magic-Glos it’s best to put a light stream around the edge of the piece (Tina Holden’s idea) put that out in the sun or in a uv light and then fill in the middle and continue putting more coats on it. The best way to see if you have filled in every spot or there are air bubbles is to put the piece on a small tile while working with the Magic-Glos and hold it up to eye level. Looking down at it is sometimes deceiving. Can’t wait to hear your thoughts about this new Ultradome UV Resin product. I really would like something that doesn’t pull away from the sides. I’ll send you some pictures of the things I’ve done with Magic-Glos.

    • @Bonnie: Hmmm! Lisa Pavelka indicated that the biggest problem would be having the Magic-Glos run over the edge. She works from the inside to the outside of the piece – which is opposite of the way others apply these coatings.

  17. Carolyn, I didn’t have a problem with it going over the edge when I ran a thin layer around the edge and then put it in the sun. I was very careful when putting that on. I also did a piece where I started on the inside and used a toothpick to pull it out to edge. I did make a mess when I put too much on and it dripped so I was very careful after that. I hope this new stuff is easier to use. I ordered some today. The only thing I’m worried about is that you have to use a little fire thing to get the bubbles out.

  18. Yes, they are easy to use and work well to get the bubbles out. Lisa showed us a technique at a workshop where if you have a big bubble that you don’t catch before hand and you have already cured the resin. Just take a dremel, drill a little hole into the bubble then refill and recure.

    If you are careful and fill from the middle out and use a toothpick to drag the gloss/resin out to the edges, making sure your piece is as level as possible, I have had very little problem with overflow and/or pulling from the edges. It just takes some practice.

    • I’ve also used Lisa P’s Magic Gloss quite a lot. For bubbles, Lisa says to use a heat gun blown quickly over the surface. It does remove most of the bubble very quickly. Works for me!!

  19. Carolyn, I ordered the Ultra Dome and it comes with a little blow torch. Just hope I don’t set the cat on fire. He’s constantly pulling on my shirt sleeve for attention.

  20. So glad to see all this interest in the UV Resin. I have some more playing to do before I show you what I know. I did find a quick wave over the surface with a lighter worked to get out the bubbles. (I need to pick up some more fuel for my torch.) Liquid overflowing is definitely an issue, but I should be able to figure some easy effective methods to show you soon. Will let you all know when I do!

  21. I sure hope this product works well. No mixing is so appealing, I’d love to see different ways to combine it with clay. Resin is pretty versatile, can use it for so many things beyond clay too. I can’t wait to find out the outcome of your tests Cindy!

  22. Yea Carolyn that has happened to me as well. They all do not carry the same item as the other Walmart’s. I thought they all carried the same items as all Walmarts. Sorry about that. Some places carry certain items and one day when you go in there to buy something and they don’t carry it anymore. I hate that when it happens. K-Mart did that with an item I went to buy that I had bought there before and they stopped carrying it.

  23. I’m glad to hear there is a cheaper alternative to the Magic Glos.
    I will look for it here in Michigan!!
    I have used the Magic Glos a lot, and here are some of my experiences:

    It seems to cure better in real sunlight, rather than under UV lite.
    If you put a thick layer, it takes longer to cure under UV lite than real sunlite. I leave mine in the UV lite for @ 25 minutes.
    If you use a heat gun to remove bubbles, don’t heat too much. Do a little at a time. This is especially true if you plan to bake the resin with clay, in an oven, afterwards. My resin sometimes turns an amber color after baking. But, when I cured in the natural sun, oven baking didn’t change the color. Go figure?!! I’m still figuring that one out!

    You can buy an exact type of UV lamp that Lisa P sells on Ebay.
    Got mine for @ $26. Not bad!! It’s for drying acrylic nails.

  24. Hi Cindy!
    I posted a little bit about Ice Resin on my blog. Lucid Moon Studios has a really neat polymer clay heart that she filled with resin, it might inspire some of your readers.
    Hope you and yours are well!

  25. @Shannon: Hi, thanks for the inspiration! That polymer heart is sooo adorable — it makes me want to start “resin-ating” right away! I’m going to wait for Cindy’s tests to be done, though. I know when her video comes out, it will show me how to use resin in the simplest way (you know how she “makes the mistakes, so we don’t have to…”) Still, I love the endorsement you gave to ICE resin — you really put it out there! I’ve seen lots of articles about it, with comparisons to other products; lots of people agree with you. BTW, you have some gorgeous stuff on your blog, and your etsy store as well!

  26. TRACKBACK COMMENT: “I did order a sample size bottle of the Ultradome mentioned in an article at Beads and Beading blog. It was only $6 including shipping for a 1oz bottle. Hopefully the UV light setup I use to make my clear stamps will work on the resin.”

  27. I, too, just ordered the Ultra Dome Resin. I haven’t used it yet, but hope it works as good as the Magic Glos.
    I use a heat gun to remove the bubbles, and hope it works the same for the Ultra Dome.
    Has anyone used both products? If so, can you give a comparison??

  28. NEW PHOTOS ADDED:

    Polymer Clay Projects

    Hello to Everyone,

    Some new Spotlight project pictures that relate to the topic of this page (Resin and Polymer Clay), have just been added in another post. They were submitted by Laurel-B. The link by my name will take you to where you can see them, along with a bit of a write up. Hopefully they will inspire you to achieve great things with your own polymer clay projects.

    BTW: Thanks to everyone above, who took the time to comment. Your feedback, support and fun conversations are always such a wonderful part of my day. Although I don’t get a chance to address each of your comments individually, please know that I do read them all. ~Cindy

  29. I’m in Canada so I had to send an email requesting UltraDome, the online order form won’t work…over a week later I’m still waiting for a reply….anyone else having problems contacting the company?

    gera in resin withdrawal

  30. That’s too bad you’re having trouble Gera. That’s a bit strange, I’ve had no problems communicating with them. In fact I just got an email from the owner today regarding a new lamp and a smaller sized bottle they have developed for jewelry makers. I am working on an update article that will get posted in a few days.

    I will contact the owner and let him know you’re having trouble. If he is not able to get a hold of you directly, I’ll come back here and leave another comment to make sure everyone gets connected properly.

    BTW, I understand the resin withdrawal… I love the stuff!

  31. Hello Gera,

    Not sure what problems you had. I checked and received an email from you today and sent you the invoice you requested and your product will ship tomorrow.

    We don’t use SPAM filters on our web site so not sure why you had a problem contacting me.

    Thank You and let me know if you have any questions about our products.

    Terry Morris,
    UltraDome & Epoxyjewelry

  32. UPDATE: Wow that was fast! I got an email back from Terry at UltraDome and everything is all straightened out and Gera’s order will be shipped tomorrow. That’s awesome and exactly what I wanted hear!

  33. Hi Cindy- I’ve used Magic Glos and have a shipment on order- after reading the really positive reviews about UltraDome I decided that I would be remiss if I didn’t try it out. For sure I’ll do a side by side consumer report!

    g.

    • @Phaedrakat: Yes most likely. I’ll run it by everyone first, but I think resin (no matter the type) is a good thing to add to your polymer clay skills. It really takes it up a notch!

      @Gera Scott Chandler: I would love to hear your ‘consumer report’ comparison of the two brands Gera! That would be excellent information. Too bad shipping to Canada is often so expensive. If this becomes a popular product, we will have to see if they can get a local distributor so the cost of shipping isn’t so high for Canadians. Do let us know what you think of it!

  34. Yes shipping outside the US gets expensive. Just to make it clear though we do not profit from shipping, I charge our cost of postage and a small fee to cover packaging and packing materials.

    If you live in another country and know of a cheaper way to ship than international Priority mail, please let me know and I will be happy to check into it.

    Since Cindy lives near the border maybe she could become a Canada distributor and save on shipping ;-)

  35. I tried out Magic Glos this weekend. I used a barbecue lighter to get rid of the bubbles (since I misplaced my mini torch when I moved). Seemed to work fine. Is it possible for the UltraDome to cure in sunlight?

  36. While it will cure in sunlight in about an hour it can get dust and other debris in it outdoors. It won’t cure through most house windows as they block 80 to 90% of UV light.

  37. I’m going to do a comparisson of Magic Glos, Ultra Dome and Gel du Soleil on my blog in upcoming weeks. Each product will get a full to empty bottle learning curve workout with me. My bottle of Magic Glos is empty-I’m currently on Ultra Dome! Gel du Soleil is still in the mail.
    gera

  38. I would like too now if the magic gloss from Lisa Pavelka is the same like Fimo decorating gel?

    Thank you and have a nice day!

    Simona

    • @Simona: I don’t know about anybody else…but, I have used Fimo decorating gel and it still doesn’t compare to the Magic Glos. The Magic Glos is more costly but I like the results that I have with it. To me, the Fimo gel is like the liquid sculpey and it isn’t the bright thick gloss finish you get with the Magic Glos. It is a good sealer but you don’t get the shine like you do with the Magic Glos. Just my experience working with all three. I have not used the UltaDome yet, though.

    • @Simona: I just wanted to agree with the others — Fimo Deco Gel is a liquid clay, and Lisa P.’s Magic Glos is a UV Resin, (so is Ultradome, shown on this page.) You bake Fimo Gel in an oven, whereas Magic Glos & Ultradome are cured with a UV lamp or in the sun. The finish you get with the UV resins are more glass-like. Very clear, and much harder than liquid clay. Of course, they’re more expensive, too! (Actually, Magic Glos is, Ultradome is a quite a bit cheaper than Magic Glos, closer in price to Fimo Decorating Gel.) Which you choose to use depends on the your project!

  39. The Fimo Decorating Gel is used to transfer images from photo’s, photocopies,newspapers,and magazines by brushing onto image,baking and peeling off. Excellent adhesion medium for connecting unbaked or baked polymer clay. Can be tinted with Genesis artist colors from Amaco, oil paints or dry pigments to create your own colors.

  40. Has anyone tried ICE Doming Resin from Object and Elements? Just wondering…it was mentioned in Sherri Haab’s new book “Jewelry Inspirations”. I went to their website and some of the examples used with this resin look fabulous.

    • @Lupe Meter: Haven’t tried it yet, but I’ve seen lots of good reviews. It’s a two-parter, so you have to mix it, but it always seems to come out on top when someone’s doing a “Top Resins” test in articles, magazines, etc. It’s Susan Lenart Kazmer’s “baby”, so it must be good, right? LOL I just love her work. She’s done some brilliant, funky, WOW-stuff. Not much polymer clay that I’ve seen, though.

      Let us know if you try it, Lupe! I’ve been wondering about it for some time. I haven’t purchased a UV light yet, so I’m not “financially commited” to UV resins just yet. Thanks, Kat

  41. I just received my ultra dome order couple days ago – had no problem ordering it. Just have to make the time now to try out the tute.

  42. I haven’t tried the Ice resin, Lupe, but I use a similar product–Colores Doming Resin. It’s a two-part resin, but I haven’t had the problems the author described. The resin I use has an open time of at least one hour, not 15 minutes, so there is plenty of time to work with it. Bubbles usually come out by themselves, but if they don’t I have plenty of time to get them out. It does have some odor if you put your face really close to it, but it’s not particularly strong. While it should be used in a well-ventilated area, it does not have to be used outdoors.

    Because it is a doming resin I rarely have problems with it leaking over the sides, and since I don’t have to move it under a UV light to cure it, I don’t have to worry about accidentally spilling it over the sides. I can just leave it right where I poured it.

    As far as mixing, I haven’t found it to be difficult at all, and the minimum amount you can mix is pretty small. I don’t have a problem with waste, because I make more than one thing at a time, and I always keep molds on hand for extra resin (another bonus is that you can cast with it, unlike a UV resin). But, even if I did have some waste, the two part resin is soooooooooooo much cheaper than the UV resin a little waste wouldn’t that big of a deal. Magic Glos is $50 for 6 oz.; Colores Doming Resin is $16.35 for 16 oz (or $19.50 if you only buy one bottle; I buy in bulk). I haven’t used Ice Resin, but I have heard it is pretty similar. It is a bit more expensive than Colores, but at $24 for 8 oz. it is still less than half the cost of Magic Glos. And, you don’t have to buy a UV light, either.

    • @Kristin: Hi Kristin, is the Colores Resin the one they sell at at Rio Grande? I know I’ve seen it somewhere lately (been doing a LOT of comparison shopping.) I bought some of the Ultradome resin to get started with, but I think I’m also going to try one of these other types. You’re the first person I’ve heard mention using Colores. Good to hear such nice things! Thanks, Kat

    • @Kristin: I did try the Colores several years (3 yrs) back but I didn’t have much luck with them because at the time playing with resin was so new to me, that I probably didn’t mix it right or let it stand, etc. I waited for days and it just wouldn’t cure…it was just a huge mess. I guess, now that I have a little more experience with resin, I will have to give it a go again. I am sure whatever I have left of it is not good anymore, though the paints should be okay from what the Rio Grande presenter told me…but three years later…probably not! I am glad that it worked for you! Thanks for the info.

      • @Lupe Meter: I haven’t had that problem. However, I recently took a class in working with resin (we used Colores in the class) and our instructor talked about avoiding that problem. She said the main thing is to make sure you measuring accurately (1:1), stir really, really, really well, and use it at the correct temperature (The room or area where you are working should be at least 72 F).

        Hope this helps!

        • @Kristin: Thanks Kristin. I am pretty sure I messed up with the measuring and I mixed it outside and well. I live in Phoenix, probably outside was the not the best place to mix it. Thanks for sharing!

  43. So far I am not sure if I am thrilled with Ultradome. Website is not too informative. I ordered on the 18th, paid via Paypal, and have not received any sort of notification in regards to shipment. I emailed Terry last night around 8pm, it’s now 1pm and while I know this is too soon for a reply, just sort of a little put off already.

    I love using Ice Resin, but I have some special orders that I would love to use a premixed resin and one that cure by uv light. So I am not wasting product.

  44. Hello Sara,

    Actually I replied to your email within an hour of it being sent. You ordered on the 18th (at 7:50 pm Friday our time) and your order was shipped the next morning. Since you ordered the sample with free shipping it goes out by first class mail and takes can up to a week for delivery.

    I am sorry your not happy with us, I try to make every effort to place every bit of information I can on our web site, including how to videos. I normally ship within 1 day (8 hours in your case) and try to answer emails in a very timely manner (1 hour in your case).

    You might want to check your SPAM folders and see if my reply to you go trapped in there, if not I am sorry it got lost in cyberspace.

    If you are not happy with my service and would like to return the resin upon receipt I will give you a full refund.

    Thanks!

  45. Thanks Terry, for responding to Sara so quickly.

    @Everyone: Terry makes a good point about one of the big problems with email communications… and that is the potential for messages to get caught up in Spam folders. This can cause unfortunate misunderstandings. So please always remember that when you do not receive customer service responses in a timely manner, it does not necessarily mean the message was not sent. For tips on ensuring email deliverability, click on the link by my name.

  46. I rechecked my email, online and then back to my desktop, being as the email is there. But how strange, I did a search on my desktop email for Terry / Ultra / Ultradome and nothing popped up. This is my fault and my oversight as well.

    My apologies.

    But Terry, it would be extremely beneficial to you to send out confirmation emails informing the buyer their item has been shipped. I probably wouldn’t be so worried about it, if I wasn’t running into deadlines with my orders, not your fault in the slightest. But I am stretched extremely thin on my end and what time I use, needs to be used wisely.

    You can set something up within Paypal to do an autosend to your buyer’s once the item has been shipped. :)

    • @Sara: Good idea! I did receive a message about the shipment of my order from Ultradome, but I left special instructions in the shipping box. My email from Terry could’ve been because of that(?) I had a very good experience with Ultradome, though. I recieved my order via first class mail, and it arrived quite fast. I agreed to the free 1st class option instead of a faster method, figuring I’d get my order quickly (I’m on the west coast, same as they are.)

  47. Hello Sara,

    I ship through Endicia and they are suppose to send an email notice as well as a delivery confirmation number. It’s not the first time that their email has not gotten through or people don’t recognize it because it comes in as Terry Morris Productions (the parent company).

    I will consider doing it through Paypal, I thought this feature only worked when using Paypal for the postage but I guess it works even with using my postage company.

    I know exactly what you mean about time being a factor, I am in the same boat. I get many orders every day from all over the world for everything from an ounce of epoxy to several gallons at a time. I strive to get my product out as fast as I can and in doing so I rely on the automated features I pay for to take care of the emails and such. It would be quite a bit of extra labor to go and manually mark each order as shipped using Paypal but if Endicia can’t get the emails delivered I may have to.

    I have sent them a letter with my concerns, it will probably be a few days before they get back to me though.

    Thank You.

  48. @Phae I have been very fortunate with receiving items quickly via First Class. And I ordered the Ultradome UV Resin sample, and have a feeling this is going to be exactly what I need being as my current method of finishing my cufflinks is leaving me with it not curing completely. *absolutely frustrating!* I have been looking at UV cures and Lisa P.’s is just a little to expensive. And I love reading what Cindy has tried, it’s so helpful to find someone who has tested it and can let you know if it works.

    I’m in between with Ice Resin, but the more I use it and the more I am becoming comfortable with using it. I am getting some really good results. But I hate making such a HUGE batch, which 99% of the time I will use it all.

    Anyway, I really need something that can turn my product out faster, being as I am currently back logged on 15 orders….

    @Terry, I know how frustrating that can be, being as some of my buyers don’t get emails always from Paypal. Or who knows, they may have overlooked it as I did with the last email I complained about. Which again, I apologize for overlooking. I totally pride myself on being thorough and somehow that slipped right past me.

    I have never tried Encidia. I have tried stamps.com, but can not compare the two. One thing I wish these service did, is send me a copy of the email they send my buyers, so I know there was a copy sent. It can be extremely frustrating as well. Being as I know you probably have a lot of orders and would be time consuming for you to send emails separately on your own.

    It’s not easy and I am sure since Cindy’s review, you have jumped thousand fold with orders. And from what I am reading and have heard. I will totally recommend your Ultradome product! Being as it’s easier on the pocket and us small time business owners/crafters, this is exactly what we need. :)

  49. Also, has anyone tried Mod Podge as a sealer before using the Resin? Or do I need to use the Vinyl Adhesive sheet as well?

    I am worried with using the tape, that it still leaves the edges exposed of my photo paper, and the epoxy may still seep into the image creating what looks like wet marks. Or does this epoxy not have that issue?

  50. Hello Sara, if your asking about our epoxy then Mod Podge does not work. I tried it several times a year or so ago. I am testing a liquid sealer that looks like it’s going to work.If it works out it will be fairly inexpensive.

    As for the vinyl. If you use a semi gloss or glossy photo paper it will be fine, these papers are more like plastic than paper and don’t absorb water like plain paper. The other option would be to use a piece of vinyl larger than the print as stick it over the print with overlap. Not a perfect solution but an option.

  51. I use glossy photo paper, which I figured that would work since you mentioned that in your video. But I was worried it might have that seepage I have had with other epoxies I have used in the past, but good to know it doesn’t. :)

    I got your email and replied. :)

  52. @Carolyn, thanks! It’s a real fluke thing too. I normally don’t have these many, but it doesn’t help I ran out of cufflink blanks as well.

    I did receive my order of Ultradome and I do really like it. One thing I have learned is on slightly windy days, this can push the resin. So I have been attempting a second coat in which to hopefully keep it at the edges.

    Unfornuately for me, my photo glossy paper does bleed into the resin. (I use Canon Photo Paper Glossy. Sadly Kodak I have tried in the past and my Canon printer seems to favor it’s own paper when it comes to printing quality prints.) I have tried other decoupage sealants and one that seems to be working for me, is Aleene’s Collauge Pauge Gloss Finish. I did have one piece where the resin had pulled away from the Collage Pauge, but that could be that I had dribbled it on that piece and didn’t go over it with a toothpick. Which I have been using to smooth the resin to the edges.

    I did also test this with packing tape and Contact paper and the resin turned out beautifully with that, but since my pieces are already precut. I did not use this being as I worry I may not be able to get all the air bubbles out.

    To me, the resin does have a slight odor. Which I have contacted Terry in regards to getting the MSDS sheet on this, being as I am unable to find it through his website and on MSDS online. I really like to know what I am working with, being as much as I love this stuff, I want to make sure it is safe to have around me and my kids.

    I have ordered a UV lamp from Ebay, which was pretty inexpensive. With this I can cure my pieces at any time of day or night and not worry about needing the sun or if it’s too windy.

    And thanks for the tip about PYM. I looked it up and it sounds extremely promising! Another finish I am thoroughly loving is Fimo Glaze. I have used that on a few pieces and the finish turned out amazing! No streak marks, dries very fast!

  53. Has anyone ever used rub on transfers to cured clay….do they work? I have some pretty butterfly’s that I would like to put to polymer clay. I would guess I would need to do this BEFORE baking. Any comments?

    • @June W: Very possibly you will have to test this yourself … and, of course, let us all know the results. You may need to use Terry’s Inkseal over the transfer. Also, and you’ve probably thought of this, you should make sure that your surface is ultra-smooth before applying the transfer. Good luck! Let us know what happens.

  54. Hi Cindy – I don’t think your assessment of 2 part epoxy resin is accurate.

    I have had GREAT success with 2-part resin that is sooooo much cheaper than Magic Glos. A large bottle of Magic Glos is over $50, while the 2-part resin from Michael’s is about $10 with a 40% off coupon. I’ve made a ton of gorgeous pendants at a fraction of the cost. (Personally I think $50 for Magic Glos is ridiculous and then the cost of shipping to Canada on top of that!)

    I bought some cheap plastic measuring spoons at the dollar store and have no problem mixing my resin for only one or 2 pendants at a time. You mentioned the resin sets up too fast – I’m not sure what brand you tried, but mine doesn’t even start to set up for at least an hour or more. Also there is a simple step that removes air bubbles almost instantly.

    Here’s the BEST part … you can cure the 2-part epoxy in the oven at 150-175F and it’s totally hardened in less than an hour!! I did a lot of research on epoxy resin and when I found out it could be oven-cured, it sold me on the spot!

    • @Elsie: How do you mix up your resin for only one to two pendants at a time?? Just curious how you measure your ratio.

      I agree Magic Glos is rather expensive as well. But I am guessing you are working with Envirotex Lite. But I have read that it is toxic. (There is MSDS sheets on that as well.)

      I do use Ice Resin and do have wonderful results with it, but have also read that using heat to cure it can release toxic fumes. But have only seen one article on that. I am planning on trying to see if I make smaller batches if it still works, being as they suggest mixing 1/2 oz of each bottle, anything lower won’t take?? But what do I have to lose?

      But I too do not have a problem with it setting too fast. I get about 40 mins work time out of it and I even toss in a little extra hardner to make sure it will cure. (Not too much being as that can make the resin crack in no time flat.)

      • @Sara:

        Hi Sara – I use EasyCast resin (I think made by Envirotex). It has a very low odor, even when oven-curing it. I’ve smelled some really fumey resins in the past – but this certainly isn’t one of them. For the small amounts I use, I’m not worried about any possible toxicity.

        EasyCast is a 50/50 resin, so I use one teaspoonful of each if I’m doing one or 2 pendants. Normally I do a tablespoon of each which easily coats 5-6 pendants.

        So with almost no odor (probably less than the smell of Kato clay which has quite a strong “plasticky” odor) and fast oven curing, I’m sold on this resin. It works very well (for me at least) at a fraction of the cost. I actually don’t understand how people are paying the going rate for Magic Glos, then cost of shipping, and then the extra expense of a curing lamp just to use that product.

        Take care.

        • @Elsie: Thanks so much for the information. I may try that with my Ice Resin. I forgot, I meant Easy Cast…..but Envirotex Lite was what I had been hearing about being toxic. Easy Cast isn’t. (I have some at my work table.)

          I know the price for Magic Glos is quite out there. I purchased a bottle from Amazon, with shipping it came to about $8.

          The lamp too, you’re right is another expense. But I did find one relatively cheap on Ebay, which is meant for nails, but serves the same purpose. I am intrigued by using a UV Resin, since I need something to work with in small amounts. But with your tips. I may give that a try. :)
          I really appreciate your help! :)

    • Elsie,
      How long do you cure the resin in your oven? A whole hour??
      Thanks for your input. I have used Magic Glos and Ultradome, and lately, they are not drying properly. I’m getting a bit frustrated! Plus the cost of those resins is becoming an issue.

      • @Debbie Sosa: I have been using Ice Resin, which I have not had one problem with. I think out of 12-15 batches so far, I think I had one that didn’t cure properly. I am really loving this stuff. It’s a 1 to 1 ratio mix, but it does have room for measuring error.

        When it is cured, the finish is amazing, but that is partly because this is jewelry grade resin.

        I find my supply at goodybeads.com

        I have been curing my pieces per Elsie’s AWESOME suggestion and I am having huge success with it. But with my bottle caps. I let them sit for a day and then bake them. First time I did it, I ended up with bubbles in the resin when I put them in the oven from directly putting the resin on.

        But it’s about an hour @ 150 – 175 degrees. (Elsie, that was the best tip I have ever been giving!)

      • @Debbie Sosa: I also meant to mention that I have had problems with Magic Glos and Ultradome as well. I have not tried it on polymer clay pieces just yet. But the application I was trying it on was applying an image to a scrabble tile or on top of polymer clay. I’ve tried all different types of undercoats, Mod Podge, outdoor, hard coat, reg and many others. I even received InkSeal from Terry and with that as well, I ended up with the stuff oozing out the sides and the resin can slide right off the image.

        I am doing some more testing with it, just a little dissapointed it did not work for what I was hoping to use it for. (BUT I have not given up hope just yet…LOL)

        • Sara~ Have you tried to just spray Krylon matte acrylic coat as a sealant before using Ultradome or Magic Glos? I haven’t done any resin, yet on paper items with ink on them, but I use the Krylon spray to seal a lot of other paper items with success. I’m getting ready to make some bottle caps, myself, with
          a stamped paper underlay. I’ll seal my ink with the Krylon and see if that works. I’ll let you know what happens…

  55. OH and Ice Resin is non toxic. It’s more than the Envirotex, but cheaper than Magic Glos.

    And my only complaint is that it seems to get bubbles easily when getting to the end of a batch….which is another reason why I would like to try making half of the ratio they suggest and see what happens for me. :)

  56. Elsie and Sara: Great discussion girls! You have some interesting tips in regards to working with the 2 part resin Elsie that sounds like they work around some of the issues. I will have to give them a try. You should know the UltraDome Resin I use is way cheaper than the Magic Gloss and once you have the UV lamp (or sunshine if you live in a sunny area) then you are set. There are never any problems with getting the mix wrong or any waste and it sets in 20 minutes. I love working with the UV resin but if you prefer to use the Envirotex then that is great! Thanks for sharing your ideas!

    • @Cindy Lietz from Cookie Cutter Canes Video Tutorial:

      Hey Cindy – thanks for the info on the cost of UltraDome !! … that’s a new one to me. Where do you purchase it? Where does one find a cheap UV lamp? (not much sun in rainy North Vancouver during the winter). I wouldn’t mind trying this UltraDome product. This sounds like a great product and any info would be appreciated.

      Take care.

      • @Elsie: I am the maker of the UltraDome line. While we have it on UltraDome.com that site is more for industrial use. I set up a site just for jewelry makers at EpoxyJewelry.com (just click on my name) and I have the resin (known as Jewelry Glaze on that site) as well as the UV lights and more. Check out the videos under the tips section to see how the product works.

        Thanks!

      • @Elsie: Hi Elsie. Many of the members here, have been using Ultradome as a result of the video tutorial I did back in Volume-024 (the link by my name will take you there). You will also be able to find many useful tips and as well as valuable product comparison feedback, by using ‘UltraDome’ as the keyword in the search box at the top of the page. Also try searching on ‘Resin’, ‘UV’ and even ‘Terry Morris’.

      • @Elsie: I could kiss you! I am baking my pieces in the oven as we speak and they are curing. And plus when it’s such a low temp, even better! Which I am aware that you can use heat to help it to remove bubbles. So this is a catch 22.

        I also tried doing a half mix with my Ice Resin and so far so good. What I mean by half mix. Is they recommend using a 1/2 oz of each and nothing less, being as they say it doesn’t work. Well, I notched it down to 1/4 of an oz and so far so good. That is the batch in the toaster oven. (They do mention using heat to help it cure faster, but do not really go into more details as to what type of heat.)

        I do really like the Ice Resin being as the finish is amazing! Plus it’s marketed as jeweler’s resin.

        This little trick may help me in those times when I am getting in a pinch and will be trying my Easy Cast again to see what sort of results I get with that as well.

        OH but I have baked my pieces over an hour now and they aren’t completely cured, but will come back with a final time frame. (They do say when using this, you can start working with your pieces after 6 hours, but I always wait the full 72 hour cure time.) OH and Easy Cast is made by Envirotex as well. Forgot to mention that in my last reply….

  57. Just a little suggestion. I use my plastic jewelry bags to put one teaspoon each of resin and hardener in the bag, this allows me to use my fingers to get the resin in the bag without the mess. I always make sure that I have mixed it well by squishing it around. (be sure you seal the bag well!!lol) It keeps most of the bubbles out and all I have to do is throw the bag away when I’m done. It keeps me from breathing it in, and it’s not as messy. ( I use envirotex lite.

    • @Sandra: Bingo! The little bag tip is great! No way to smell the sink! I’m a cake decorater, too, and I have done this with frosting! Why didn’t I think of this? Awesome!

    • @Sandra:

      Your plastic bag method sounds interesting. I use a popsicle stick to drizzle and push around my resin. I got a couple hundred sticks really cheap at the dollar store.

  58. Just an FYI, I not only sell the UV resin but I have a 2 part resin as well on the EpoxyJewelry.com site. It is similar to ice resin and the envirotex with one major difference, mine degasses much better, that means no bubbles when cured.

    It is also a 2:1 mix but I have to tell you that there are no true 1:1 mix epoxy resins. What they do is add fillers to the hardener to bring it up to a 1:1 mix and that is where you get problems with blushing and bubbles.

    Mine is 24 hour cure at room temperature (can be accelerated with heat) and has a working life of 30 minutes once mixing starts. It also has up to a year shelf life.

    I have several videos and examples on the website as well showing everything from mixing, painting, and one all about molds.

  59. OH and when I mean by low temp, it’s low enough that it would cause toxic fumes, or so I would hope. I know I had read using a torch to remove bubbles could get the resin too hot where it does release toxic fumes….not sure how accurate that is. But something for me to think about…

  60. @ Sara

    I put my oven on the lowest temp when I cure my resin …it’s somewhere between 150-175 degrees. I once had it turned to 200 by mistake but the resin cured perfectly with no problems — just twice as fast!! LOL.

  61. Here is a little hint with 2 part epoxy resins (all of them, not just mine). If you mix very small amounts, use just a little less of the hardener than you normally would. This may sound counter intuitive but too much hardener will prevent the resin from curing properly. And when working with small amounts it’s very easy to get too much hardener, so better to be a little low on the hardener that a drop too much. I got this tip from a chemist at 3M (they make our 2 part resin).

    Also most 2 part epoxy resins do not require a torch to pop bubbles but rather CO’2, so a soda straw and a little blowing on bubbles will work as good or better than a torch (not the same with our UV resins).

  62. @ terry

    Hi Terry – that’s what I do! I use a shortened soda straw and gently exhale over my resin-coated pieces before curing… any bubbles pop like magic. My pendants are 99.9% bubble free as this technique works very well. EasyCast seems to de-gas very well. I’ll be checking out your website now that I’m home from work.

  63. It worked wonderfully! I think maybe what I should have done is let them cool AFTER baking and would have seen that it cured. Being as I did a second batch with the mixture of 1/2 oz to 1/2 oz and that was cured.

    Also, another thing that I had read about Ice Resin, is there is a fail ratio, meaning, you could not have it exact and it will still cure. I forget the ratio of how much it can be off, but I have never had one bad mix yet.

    Terry, I am really confused. If you add too much hardner, it will prevent it from curing properly? I thought the whole purpose of the hardner is that it is a catalyst to be used with the resin to activate it to cure.

    And yes, with all my 2 part resins I have used the straw method, but I also like using the torch as well, which does the same thing, but with Ice Resin, just getting towards the end of a batch, can sometimes trap bubbles in the last few pieces and doing so heats the epoxy to release that trapped bubble. And sometimes, not always in the first few pieces will have a stubborn bubble that got trapped, CO2 doesn’t phase it, but the torch brings it right to the top to degas.

    I hope possibly tomorrow to experiment a little with the Easy Cast I have and seeing how the finishes look.

    One thing I did notice with my soda caps I did and this could because it’s metal, but in one of the 4 I tossed in the oven, it had some bubbles under the layer of Mod Podge, like seperation bubbles. Have you experienced that Elsie? Or have you used it with bottle caps?

    And I am such a tard, your first post you mentioned you pick up cheap measuring spoons. Just curious, what do you use to clean them or possibly store them when not in use?

    • @Sara: As I mentioned it sounds counter intuitive to use less hardener but when I was first experimenting with my epoxy I was having curing issues on occasion that I could not figure out.

      I would sometimes get epoxy that was a bit rubbery and sometimes even sticky. I talked with a chemist at 3M and told him what I was doing. Of course the first thing he told me it always mix 2 or 3 ounces, but when I insisted for my tests that was a waste he told me to use a little less hardener and it should cure the problem.

      Well I have not had a problem with small batches since that day. Basically I think the idea is that if you mix any extra hardener (in small batches) it would throw it out of proportion but a little less hardener than normal is not a big deal. And since in very small batches it’s almost impossible to get an accurate amount, it’s better to air on the side of less hardener.

      All I know in the end is that it works. I sometimes mix batches as small as 1/4 ounce total using this method.

      ———————————————————————————————————————————–
      Just A Quick FYI…
      there is currently a technical bug happening with the “Reply” function here at the blog. When you use it, your comments are temporarily held in the moderation queue, pending approval. This is not supposed to happen, and it will be fixed soon. But for now, it would be helpful if everyone could refrain from clicking on that little “Reply” link. Instead, you can simply reference others by manually typing their name… like @Sara [or] @Terry Morris [or] @Cindy: [etc, etc.]. This way your comments will post in real time, without any delay. Thank you all. ~Doug
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  64. Ok, I’m back. I actually had to do a little research on both epoxy products. And actually, it’s not CO2 that helps with the bubbles, it’s the heat from our breath that helps those bubbles degas. (This was mentioned on Ice Resin and Easy Cast.)

    Easy Cast is marketed for smaller batch mixing. Which I have used in the past, but seem to have some problems with not getting the correct mix. My pieces would be sticky. Which can be a result of not having enough of Resin or Hardner. I just didn’t seem to have any luck with it.

    Ice Resin, I have heard (and can’t seem to find the few pages I had read) that there was a slight sliding scale on the measurements. But again, this one you can use a straw to degas, your work light to help raise the bubbles, but in the case of Elise, using an oven to cure it. (Which I am loving by the way!!)

    But Terry, every product is different and I am not sure which product 3M was explaining to you about, but each epoxy has different guidelines. But the products I have mentioned above, on their websites, strictly explain, it needs to be a 1:1 ratio. Nothing more, nothing less.

    I am experimenting with the Easy Cast tonight and added just a little more hardener to see what happens. So far Ice Resin out of 10 batches since I have heard about adding just a tad more of hardener, not one batch came out sticky. *rock on*

    Elise, which brings me to an idea for you. I am sooooo incredibly silly!! I know of a company, well local store for me, but they do have a online store, they sell small medicine cups, that have tsp measurements. I totally forgot about this being as I converted to Ice Resin and every time I order it comes with measuring cups and sticks.

    BUT the measuring cups are 8 cents each!! Well, just looking at it now, they have 40 for $2.95. The site is at sciplus.com and you will find the measuring cups by using “92717 MEDICINE CUP” in their search box.

    My family and I love this store and can spend literally hours looking around reading the funny snarky signs that go with the product they’re selling. :P

  65. @Sara

    Terry is right about using a little less hardener when mixing the 1:1 EasyCast resin in very small amounts. I discovered this myself through some trial and error. I’ve had a couple of batches that didn’t harden properly and when I used slightly less hardener (for a very small batch) it worked great.

    Thanks for the info on supplies. I get 50 plastic cups for a dollar – so 2 cents a piece is about as cheap as it gets. I re-use the same measuring spoons – I just wipe them clean after each use. I buy 100′s of popsicles sticks in one package at the dollar store so that’s very cheap too.

    I try to source all my supplies locally – shipping to Canada is never cheap.

  66. @ Elsie
    Then I stand corrected. See, I have never really played around with the epoxy, I have always been a straight lace, follow instructions step by step. Only recently have I been trying to venture into what works for me.

    I really love the Ice Resin so far, but making a total of 1oz at a time is just WAY too much for me. I don’t have a problem using it all, it just starts to set by the time I am getting to the end of my batch. Plus I would love to find a way to get things done faster, being as I am all about efficiency! :P

    That is awesome for the products you are using for measuring!

    I completely understand about shipping to Canada. Depending on who it’s coming from and how much it weighs can be very costly.

  67. OH and I have tried Lisa Plaveka’s Magic Glos, despite hearing some people having this issue. For my application, it made the Mod Podge underneath wet and sticky. Very frustrating! And had serious problems with it pulling away from the edge before I even had it cured, another frustration, but I have heard doing the edge first, cure and then fill in and cure, works better. But since the Mod Podge becomes wet underneath for my application, not worth it to try that. *sigh*

  68. Ok – I’ve given a 2-part Crystal resin a go (Gedeo) and it was successful, making up a very small amount – just enough to coat a pair of belnd and switch earrings.
    How? I bought a couple of small syringes (insulin-type) so I could measure amounts very accurately, emptied them into a tiny zippy bag and mixed from the outside, massaging with my fingers. I then cut a small hole in one corner, and hey-presto, an applicator to deliver resin exactly where I needed it!
    24 hours later and the finish is probably better (never thought I’d say that) than Magic Glos, as there is no pull-back.
    It’s fairly runny, so will probably only work on flat surfaces, but I think I’m going to investigate moulds next.
    Ju

  69. Sorry, my finger slipped to hit send before I’d proof-read.
    Blend and switch earrings …. not belnd …
    Of course, clean up is easy, or non- existent – the syringes are washed in hot soapy water and the bag is thrown away.
    And I should have signed ‘Judy’ :-)))

  70. I have some Envirotex I’d like to try for a big project (lots of little pieces, not one big one). I tried out a piece with Magic Glos and it turned out quite well. I live in a sunny part of the world, so I was able to let it cure outside. But since I already have this Envirotex, I thought it would be a more cost effective answer. Here’s my question, I’m anticipating that I might have some product running off the sides. Any ideas on how to handle that? I was thinking I might line a cookie sheet with wax paper, put some upside down paper cups on the paper, and put the polymer clay pieces on top. This way the resin could run down the sides without sticking to much of anything (or ruining my cookie sheet). Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks in advance and thanks to all of you for this very useful thread!

    • @Betsy: Here is a thought. Have you ever seen those huge wall clocks made from tree roots and then covered with like 10 layers of epoxy? My brother use to make those.

      What they did was take a piece of scrap plywood and drive dozens of long nails through it, then lay it with the nails (points) laying face up an place the wood on that and pour the epoxy over it, letting it drip of the sides.

      On a miniature version what about sticking a bunch of thumbtacks through a piece of cardboard and then placing the pieces on the bed of thumbtacks (tips) and pouring on the epoxy?

      You will end up with little ice cycle bumps hanging off the back but these can be sanded off afterwards.

      • @Terry Morris:Hey, thanks, Terry! I was wondering about that too! I was told that you can sand the resin after curing. That will save a lot headaches.
        So, far I like the UV resin, Ultra Dome. But, I do have a question for you. I just recently cured some heart shaped pendants and used a match to pop the bubbles that formed. I didn’t see anything different about the piece until after I cured in under the uv light. It actually had what looked like scorch marks. Maybe the match scorched the resin? The resin has a yellowish brown tint in some places. I’m not to confidant about trying to remove any bubbles now. I kind of like the look because real glass will have air bubbles and this would just add the the illusion of real dichroic glass. Any input on this would be appreciated.

        • @Catalina: I have never tried to pop bubbles with a match so I am not sure what happened. If the epoxy gets too hot you normally see ripples in the surface. It could also be that smoke or some other chemical from the burning match might have actually gone into the epoxy causing the effect.

          A butane flame burns a lot cleaner than one from paper, wood, candles, and especially sulphur and other chemicals contained in a match head. If you don’t want a mini torch get a BBQ lighter from a hardware store or maybe even a dollar store. I think that is what Cindy is using.

          • @Terry Morris: Yes, That makes sense! Duh! It was just wierd I didn’t see it before I cured it. I had I saw it I could have started over. I guess I’l try the butane lighter method. Cheap and safe. I’m not too sure about the torch yet. I have my “Art Director” Daisy, the spoiled Maltese, and her new sidekick, Bubby, the Chihuahua, to watch out for. Plus, I’ve been known to be a little accident prone.
            Another reason why I like Ultra Dome is how easy it is to use. And there is no heavy odor. Great when you got little ones around and pets.

        • @Catalina: You can pick up one at Home Depot/Menard’s/Lowe’s for about $8-$9. I love mine! It’s refillable and the refills are extremely inexpensive. It’s made by Benzomatic.

        • Catalina~ I too, have had some problems with the Magic Glos turning and amber color after baking. Lisa P says you can bake it, but, I have to bake it after it is cured, and some pieces turn amber color.
          I haven’t figured out if it is because lower layers of the resin maybe didn’t cure enough? Seems like the ones I cured in direct sunlight, didn’t turn amber after baking. Only the ones I cured with a UV lamp.
          Anyone had any problems like that?? Also, I had a beautiful poly clay pendant that I had cured outside in full sun, that was fine for @ 6 months, then all of a sudden, it had a spot that looked like it was reacting with the resin, so I had to pull it off my online shop before it sold!!
          Not too happy about that!

  71. I’m loving this thread! Lots of good info about the different kinds of resin…some I’ve been wanting to try for years! Terry is doing a fabulous job answering and helping here — if he’s this helpful with competitor’s resins, you can imagine how great he is with Ultradome and Jewelry Glaze (his own products!)

    Since I’ve been wanting to try resin for so long, I did a lot of reading on the subject…the last two questions have come up before. I’ve seen the “match” question…it can cause those marks Catalina mentioned (and for the same reasons Terry said!) BBQ lighters DO burn cleaner…I see them regularly at dollar stores (around here) for a buck. As for the ‘dripping resin’…I’ve read about some solutions…you basically need to elevate your piece above the sheet’s surface so the resin doesn’t puddle around it. Use scrap clay, bottle caps/other lids, or strip(s) of tape (wind around brush or pinkie, remove & stick to surface — or just make a sticky ‘flattened’ tape ball. Use more for larger/heavier pieces.) You can use lots of things for this…also, be sure to line your sheet with wax paper, or use a non-stick craft sheet… I’m gonna keep watching this thread, you guys have a great flow of knowledge happening here!

    • @Phaedrakat: Yes, this is a good thread! I have learned a lot. I keep coming back to see what else is happening. The elevated pouring method sounds good! It would coat the sides as well. I just might have to try that. Especially if your piece has rounded edges and it would spill over anyways. I have just the piece to try this out on.

      ———————————————————————————————————————————–
      Just A Quick FYI…
      there is currently a technical bug happening with the “Reply” function here at the blog. When you use it, your comments are temporarily held in the moderation queue, pending approval. This is not supposed to happen, and it will be fixed (hopefully) soon. But for now, it would be helpful if everyone could refrain from clicking on that little “Reply” link. Instead, you can simply reference others by manually typing their name… like @Terry Morris [or] @Phaedrakat [or] @Cindy: [etc, etc.]. This way your comments will post in real time, without any delay. Thank you all. Hope everyone is having a grat holiday long weekend. ~Doug
      ———————————————————————————————————————————–

  72. Update: even though I do have this unopened box of envirotex, I was so impressed with what I’ve read here and Terry’s generous information sharing that I ordered (and have received) a package of Ultradome for my project. I’ll be checking the weather forecast (Hermine certainly threw a monkey wrench in everybody’s plans this week!) to block out some sunny days. Wish me luck and thanks, Terry.

  73. If your trying to use UltraDome resin on an ink-jet print, there are only 2 products I know of that will properly seal it first (and I have tried hundreds) those are the clear adhesive backed vinyl and the new inkseal. Both of these are available on my site.

    For some reason with Mod Podge the epoxy won’t stick to it and as Sara said the dome then slides off.

    Sara, what problem did you have with the inkseal? It’s a fairly new product but have had no complaints yet and I made a few dozen items with it before letting it on the market. If there is a problem I would like to try and fix this for you.

    Also an open question to all that use a 2 part epoxy. Would anyone be interested in trying my 2 part epoxy and reporting back here on the forum how it compares to the one you are using now?

    I would like to get some honest opinions. I tried all the epoxies I could find on the market (about a years worth of testing) before deciding on the one I sell now. I did this because I wanted to offer the best. I tested both Envirotex lite and Ice resin. Both of these were offered to me as wholesale under my own label.

    My 2 part epoxy is not a 1:1 mix but rather a 2:1 mix (this will be the hardest part of using it for most, but it’s really not hard to do) but it has a much better bubble release when casting than the others I have tried.

    The only time you must fix bubbles is when you use it to paint a thin coat (1/16″ or less) onto an item, the reason is, the bubbles that touch both the item it’s on and the surface of the epoxy won’t pop on their own. But as long as the epoxy is thicker than the bubbles are tall they will rise and pop on their own while curing.

    Anyway I was thinking I would offer a 3oz. kit to people on this forum that are already using a 2 part epoxy for $5 including shipping as long as you agree to tell others here if it’d good or bad, that is how confident I am that you will like it. This would be a one time offer and I may limit the number of orders as I will actually be doing this at less than my cost.

    If anybody is interested, my email link is posted at this page: epoxyjewelry.com/contact.html [Please put the word "sample" in the subject line].

  74. @Debbie: Hi Debbie, in one of the comments you left above, you mentioned an item you had to pull after 6 months. It sounds similar to certain clay problems that show up months later. One of them is “uncured plasticizers” left in clay…they can break it down over time. Maybe they caused some kind of reaction with the resin…any chance you didn’t bake the clay long enough?

    Another problem is using incompatible sealers/finishes on clay. Especially sprays…the propellants in them often have ingredients that react with the clay. They might seem to dry at first, but they get sticky after awhile…sometimes months later. If that happened, the sticky clay would affect the resin, too. [I'm just trying to help figure this out...it's a tough one!] ;D

    Reading your comments, it seems like you’re trying lots of different products & techniques. If you aren’t doing it already, it might be helpful to keep track of the exact products you’re using on each item…as well as how you’re applying them, techniques used, etc. Then if you have problems later, and ask Cindy or someone for help, you can tell them exactly what you did and how you did it. Terry’s been really helpful answering everyone’s resin questions, but it might make things easier if he knew the specifics of each problem (Cindy, too.) Otherwise, they have to start with general advice/rules first. Such as, make sure everything is clean…wipe with alcohol. This is important…Terry said that most resin cure problems can be traced back to chemicals, either left or added, to the surface being domed.

    Another “basic” is to make sure all of the resin gets exposed to UV…if it leaks under your stamps, paper items, or the edge of a bezel, the light can’t reach it. Without enough UV exposure, the resin won’t cure. Same thing goes with inclusions, like too much glitter…it limits exposure to the UV light, and the resin won’t cure completely. These are just a couple of things to look out for.

    There are lots of other tips, tricks, do’s & don’ts…spread over several “resin” threads here at the blog (just use the search box to find the others.) There’s also some Q & A at the Ultradome website. I hope you find the perfect way to make your projects, so you’ll end up with great results…and no more problems!
    Best of luck to you! ~Kat

    • Phaedrakat~ Hey, thanks for the early a.m. reply!!
      I think you are on to something,when you mentioned that maybe the resin
      seeped under something and never cured properly!! I actually had that plastic foil, that you rub onto the clay, and it looks metallic. Can’t think of what you call it, right now, but I do a technique where I heat the foil with a heat gun to cause the very top of the clay to harden. Then, after I peel away the foil, I pick up the piece and “crack” the piece, so that the foil looks like broken pieces. It sounds weird, but is a really cool effect. Then I bake the piece thoroughly. The resin was applied after all of that, and maybe some got under and never cured. Thus, 6 months later, a reaction with the clay and resin. See my URL. I’ll try to put the pic of the pendant that went awry, up there.
      Thanks for your insight!

  75. @Phraedrakat – Are you saying that if you use too much glitter in your clay that the UV resin will not cure properly? Or are you talking about using the glitter in the UV resin or on the surface of the clay? Please explain this just a little bit more. Thank you.

  76. @Debbie: Wow! You’ve got some really cool pendants…and I love the decorative knotting you used…makes for some wonderful necklaces! I also love your “Tri” theme. I didn’t see the pendant you referred to, but the I love the sound of that technique you used — pretty awesome! Did you post the pendant yet, or did I miss it? (I was awfully busy looking at the pretty & interesting things at your site…I even made note of the sports drink recipe, LOL!)

    I’m glad I ‘triggered’ something…& I hope it leads to a solution for you. I wanted to help, but I’m not super-experienced w/resin just yet. (I’ve done tons of research, though…& played with it enough to know I love the stuff!) If you provide a link to the pendant, hopefully Cindy…Terry…someone!…will have some advice on how to fix it. As for that foil you mentioned, did you mean Jones Tones…or maybe Lisa Pavelka’s Signature Series foils? Anyway, have fun, and best of luck with all of your projects! :~D
    ~Kat Riverside, CA

    @Carolyn: Glitter in resin…(for example) in a scenario like this: you used too much large-flake glitter, or didn’t mix it well enough. You’re left with a thick/heavy patch of glitter that “hides” the resin beneath it…where the UV light can’t reach. The resin below wouldn’t get enough UV exposure to cure properly. This would also depend on the thickness of the resin layer…and in some cases, the project itself.

    Yep, I s’pose I wasn’t completely clear…I was trying to trim down my “already-too-long” comment as much as possible (I know — still too long…) I wanted to cover a few ‘potential’ problems that can occur w/resin projects. There’s such an amazing array of cool things at an artist’s disposal…micro beads, stickers, glitter, fibers, Pearl-ex, etc. They all look good with resin, too…and they add so much when paired with our beloved polymer clay…

    • Phaedrakat,
      Sorry so long to get back to you!! Been getting more orders, lately, and need to make some more stock for my shop. But, that’s a good thing, right? !!
      In regards to my resin problem, would you believe it happened, again!
      A customer ordered a resin pendant, that I made @ 6 months ago, and I have all my jewelry stored in a jewelry briefcase. When I took it out to ship, again, the black clay, under the Jone’s Tones foil, had seeped thru in one spot.
      So, I had to rush to make a new pendant, as I couldn’ t send the defective one!! What a pain!!!!! You mentioned did I bake the clay long enough? Well, these pendants are about 1/4″ thick, and I bake for 1/2 hour. So, I think that’s enough, according to the package directions. I mostly use Premo clay, as is a bit softer and easier to condition.
      I have now switched over to using Ultra Dome resin. I got in on that offer, way back at the top of this page, for the 2 bottles. So far, it has cured nicely. Seems like it takes a little longer that the Magic Glos, but that’s OK.
      And, this last time, after I cured the UD in my UV light box, I even put it out in the sun for about an hour, just for more intense UV!!!
      I just pray my customer doesn’t contact me later to tell me the pendant is morphing out of control!!!! LOL!!!
      Oh, and I’m heading your way in April. Going to Oceanside…is that anywhere near you??

  77. I have some suggestions for saving money….
    When you get the tiny bubbles(that reminds me, is it cocktail time? !!) in your resin, you can just use a heat gun, like the type used for embossing.
    You don’t need to buy a torch if you already have a heat gun. It works very well. Most of the bubbles come to the surface, immediately.

    Another tip…. the Ultra Dome resin does not come with a “tip” on the little bottle, like the Magic Glos. So, I just use a paintbrush to apply. Because it is thick, you can apply, drop by drop, precisely where you need it. I don’t think dipping the brush into the UD bottle affects it in any way, and I then designate that paintbrush for only UD application. Works for me!!

  78. @Debbie Sosa Hi, Debbie! Congrats on getting more orders!!!!!!

    If you are using Premo! clay Cindy does recommend baking for at least one hour.

    Terry Morris (Ultra Dome) recommends wiping the surface with alcohol before applying UltraDome. This makes sure that there are no surface oils or foreign substances on the surface that could keep the UV resin from curing properly.

    If using a heat gun you must make sure there is absolutely no dust or other foreign matter that can get blown onto your UltraDomed pieces.

    • Carolyn~
      Thanks for your suggestions! I’ve never heard to bake Premo brand for 1 hour.
      I think I’ll bake the pieces I plan on using resin with, for an hour. I haven’t experienced a problem with my clay pieces that don’t have resin.
      Interesting, too, to wipe with alcohol before adding resin. I will absolutely try those tips for next time. I’ll keep you posted on results in the future. It’s always good to report issues with these complex materials, to benefit all of us poly clay artists out there!!
      I wish, though that the Ultra Dome had come with instructions. They might have suggested the alcohol tip. My little sample bottles only came with a business card that had a sample “dot” of resin on it!!

  79. I posted this on the blue morpho butterfly wing page but I’m reposting here as theres a lot of discussion going on about resin. I used the easy cast resin on some of the blue morpho butterfly wing pieces. That was the cane I did not blend enough. The pieces still look pretty but should have had more blue. I had this bottle of easy cast and am using it. Experimenting with the different types of resins. My Ultra Dome piece – which is in the competition has turned out the best. i did not have any bubbles or problems. I’ve tried Judikins fluxe enameling resin and thats messy. No mixing as it’s powder but you can put a bit too much and though it’s self levelling I did have it spill over. Also when I went to drill the hole to make it bigger, it cracked around the edge. I could lift the whole piece out and it got a bit yellow. I had to redo it after enlarging the hole. Yesterday I used Easy cast – it’s a bit messy as you have to keep pouring it from one container to the other. It degassed well, did not have any bubbles but I did have a bit spill over and it stuck to my kitchen shelf lining sheet. Have to sand off the back and put a thin layer for the blend and switch slices which are still too thin. It set well in a couple of hours without any oven. Any suggestions with the hole? I think I’m going to need to enlarge some of them to get the jump ring in but I hope they don’t crack. Also a couple of them pulled a wee bit away from the edge. Can I add some more to the edge? Will it cure and look one piece or will the ege look separate? I hope I am able to use them because they look quite good.

  80. @Cherie – If you want to put more on to cover the edges, you should recoat the entire piece, otherwise it will look separate.

    About the hole … use the smallest drills you can find and using a pin vise redrill the holes … use the smallest first and work your way up. If you try to just make a big hole in one step you will have cracking and breakage. Also I find that I drill from the backside, with my finger over the area on the front where it will come through. As soon as I feel the drill bit, I back the drill out, turn it over and then drill from the front. You do have to be cautious so that the drill bit doesn’t slip and scratch your UV resin.

    I’m not sure if this is the way Cindy would respond, but it’s the way I have found to do it and my work gets posted every so often so you can see the end result.

  81. @Debbie Sosa – Terry Morris, the one who developed our UltraDome UV resin, has several videos on his website showing how to use his products. If you have any other questions about his product you can email him directly and I am sure he will answer you. I’ve always found him to be very responsive.

  82. @Debbie Sosa – Terry Morris wraps a sheet of instructions around his business card in the package you receivred. If you do have the card you might have inadvertently thrown that sheet out with the packing.

    Did you watch Cindy’s video? That really makes instructions clear. Cindy is a master at explaining and showing processes that anyone can follow, but she never talks down to anyone, and even long time clayers learn from her.

  83. @ Carolyn- For the future what should I do to make sure the edges get covered too? Should I put the resin around the edges first and wait a bit and then cover the whole thing?

  84. @Cherie -This has been discussed before. It depends on which UV resin you are using. If it is Lisa Pavelka’s, yes, you’d do just what you said. Now UltraDome really does not pull away from the edges. Look again at Cindy’s video and see how she handles the edges with UltraDome. I don’t want to talk about it here because of not wanting to give away secrets. Cindy may love us but this is still her and Doug’s business. We want people to sign up in order to find out these special tips and tricks that Cindy shares with us. So … Happy viewing – or should I say re-viewing!

  85. Yes, I know Ultra Dome does not pull away. I was very happy with the pendant I did. Can’t post yet as its in the ‘Urban Chic’ competition. This is Easy Cast I had bought at Michaels. After it cured there’s a very fine line that has pulled away. So I think i will do the edges with a thin layer and then coat the whole slice.

  86. @Cherie – Does this Easy Cast require a UV lamp? I’ve never worked with it. If you are supposed to cure it under a UV light, be sure to cure the edge and then coat the entire piece and cure again.

  87. Easy Cast is not a UV Resin…no lamp required.

    Has anyone bought Easy Cast at Michael’s recently? I decided to try it, after hearing the decent reviews in this thread, and knowing I could use a coupon and have no shipping charges. But, they didn’t have any (a couple weeks ago.) They only had Envirotex Lite. I guess I’ll check my other local Michael’s, since the first is a “special” store…they carry special lines and products, especially jewelry, scrapbooking, and (something else?) products. It’s one of 50 out of the 1000+ Michael’s stores. On the other hand, this store does NOT carry some of the regular Michael’s stock. Luckily, I have both stores nearby…

  88. @ Carolyn- No, easy cast does not require an UV lamp. Just sits out for a couple of hours and its done. Mine came out well except that I have to do the edges – no problem with bubbles; i was careful with mixing.
    @ Kat – I thought Michaels did not have easy cast too as it was not with on the resin shelf. The resin shelf had envirotex lite. However, I just thought I’d ask the sales person and she looked around and it was on a different shelf on the other side of the aisle. So just check again and ask . It cost $ 19.00 without a coupon.
    I want to also try Judikins Gel de Soleil. That cures with a uv lamp and does not require mixing.

    • @Cherie: Thanks, Cherie, I’ll certainly try that! Oh man, I’m gonna feel pretty silly if the resin was behind me while I was looking at the Envirotex Lite! As for the Judikin’s, one of the members here did a review of three UV resins (Ultradome, Magic Glos, and Judikin’s Gel de Soleil.) Gera Scott Chandler…her name linked to the appropriate page, but I’m not sure what page it was on. If you Google her name + “resin” you’ll get the right page of her blog…and see what she had to say about that particular resin you want to try (I know she said something about shrinkage…)
      Thanks so much for the advice! ~Kat

      • @Sara: According to a couple sites where it’s sold, Judikin’s Gel du Soleil UV Epoxy is waterproof (and crystal clear.) Did you try it & have problems with water damage? Maybe it was one of Judikin’s many other different finishes instead? They have adhesives, glazes, gloss, resin, Art gel, etc. If it WAS the Gel du Soleil, let us know. False advertising — not cool! (And thanks…good to know!)

  89. Thanks, Cherie — I found it! It was right next to the Envirotex Lite, so I’m thinking they must have been out of stock last time. Anyway, now that ’tis the season, they are moving the store around. There are multiple locations for some items…EasyCast resin has a second location with the Christmas crafts! Thanks again, ~Kat

  90. …Speaking of resin at Michaels (OK, yeah — it’s been awhile since that convo)…I noticed they finally carry Magic Glos! I was surprised to see it, but they’ve actually added quite a few new Lisa Pavelka products to the clay aisle. Anyway, just an FYI…just in case you haven’t checked lately, and want to buy some UV resin at your “local”! ;D

    Next time, I’ll have to see if they have UV lamps, not that the sun’s been lacking lately!

  91. I would consider skipping buying the UV lamp from LP, or the one from UltraDome and searching for regular UV Lamps that professional nail artists use to cure nail gel with. I just got another one online for 31.00 (free shipping via Amazon.com) that is 36 watts and has timers as well as a non timer “on/off” switch. Usually they are marked as 3-way to have the timer-on/off option. You want the non timer version when possible so you don’t have to keep turning it on once the timer shuts it off.

    • @Shayla A: Thanks, Shayla…that’s a good buy from Amazon! I’ve had a nail-curing lamp on my “to buy” list for quite some time (it’s such a long list!) But after seeing they stock UV resin, I thought they might have lamps, too (and I thought I might get a good bargain with a 40 or 50% coupon!)

  92. I found a really good source for a very inexpensive UV light. Here’s the link:
    secure.sciencecompany.com/Search.aspx?
    k=Economy+Mini+UV+Blacklight+%2f+Flashlight

    I’m very far from the top of the page where you were discussing UltraDome. I have worked with epoxy resin. It yellows…I can live with that. Pretty much. But you really have to have a lot of things thought out very well beforehand or fixing it afterwards is a real DRAG!! and sometimes impossible.

    Anyway, hope this helps someone.

    MRS aka Michelle Stancil

  93. Hi, I have been using different types of resins and 3D glazes on small pendant tile photos and I keep getting an indent in the center of the resin/glazed photo after it dries, so I have been buying the epoxy stickers which are great but I can’t custom size them. I appreciate any help I can get with this problem. Thanks. Vivian

    • Hi Vivian, sorry to take so long to get back to you, but I have been swamped! A lot of brands of resin with pull up the sides or they will pull away from the edges of your piece. Either way they don’t look that nice when unless they are nice, smooth and preferably domed. I recommend you use Ultra Dome UV Resin. It domes beautifully and is inexpensive to use, once you buy the UV Lamp to cure it. I absolutely love it, and have done a few tutorials one it. Go up this thread and learn more about it. Once you use it, you won’t go back to the others!

  94. Cindy,

    Hi. How are you? I just came across your review of the Ultra Dome and am considering purchasing. My biggest problem with Magic Glos is that it pulls away from the edges when doming something with no sides. Have you had any experience with this that you can share? Also, I have a standard uv light (36W) and am not sure I can use this with the ultra dome. His light is rather pricey. Is it necessary to purchase or have you substituted something else?

    I look forward to hearing from you!

    Regards,
    Janice

    • Hi Janice, how nice to hear from you! I am fine… a little swamped but good. Hope you are well. I love the Ultradome product! It does not pull from the sides and goes on beautifully. I would recommend getting a 4 bulb lamp (36 Watt) from Terry on his EpoxyJewelry site rather than the larger lamps he has on his Ultradome site. I have one and it works beautifully. He calls the Ultradome ‘Jewelry Glaze’ on the epoxyjewelry.com site but it is the same product. And you will see that it is WAY cheaper than the Magic Glos (and a superior product imo). Let him know I sent you. He is a great guy to work with and I have been sending people his way for a few years now. I think you will love the stuff. Let me know what you think of it!

  95. I received my uv epoxy today from Ultra Dome. I have to say I really LOVE this product. Clean up is easy with rubbing alcohol. I’ve been using it on flat surfaces and it gets right on the edges (that Magic Glos failed to do). It does give you more bubbles, but I found moving a lit grill lighter over the bubble area to quickly pop them. No torch needed. The air gun will actually blow the epoxy around. It cured in my 36W uv light. at 20 minutes. Even if you make something flat, resin it over, you can then dome it and it looks beautiful. Thanks Cindy!

    • I know…. it’s good stuff Eh? That’s why I’ve been telling everyone about it all these years! Those bubbles will eventually be fewer, as your bottle gets a chance to sit for a bit. I use a BBQ Lighter to get rid of bubbles too. Let the pieces sit for a day or so to harden some more before playing with them too much though. I just found that the surface would dull a bit if you handled it too much right away. I have pieces that have been in heavy use for years (on a key ring in my purse) that look just as shiny as the day they were coated. The metal plating has worn off but the resin is just fine!

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