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	<title>Comments on: Soften Polymer Clay with Fimo Quick Mix</title>
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		<title>By: Natalie H</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-56301</link>
		<dc:creator>Natalie H</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 20 Dec 2011 17:55:01 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Hi Again
In video 4 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beadsandbeading.com/crse/01-more.html&quot;&gt;Beginners Course&lt;/a&gt; you talk about soften clay. I use the liquid softener because I could not find the other. I just a a drop and work it in. It seems to work OK.I just have to be careful not to put too much.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Again<br />
In video 4 of the <a  href="http://www.beadsandbeading.com/crse/01-more.html">Beginners Course</a> you talk about soften clay. I use the liquid softener because I could not find the other. I just a a drop and work it in. It seems to work OK.I just have to be careful not to put too much.</p>
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		<title>By: Cindy Lietz@kato Clay Strength Tests by Sue-F</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48268</link>
		<dc:creator>Cindy Lietz@kato Clay Strength Tests by Sue-F</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Apr 2011 23:23:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48268</guid>
		<description>@&lt;a href=&quot;#comment-48253&quot;&gt;Sue F&lt;/a&gt;: WOW!!! This is exactly the reason why we love you so much Sue! Not only are you willing to test something out immediately, but you are willing to document and share your detailed findings with all of us. As always, I am extremely impressed! Thank you so much!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@<a  href="#comment-48253">Sue F</a>: WOW!!! This is exactly the reason why we love you so much Sue! Not only are you willing to test something out immediately, but you are willing to document and share your detailed findings with all of us. As always, I am extremely impressed! Thank you so much!</p>
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		<title>By: Silverleaf</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48260</link>
		<dc:creator>Silverleaf</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Apr 2011 19:31:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48260</guid>
		<description>@&lt;a href=&quot;#comment-48253&quot;&gt;Sue F&lt;/a&gt;: Wow Sue, that&#039;s a lot of work! You really go above and beyond the call of duty, thanks. :)

I&#039;ve seen Quick Mix in the stores and never bothered to pick any up. I guess it&#039;s the name - it makes me think it&#039;s a lazy shortcut tool (rather than a &lt;i&gt;good&lt;/i&gt; shortcut) even though I know it&#039;s not really... if that makes sense! Mind you, I do tend to prefer the my clay firmer anyway (just not so much that I&#039;ll defect to Kato, lol) so I can&#039;t see myself using it. But it&#039;s definitely interesting to know what effect it has on the different brands of clay.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@<a  href="#comment-48253">Sue F</a>: Wow Sue, that&#8217;s a lot of work! You really go above and beyond the call of duty, thanks. :)</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve seen Quick Mix in the stores and never bothered to pick any up. I guess it&#8217;s the name &#8211; it makes me think it&#8217;s a lazy shortcut tool (rather than a <i>good</i> shortcut) even though I know it&#8217;s not really&#8230; if that makes sense! Mind you, I do tend to prefer the my clay firmer anyway (just not so much that I&#8217;ll defect to Kato, lol) so I can&#8217;t see myself using it. But it&#8217;s definitely interesting to know what effect it has on the different brands of clay.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Sue F</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48253</link>
		<dc:creator>Sue F</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Apr 2011 15:08:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48253</guid>
		<description>OK, I&#039;ve tested Fimo Mix Quick on its own, and also with Fimo Classic, Premo and Kato. Only one set of tests per brand so the results are only indicative, but still useful, I think.

To answer the immediate question about whether you can use it as a clay on its own, the practical answer is that you could but you probably wouldn&#039;t want to. Fimo Mix Quick is rather like a very soft and very sticky Fimo translucent. It&#039;s quite soft straight out of the packet and softens further with minimal handling, which with its stickiness makes it quite awkward to manage. You would need to be extra careful about avoiding fingerprints, dust, etc., and it would probably have problems holding its shape (needing support during curing, and not being able to be used for anything sculptural). On its own it exhibits a lot of plaquing when cured, and when cured at a temperature that prevents discolouration it&#039;s not particularly strong either. It&#039;s reasonably flexible when cured, but not super-bendy.

It definitely couldn&#039;t be used like the white clay Stephanie L initially mistook it for.

It does seem to be compatible with Premo and Kato as well as Fimo, somewhat to my surprise on the Kato front from what I&#039;d heard elsewhere.

The gorey details follow for the curious.


&lt;b&gt;Testing Process&lt;/b&gt;

I cured a sample of Fimo Mix Quick on its own.

For each clay tested, I made the following samples:
-  A control sample of the clay on its own
-  A mix of 7 parts clay to 1 part Mix Quick (i.e. 1/8 Mix Quick)
-  A mix of 2 parts clay to 1 part Mix Quick (i.e. 1/3 Mix Quick, the usual proportion according to the Mix Quick instructions)
-  A mix of 1 part clay to 1 part Mix Quick (i.e. 1/2 Mix Quick, the maximum proportion of Mix Quick according to its instructions)
-  A mix of 1 part clay to 2 parts Mix Quick (i.e. 2/3 Mix Quick, more than the maximum according to the instructions, just to see what happened)

All samples were rolled at #3 on my pasta machine and cut with the same medium-size rectangular cutter.


&lt;b&gt;General Observations&lt;/b&gt;

I didn&#039;t do objective testing of the softening ability (e.g. by starting with standard size solids of the various mixes and seeing how much they deformed when a standard weight was placed on them for a standard time), but subjectively the Mix Quick seemed to soften all clays fairly equally in that it moved the consistency -- and stickiness!!! -- of the mixture from the clay&#039;s own consistency to the consistency of the Mix Quick in line with the ratio of the two components. That is, there were no weird reactions that caused the combinations to either fail to soften, to stiffen up, or to soften more than the components individually were.

Clay mixtures that were 1/2 Mix Quick or more were soft to very soft, and very sticky, i.e. probably not practical consistencies.

In the uncured state, colours were noticeably diluted in mixes that were 1/2 Mix Quick or more. After curing things varied by clay brand and are covered in the relevant sections below.


&lt;b&gt;Fimo Mix Quick Alone&lt;/b&gt;

Quite soft initially, softens further very quickly as you handle it. Very sticky!

An initial sample was cured on a thick ceramic tile, at 110C for 35 minutes (the recommendation on Mix Quick and Fimo Classic packetsm plus an extra 5 minutes time to allow for the tile heating up).

When cured, it was fairly translucent with no noticeable discolouration, although my cured sample showed quite a lot of plaquing. It was also fairly flexible when tested with small twisting movements, but not all that much more so than the pure Fimo Classic sample cured at the same time.

When I tried my bend test for gauging strength, however, it snapped at the first bend. Yikes!

So I repeated the test, but this time curing at 130C for 35 minutes. At this higher temperature there was some discolouration, i.e. the pure Mix Quick sample had browned and darkened a bit so that it looked rather like Premo Frost&#039;s colour instead of being white. It was still fairly translucent (although slightly less so than the 110C sample), still had a lot of plaquing, and was fairly flexible when subject to small twisting motions.

When I tried by bend test on this second sample, it snapped/broke at the 15th bend. Not too bad.


&lt;b&gt;Fimo Mix Quick with Fimo Classic&lt;/b&gt;

I have the US version of Fimo Classic, so it&#039;s not particularly stiff to start with.

At the recommended 1/3 Mix Quick, the clay felt similar during handling to current Premo.

By the time I tried the over-maximum rate of 2/3 Mix Quick, the combination was soft and so sticky that it was difficult to handle, i.e. it got stuck to the bottom of the pasta machine instead of feeding out nicely.

In the uncured state, the clay&#039;s colour appeared diluted at 1/2 Mix Quick and quite diluted at 2/3 Mix Quick. When cured this was not really noticeable, however.

An initial set of samples were cured on a thick ceramic tile, at 110C for 35 minutes (the recommendation on Fimo Classic packets plus an extra 5 minutes time to allow for the tile heating up).

The cured samples were flexible when subjected to small twisting movements. However, the sample with the most Mix Quick was not much more flexible than the sample with no Mix Quick.

When I tried by bend test for gauging strength, &lt;i&gt;all&lt;/i&gt; samples snapped at the first bend. Yikes again! (But not caused by Mix Quick because the control sample of pure Fimo Classic broke at the first bend too.)

From other tests I figured the curing temperature was too low, so made a second set and cured this lot at 130C for 35 minutes. The bend test results for this second set of samples were as follows:

Pure Fimo Classic - Almost fully cracked at 4th bend, snapped at 6th.
1/8 Mix Quick - Almost fully cracked at 3rd bend, snapped at 4th.
1/3 Mix Quick - Cracked noticeably at 4th bend, almost fully cracked at 6th, snapped at 12th.
1/2 Mix Quick - Cracked noticeably at 5th bend, almost fully cracked at 12th bend, broken at 16th (not so much a &quot;snap&quot; now).
2/3 Mix Quick - Cracked noticeably at 5th bend, almost fully cracked at 12th bend, broken at 18th (not so much a &quot;snap&quot; now).

So the higher temperature definitely helped the strength, and the slight increase in flexibility given by the Mix Quick delayed the point at which the samples snapped or broke.


&lt;b&gt;Fimo Mix Quick with Premo&lt;/b&gt;

I used the firmest Premo I had for this round of testing; it wasn&#039;t as firm as the Fimo Classic I used in the previous tests, although it was certainly firmer than the current product.

The 1/2 Mix Quick mixture was sticky and soft, and the 2/3 Mix Quick mixture was very sticky and soft.

In the uncured state, the clay&#039;s colour appeared quite diluted in the 1/2 Mix Quick and 2/3 Mix Quick mixtures.

Samples were cured on a thick ceramic tile, at 130C for 60 minutes (i.e. how I&#039;d usually cure Premo pieces of that size).

After curing, all the samples with Mix Quick showed some discolouration, being slightly but noticeably darker and &quot;dirtier&quot;. Interestingly, the sample with the &lt;i&gt;least&lt;/i&gt; Mix Quick showed the &lt;i&gt;most&lt;/i&gt; apparent discolouration, but I think this was because the increasing dilution of the clay&#039;s colour counteracted the darkening, progressing through the other samples. The sample with the most Mix Quick seemed very much more translucent than the control sample, and had quite noticeable plaquing; some plaquing was also visible in the 1/2 Mix Quick sample.

There wasn&#039;t any significant difference in flexibility when the samples were subjected to small twisting motions (Premo is pretty flexible when cured anyway).

The bend test results on these samples were as follows:

Pure Premo - Snapped at first bend (I guess I should go &quot;Yikes!&quot; again here, for consistency ;D).
1/8 Mix Quick - Almost fully cracked at 3rd bend, snapped at 4th.
1/3 Mix Quick - Almost fully cracked at 3rd bend, snapped at 4th.
1/2 Mix Quick - Almost fully cracked at 3rd bend, almost fully disconnected at 4th, snapped at 5th.
2/3 Mix Quick - Cracked noticeably at 3rd bend, almost fully cracked at 5rd bend, snapped at 6th.

So these samples are stronger than the Fimo Classic cured at its recommended time and temperature, but not quite as strong as the Fimo Classic samples cured at an elevated temperature. (To be fair I should probably have tested Premo samples cured at &lt;i&gt;its&lt;/i&gt; recommended time and temperature instead of the increased curing time I used here... maybe some other time when I&#039;m not as busy!) Again, the slightly increased flexibility imparted by the Mix Quick seemed to delay the point at which the samples snapped or broke, but not to the same degree as with the Fimo Classic.


&lt;b&gt;Fimo Mix Quick with Kato&lt;/b&gt;

The 1/2 Mix Quick mixture was sticky and soft, and the 2/3 Mix Quick mixture was very sticky and soft.

In the uncured state, the clay&#039;s colour appeared quite diluted at 1/2 Mix Quick and 2/3 Mix Quick.

Samples were cured on a thick ceramic tile, at 150C for 40 minutes (i.e. how I&#039;d usually cure Kato pieces of that size).

There was no discolouration after curing in most samples. The 1/2 Mix Quick sample was &lt;i&gt;very slightly&lt;/i&gt; discoloured, i.e. only noticeable if compared closely to the others. However the sample with 2/3 Mix Quick was slightly but noticeably browner, the original colour definitely looked a bit diluted, and some plaquing was also visible in addition to a slightly more translucent appearance (not as marked as with Premo, however).

After curing, the samples with Mix Quick were increasingly more flexible as the proportion of Mix Quick increased, but none were super flexible.

The bend test results on these samples were as follows:

Pure Kato - Survived more than 600 bends... I got tired of bending it at that point! The sample was partially worn through as instead of a quick snap there&#039;s damage that builds up slowly, but even after 600 bends it still took a fair amount of force and a slight twisting/tearing motion to then pull the pieces apart.
1/8 Mix Quick - Survived more than 600 bends. At 600 bends there was a bit more damage than there was to the pure Kato sample at the same point, but still pretty good.
1/3 Mix Quick - Survived more than 600 bends. At 600 bends there was a bit more visible damange than there was to the pure Kato sample at the same point. However, when I tried to break it the rest of the way by pulling the two pieces apart it was probably even more difficult than with the pure Kato, and definitely required a twisting/tearing motion.
1/2 Mix Quick - Survived more than 600 bends. As for 1/3 Mix Quick, i.e. slightly more of a twisting/tearing motion than for 1/3 Mix Quick required to break the sample the rest of the way.
2/3 Mix Quick - Survived more than 600 bends. As for 1/2 Mix Quick, i.e. slightly more of a twisting/tearing motion than for 1/2 Mix Quick required to break the sample the rest of the way.

So, much to my surprise, Fimo Mix Quick was pretty good with Kato, although I now want to do expansion/contraction tests which might explain contradictory reports I&#039;ve heard. Kato is so much stronger than the other clays during the bend test that it&#039;s slightly ridiculous, and I wish I&#039;d picked a smaller number than 600 bends to stop at because I was &lt;i&gt;really&lt;/i&gt; sick of bending bits of clay by the time I&#039;d finished with all of the samples! LOL  Mix Quick&#039;s slightly increased flexibility changed the nature of the force required to complete breaking each sample after 600 bends, and very slightly increased it. However the increased flexibility is not necessarily good in a finished item, e.g. if it is hollow or open, and truly excellent strength was observed even in the most rigid sample.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>OK, I&#8217;ve tested Fimo Mix Quick on its own, and also with Fimo Classic, Premo and Kato. Only one set of tests per brand so the results are only indicative, but still useful, I think.</p>
<p>To answer the immediate question about whether you can use it as a clay on its own, the practical answer is that you could but you probably wouldn&#8217;t want to. Fimo Mix Quick is rather like a very soft and very sticky Fimo translucent. It&#8217;s quite soft straight out of the packet and softens further with minimal handling, which with its stickiness makes it quite awkward to manage. You would need to be extra careful about avoiding fingerprints, dust, etc., and it would probably have problems holding its shape (needing support during curing, and not being able to be used for anything sculptural). On its own it exhibits a lot of plaquing when cured, and when cured at a temperature that prevents discolouration it&#8217;s not particularly strong either. It&#8217;s reasonably flexible when cured, but not super-bendy.</p>
<p>It definitely couldn&#8217;t be used like the white clay Stephanie L initially mistook it for.</p>
<p>It does seem to be compatible with Premo and Kato as well as Fimo, somewhat to my surprise on the Kato front from what I&#8217;d heard elsewhere.</p>
<p>The gorey details follow for the curious.</p>
<p><b>Testing Process</b></p>
<p>I cured a sample of Fimo Mix Quick on its own.</p>
<p>For each clay tested, I made the following samples:<br />
-  A control sample of the clay on its own<br />
-  A mix of 7 parts clay to 1 part Mix Quick (i.e. 1/8 Mix Quick)<br />
-  A mix of 2 parts clay to 1 part Mix Quick (i.e. 1/3 Mix Quick, the usual proportion according to the Mix Quick instructions)<br />
-  A mix of 1 part clay to 1 part Mix Quick (i.e. 1/2 Mix Quick, the maximum proportion of Mix Quick according to its instructions)<br />
-  A mix of 1 part clay to 2 parts Mix Quick (i.e. 2/3 Mix Quick, more than the maximum according to the instructions, just to see what happened)</p>
<p>All samples were rolled at #3 on my pasta machine and cut with the same medium-size rectangular cutter.</p>
<p><b>General Observations</b></p>
<p>I didn&#8217;t do objective testing of the softening ability (e.g. by starting with standard size solids of the various mixes and seeing how much they deformed when a standard weight was placed on them for a standard time), but subjectively the Mix Quick seemed to soften all clays fairly equally in that it moved the consistency &#8212; and stickiness!!! &#8212; of the mixture from the clay&#8217;s own consistency to the consistency of the Mix Quick in line with the ratio of the two components. That is, there were no weird reactions that caused the combinations to either fail to soften, to stiffen up, or to soften more than the components individually were.</p>
<p>Clay mixtures that were 1/2 Mix Quick or more were soft to very soft, and very sticky, i.e. probably not practical consistencies.</p>
<p>In the uncured state, colours were noticeably diluted in mixes that were 1/2 Mix Quick or more. After curing things varied by clay brand and are covered in the relevant sections below.</p>
<p><b>Fimo Mix Quick Alone</b></p>
<p>Quite soft initially, softens further very quickly as you handle it. Very sticky!</p>
<p>An initial sample was cured on a thick ceramic tile, at 110C for 35 minutes (the recommendation on Mix Quick and Fimo Classic packetsm plus an extra 5 minutes time to allow for the tile heating up).</p>
<p>When cured, it was fairly translucent with no noticeable discolouration, although my cured sample showed quite a lot of plaquing. It was also fairly flexible when tested with small twisting movements, but not all that much more so than the pure Fimo Classic sample cured at the same time.</p>
<p>When I tried my bend test for gauging strength, however, it snapped at the first bend. Yikes!</p>
<p>So I repeated the test, but this time curing at 130C for 35 minutes. At this higher temperature there was some discolouration, i.e. the pure Mix Quick sample had browned and darkened a bit so that it looked rather like Premo Frost&#8217;s colour instead of being white. It was still fairly translucent (although slightly less so than the 110C sample), still had a lot of plaquing, and was fairly flexible when subject to small twisting motions.</p>
<p>When I tried by bend test on this second sample, it snapped/broke at the 15th bend. Not too bad.</p>
<p><b>Fimo Mix Quick with Fimo Classic</b></p>
<p>I have the US version of Fimo Classic, so it&#8217;s not particularly stiff to start with.</p>
<p>At the recommended 1/3 Mix Quick, the clay felt similar during handling to current Premo.</p>
<p>By the time I tried the over-maximum rate of 2/3 Mix Quick, the combination was soft and so sticky that it was difficult to handle, i.e. it got stuck to the bottom of the pasta machine instead of feeding out nicely.</p>
<p>In the uncured state, the clay&#8217;s colour appeared diluted at 1/2 Mix Quick and quite diluted at 2/3 Mix Quick. When cured this was not really noticeable, however.</p>
<p>An initial set of samples were cured on a thick ceramic tile, at 110C for 35 minutes (the recommendation on Fimo Classic packets plus an extra 5 minutes time to allow for the tile heating up).</p>
<p>The cured samples were flexible when subjected to small twisting movements. However, the sample with the most Mix Quick was not much more flexible than the sample with no Mix Quick.</p>
<p>When I tried by bend test for gauging strength, <i>all</i> samples snapped at the first bend. Yikes again! (But not caused by Mix Quick because the control sample of pure Fimo Classic broke at the first bend too.)</p>
<p>From other tests I figured the curing temperature was too low, so made a second set and cured this lot at 130C for 35 minutes. The bend test results for this second set of samples were as follows:</p>
<p>Pure Fimo Classic &#8211; Almost fully cracked at 4th bend, snapped at 6th.<br />
1/8 Mix Quick &#8211; Almost fully cracked at 3rd bend, snapped at 4th.<br />
1/3 Mix Quick &#8211; Cracked noticeably at 4th bend, almost fully cracked at 6th, snapped at 12th.<br />
1/2 Mix Quick &#8211; Cracked noticeably at 5th bend, almost fully cracked at 12th bend, broken at 16th (not so much a &#8220;snap&#8221; now).<br />
2/3 Mix Quick &#8211; Cracked noticeably at 5th bend, almost fully cracked at 12th bend, broken at 18th (not so much a &#8220;snap&#8221; now).</p>
<p>So the higher temperature definitely helped the strength, and the slight increase in flexibility given by the Mix Quick delayed the point at which the samples snapped or broke.</p>
<p><b>Fimo Mix Quick with Premo</b></p>
<p>I used the firmest Premo I had for this round of testing; it wasn&#8217;t as firm as the Fimo Classic I used in the previous tests, although it was certainly firmer than the current product.</p>
<p>The 1/2 Mix Quick mixture was sticky and soft, and the 2/3 Mix Quick mixture was very sticky and soft.</p>
<p>In the uncured state, the clay&#8217;s colour appeared quite diluted in the 1/2 Mix Quick and 2/3 Mix Quick mixtures.</p>
<p>Samples were cured on a thick ceramic tile, at 130C for 60 minutes (i.e. how I&#8217;d usually cure Premo pieces of that size).</p>
<p>After curing, all the samples with Mix Quick showed some discolouration, being slightly but noticeably darker and &#8220;dirtier&#8221;. Interestingly, the sample with the <i>least</i> Mix Quick showed the <i>most</i> apparent discolouration, but I think this was because the increasing dilution of the clay&#8217;s colour counteracted the darkening, progressing through the other samples. The sample with the most Mix Quick seemed very much more translucent than the control sample, and had quite noticeable plaquing; some plaquing was also visible in the 1/2 Mix Quick sample.</p>
<p>There wasn&#8217;t any significant difference in flexibility when the samples were subjected to small twisting motions (Premo is pretty flexible when cured anyway).</p>
<p>The bend test results on these samples were as follows:</p>
<p>Pure Premo &#8211; Snapped at first bend (I guess I should go &#8220;Yikes!&#8221; again here, for consistency ;D).<br />
1/8 Mix Quick &#8211; Almost fully cracked at 3rd bend, snapped at 4th.<br />
1/3 Mix Quick &#8211; Almost fully cracked at 3rd bend, snapped at 4th.<br />
1/2 Mix Quick &#8211; Almost fully cracked at 3rd bend, almost fully disconnected at 4th, snapped at 5th.<br />
2/3 Mix Quick &#8211; Cracked noticeably at 3rd bend, almost fully cracked at 5rd bend, snapped at 6th.</p>
<p>So these samples are stronger than the Fimo Classic cured at its recommended time and temperature, but not quite as strong as the Fimo Classic samples cured at an elevated temperature. (To be fair I should probably have tested Premo samples cured at <i>its</i> recommended time and temperature instead of the increased curing time I used here&#8230; maybe some other time when I&#8217;m not as busy!) Again, the slightly increased flexibility imparted by the Mix Quick seemed to delay the point at which the samples snapped or broke, but not to the same degree as with the Fimo Classic.</p>
<p><b>Fimo Mix Quick with Kato</b></p>
<p>The 1/2 Mix Quick mixture was sticky and soft, and the 2/3 Mix Quick mixture was very sticky and soft.</p>
<p>In the uncured state, the clay&#8217;s colour appeared quite diluted at 1/2 Mix Quick and 2/3 Mix Quick.</p>
<p>Samples were cured on a thick ceramic tile, at 150C for 40 minutes (i.e. how I&#8217;d usually cure Kato pieces of that size).</p>
<p>There was no discolouration after curing in most samples. The 1/2 Mix Quick sample was <i>very slightly</i> discoloured, i.e. only noticeable if compared closely to the others. However the sample with 2/3 Mix Quick was slightly but noticeably browner, the original colour definitely looked a bit diluted, and some plaquing was also visible in addition to a slightly more translucent appearance (not as marked as with Premo, however).</p>
<p>After curing, the samples with Mix Quick were increasingly more flexible as the proportion of Mix Quick increased, but none were super flexible.</p>
<p>The bend test results on these samples were as follows:</p>
<p>Pure Kato &#8211; Survived more than 600 bends&#8230; I got tired of bending it at that point! The sample was partially worn through as instead of a quick snap there&#8217;s damage that builds up slowly, but even after 600 bends it still took a fair amount of force and a slight twisting/tearing motion to then pull the pieces apart.<br />
1/8 Mix Quick &#8211; Survived more than 600 bends. At 600 bends there was a bit more damage than there was to the pure Kato sample at the same point, but still pretty good.<br />
1/3 Mix Quick &#8211; Survived more than 600 bends. At 600 bends there was a bit more visible damange than there was to the pure Kato sample at the same point. However, when I tried to break it the rest of the way by pulling the two pieces apart it was probably even more difficult than with the pure Kato, and definitely required a twisting/tearing motion.<br />
1/2 Mix Quick &#8211; Survived more than 600 bends. As for 1/3 Mix Quick, i.e. slightly more of a twisting/tearing motion than for 1/3 Mix Quick required to break the sample the rest of the way.<br />
2/3 Mix Quick &#8211; Survived more than 600 bends. As for 1/2 Mix Quick, i.e. slightly more of a twisting/tearing motion than for 1/2 Mix Quick required to break the sample the rest of the way.</p>
<p>So, much to my surprise, Fimo Mix Quick was pretty good with Kato, although I now want to do expansion/contraction tests which might explain contradictory reports I&#8217;ve heard. Kato is so much stronger than the other clays during the bend test that it&#8217;s slightly ridiculous, and I wish I&#8217;d picked a smaller number than 600 bends to stop at because I was <i>really</i> sick of bending bits of clay by the time I&#8217;d finished with all of the samples! LOL  Mix Quick&#8217;s slightly increased flexibility changed the nature of the force required to complete breaking each sample after 600 bends, and very slightly increased it. However the increased flexibility is not necessarily good in a finished item, e.g. if it is hollow or open, and truly excellent strength was observed even in the most rigid sample.</p>
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		<title>By: Sue F</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48245</link>
		<dc:creator>Sue F</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Apr 2011 03:41:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48245</guid>
		<description>While I haven&#039;t actually &lt;i&gt;tried&lt;/i&gt; using Fimo Mix Quick on its own, or even as a clay softener (I almost never want to soften clay... I want to firm it up instead!), I do have a packet. The packet says:

&lt;i&gt;&quot;Use 1/3 normally, never more than 1/2. Add only as much as necessary.&quot;&lt;/i&gt;

So at least theoretically it can&#039;t be used as a clay on its own.

When I have time I&#039;ll do some testing, on its own and with various clay brands including Premo and Kato. When I tested &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/conditioning-how-to-polymer-clay-tools-techniques-and-instructions/442/#comment-47512&quot;&gt;Glycerin&lt;/a&gt;, for example, I found that it softens Fimo very effectively but is ineffective-to-appalling with Premo and Kato. I have a suspicion that Mix Quick is not good with Kato, at least, but I do want to try it for myself.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>While I haven&#8217;t actually <i>tried</i> using Fimo Mix Quick on its own, or even as a clay softener (I almost never want to soften clay&#8230; I want to firm it up instead!), I do have a packet. The packet says:</p>
<p><i>&#8220;Use 1/3 normally, never more than 1/2. Add only as much as necessary.&#8221;</i></p>
<p>So at least theoretically it can&#8217;t be used as a clay on its own.</p>
<p>When I have time I&#8217;ll do some testing, on its own and with various clay brands including Premo and Kato. When I tested <a  href="http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/conditioning-how-to-polymer-clay-tools-techniques-and-instructions/442/#comment-47512">Glycerin</a>, for example, I found that it softens Fimo very effectively but is ineffective-to-appalling with Premo and Kato. I have a suspicion that Mix Quick is not good with Kato, at least, but I do want to try it for myself.</p>
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		<title>By: Phaedrakat</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48240</link>
		<dc:creator>Phaedrakat</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Apr 2011 02:03:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48240</guid>
		<description>@&lt;a href=&quot;#comment-48221&quot;&gt;Stephanie L&lt;/a&gt;: I&#039;m eager to hear the answer to your question, too. I&#039;ve never been able to find Mix Quick on the shelves anywhere...I&#039;ve had to use other things to soften my old clay. 

There&#039;s a similar question about &lt;a href=&quot;#comment-2768&quot;&gt;using Mix Quick as a clay&lt;/a&gt; above, but no one has mentioned actually trying it. Since it IS a plasticizer, it seems like it would be quite (too?) soft to work with by itself. Also, I&#039;m guessing that it would be super flexible after baking...but again, just a guess since I&#039;ve no firsthand experience with it. You need proper answers from someone who&#039;s actually touched the stuff, of course! ;D Hopefully, someone will leave a comment here soon with some good info for ya...

If it turns out the Mix Quick is of no use to you, perhaps you could trade someone for some regular clay (or maybe even sell it!) Seems like someone would be up for it...most clayers have some old crumbly, hard clay that needs softening up! Good luck to you~ :D</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@<a  href="#comment-48221">Stephanie L</a>: I&#8217;m eager to hear the answer to your question, too. I&#8217;ve never been able to find Mix Quick on the shelves anywhere&#8230;I&#8217;ve had to use other things to soften my old clay. </p>
<p>There&#8217;s a similar question about <a  href="#comment-2768">using Mix Quick as a clay</a> above, but no one has mentioned actually trying it. Since it IS a plasticizer, it seems like it would be quite (too?) soft to work with by itself. Also, I&#8217;m guessing that it would be super flexible after baking&#8230;but again, just a guess since I&#8217;ve no firsthand experience with it. You need proper answers from someone who&#8217;s actually touched the stuff, of course! ;D Hopefully, someone will leave a comment here soon with some good info for ya&#8230;</p>
<p>If it turns out the Mix Quick is of no use to you, perhaps you could trade someone for some regular clay (or maybe even sell it!) Seems like someone would be up for it&#8230;most clayers have some old crumbly, hard clay that needs softening up! Good luck to you~ :D</p>
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		<title>By: Stephanie L</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48221</link>
		<dc:creator>Stephanie L</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 11 Apr 2011 19:25:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-48221</guid>
		<description>Hi Cindy, can fimo quick mix be used as a white colour on its own? I purchased it thinking it was a large slab of white clay and only realized after opening it wasn&#039;t what I thought it to be. Thank you :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Cindy, can fimo quick mix be used as a white colour on its own? I purchased it thinking it was a large slab of white clay and only realized after opening it wasn&#8217;t what I thought it to be. Thank you :)</p>
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		<title>By: Heather Graef</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-40839</link>
		<dc:creator>Heather Graef</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 16:12:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-40839</guid>
		<description>@&lt;a href=&quot;#comment-40835&quot;&gt;Phaedrakat&lt;/a&gt;: Thanks for your comment. After I wrote my post, the weather got even hotter and my clay became even more hard. I&#039;ll see if my pasta roller will handle any of it. If I find any more specific info about curing temps I&#039;ll post. Suffice to say, the temps in central California last week were in the upper 90&#039;s-100&#039;s so to any other polymer clay newbies BEWARE OF WORKING IN THE HEAT! Thank goodness I&#039;m back home under a blanket of summer fog of the San Francisco Bay Area -- and I will be storing in my refrigerator from now on!  : )

&lt;strong&gt;-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just A Quick FYI...&lt;/strong&gt; there is currently a &lt;em&gt;technical bug&lt;/em&gt; happening with the &quot;Reply&quot; function here at the blog. When you use it, your comments are temporarily held in the moderation queue, pending approval. This is not supposed to happen, and it will be fixed soon. But for now, it would be helpful if everyone could refrain from clicking on that little &quot;Reply&quot; link. Instead, you can simply reference others by manually typing their name... like @Phaedrakat [or] @Heather Graef [or] @Cindy: [etc, etc.]. This way your comments will post in real time, without any delay. Thank you all. &lt;strong&gt;~Doug
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;/strong&gt;</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@<a  href="#comment-40835">Phaedrakat</a>: Thanks for your comment. After I wrote my post, the weather got even hotter and my clay became even more hard. I&#8217;ll see if my pasta roller will handle any of it. If I find any more specific info about curing temps I&#8217;ll post. Suffice to say, the temps in central California last week were in the upper 90&#8242;s-100&#8242;s so to any other polymer clay newbies BEWARE OF WORKING IN THE HEAT! Thank goodness I&#8217;m back home under a blanket of summer fog of the San Francisco Bay Area &#8212; and I will be storing in my refrigerator from now on!  : )</p>
<p><strong>&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211;<br />
Just A Quick FYI&#8230;</strong> there is currently a <em>technical bug</em> happening with the &#8220;Reply&#8221; function here at the blog. When you use it, your comments are temporarily held in the moderation queue, pending approval. This is not supposed to happen, and it will be fixed soon. But for now, it would be helpful if everyone could refrain from clicking on that little &#8220;Reply&#8221; link. Instead, you can simply reference others by manually typing their name&#8230; like @Phaedrakat [or] @Heather Graef [or] @Cindy: [etc, etc.]. This way your comments will post in real time, without any delay. Thank you all. <strong>~Doug<br />
&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211;</strong></p>
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		<title>By: Phaedrakat</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-40835</link>
		<dc:creator>Phaedrakat</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 12:53:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-40835</guid>
		<description>@Heather: Hi! Sorry that happened to you! I saw your comment the other day before I headed out, and did a quick search of the blog for the ‘numbers’ you wanted...but couldn&#039;t find specifics. At Michaels, though, I saw a mixed media book; it said polymer clay begins to cure at 90 degrees F. I read something else that says curing starts ‘just above body temp’…sounds about right, considering what happened to you and so many others! It doesn&#039;t seem to take much time at those temps to partially cure…even faster if you’re talking direct sunlight! If you consider that it only takes 20 min. in the oven at perfect curing temps, it probably doesn’t take too much longer to &lt;i&gt;partially&lt;/i&gt; cure at &lt;i&gt;lower&lt;/i&gt; temps. If you want precise info, your best bet would be to contact the clay manufacturer. I know Polyform (Premo, Sculpey III, etc.) tries to return emails pretty quickly...I would imagine the other manufacturers would attempt the same!

Once your clay begins to cure, it&#039;s not quite as useful anymore (of course!) So storage is very important if there’s a chance your clay will be exposed to higher temps. I’ve seen numerous comments on this blog about people storing their clay in the refrigerator or freezer. As long as you seal it in a compatible bag, your clay -- and food ;D -- should be safe. I don’t know if it will keep it from getting ‘old’…but it will keep it from accidentally curing.

Clay tends to get ‘old’ because some plasticizers have leached out. Proper storage in the correct plastic wrap/containers will go a long way to prevent this from happening. If you haven’t done so, check out the storage info in Cindy’s Beginner’s/Basics Course, as well as here at the blog. 

I’m happy to hear you crumbled up those bits &amp; made something you like! That’s one of those amazing things about polymer clay…nothing ever really gets wasted (and so many beautiful things are created, of course.) Sorry I wasn’t able to help find you any specific rules or clay temperatures. If you get some from the clay manufacturer, please share with everyone (so they&#039;re here next time someone asks…) ;~D Have a great day! :~)
~Kat</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@Heather: Hi! Sorry that happened to you! I saw your comment the other day before I headed out, and did a quick search of the blog for the ‘numbers’ you wanted&#8230;but couldn&#8217;t find specifics. At Michaels, though, I saw a mixed media book; it said polymer clay begins to cure at 90 degrees F. I read something else that says curing starts ‘just above body temp’…sounds about right, considering what happened to you and so many others! It doesn&#8217;t seem to take much time at those temps to partially cure…even faster if you’re talking direct sunlight! If you consider that it only takes 20 min. in the oven at perfect curing temps, it probably doesn’t take too much longer to <i>partially</i> cure at <i>lower</i> temps. If you want precise info, your best bet would be to contact the clay manufacturer. I know Polyform (Premo, Sculpey III, etc.) tries to return emails pretty quickly&#8230;I would imagine the other manufacturers would attempt the same!</p>
<p>Once your clay begins to cure, it&#8217;s not quite as useful anymore (of course!) So storage is very important if there’s a chance your clay will be exposed to higher temps. I’ve seen numerous comments on this blog about people storing their clay in the refrigerator or freezer. As long as you seal it in a compatible bag, your clay &#8212; and food ;D &#8212; should be safe. I don’t know if it will keep it from getting ‘old’…but it will keep it from accidentally curing.</p>
<p>Clay tends to get ‘old’ because some plasticizers have leached out. Proper storage in the correct plastic wrap/containers will go a long way to prevent this from happening. If you haven’t done so, check out the storage info in Cindy’s Beginner’s/Basics Course, as well as here at the blog. </p>
<p>I’m happy to hear you crumbled up those bits &amp; made something you like! That’s one of those amazing things about polymer clay…nothing ever really gets wasted (and so many beautiful things are created, of course.) Sorry I wasn’t able to help find you any specific rules or clay temperatures. If you get some from the clay manufacturer, please share with everyone (so they&#8217;re here next time someone asks…) ;~D Have a great day! :~)<br />
~Kat</p>
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		<title>By: Heather</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-40661</link>
		<dc:creator>Heather</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Aug 2010 19:17:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/soften-polymer-clay-fimo-quick-mix/27/#comment-40661</guid>
		<description>I made the mistake of working outside on a hot day, and a bunch of my clay has become a little hard/crumbly. How long do  you suppose it takes to partially cure the clay when its out in hot weather (i.e. 1/2 hour, 2 hours, etc.)? Also, not mentioned in this post is the ideal temp to store the clay. Is it a good idea to refrigerate in a sealed bag? Would that prevent clay from getting &quot;old&quot;? BTW I did chop up the crumbly bits and mixed in with soft clay...like the effect, so all is not lost. Thanks. ~Heather</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I made the mistake of working outside on a hot day, and a bunch of my clay has become a little hard/crumbly. How long do  you suppose it takes to partially cure the clay when its out in hot weather (i.e. 1/2 hour, 2 hours, etc.)? Also, not mentioned in this post is the ideal temp to store the clay. Is it a good idea to refrigerate in a sealed bag? Would that prevent clay from getting &#8220;old&#8221;? BTW I did chop up the crumbly bits and mixed in with soft clay&#8230;like the effect, so all is not lost. Thanks. ~Heather</p>
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