Comments on: Shiny Beads – 6 Tips for Getting a Polymer Clay Gloss Finish

By: Phaedrakat

Phaedrakat — Sat, 16 Oct 2010 11:07:52 +0000

@Becky C.: Smart thinking, putting the machine to work for you like that! I like it when new ideas are added to these old threads…they’re often full of information, and the new comment draws attention to it. Thanks for the tip…I’ll add this to my list of things to look out for at yard sales (in case my Dremel bites the dust… Noooo!!) Oh, and I’m envious of your tabletop drill press…. ;D

By: Becky C.

Becky C. — Sat, 16 Oct 2010 06:57:16 +0000

Hi All: This thread is kind of old now, but I thought I would add my 2-cents’ worth! I was out in my garage using my tabletop drill press to drill bead holes (which does a super job!) when I happened to notice my orbital car wax buffer. I dug it out and tried it on buffing a finished flat piece and it worked great! Of course, you have to hold it in 1 hand and hold the piece being buffed in the other, but it is not too awkward as the orbital wax buffer I have is not too powerful. I think you could even put it in the bench vise if you have one–I haven’t tried it yet, but it should work. Gave a beautiful shine without much effort. These can be found relatively cheaply, too.

By: Jocelyn

Jocelyn — Fri, 26 Jun 2009 17:31:27 +0000

@ Genevieve

Love that tut link. Noticed that someone mentioned using double backed Velcro as a way to attach the sandpaper in the comments.

Also have seen folks rave about doing the same thing with those larger battery charged power scrubbers for the bathroom, too.

Nothing triggers an MS flare faster for me than hand sanding stuff in a bowl of water. One of the reasons I put the clay down for awhile. Cannot wait to try using these ideas, and setting up the Lortone tumbler again. F-r-e-e-d-o-m!

By: Cindy Lietz@Rubber Stamp Texture Beads

Cindy Lietz@Rubber Stamp Texture Beads — Tue, 02 Jun 2009 22:30:09 +0000

Yeah I’ve seen people do that before Genevieve. It’s a neat idea. The upside to using a tool like that is that it is small and easy to hold. The downside is that the sand paper pads are super tiny and you would be replacing them all the time. For me I’d find it to be a bit of a hassle.

I’ve got a little palm sander called a Black and Decker Mouse which is about the size of a computer mouse. I’ve been meaning to dig that out of the shop and give it a try. At least with that sander the sanding pad is bigger and you could sand a lot of beads before having to change it.

I’ll report on how it works when I get around to trying it.

By: Genevieve

Genevieve — Sat, 30 May 2009 20:20:50 +0000

Hi Cindy… I just saw an interesting tutorial that shows how to make a polymer clay sander from an old electric toothbrush: jewelrylessons.com/jewel/node/23412

By: Cindy Lietz@Polished Beads - Rock Tumbler

Cindy Lietz@Polished Beads - Rock Tumbler — Thu, 21 May 2009 18:30:27 +0000

Your beads sound beautiful Clarrisa! The sanding method you described is a good one.

I have a few posts on sanding that you may have some interest in plus some on using a rock polisher which speeds things up a bit. There is also a video on the tumbler method if that interests you. Click the link by my name for more info on that.

Thanks for sharing your tips!

By: Clarissa

Clarissa — Wed, 20 May 2009 15:32:18 +0000

I really don’t like sanding too much. Right now, I’ve been making these disc beads that are fairly thin and flat. I used flower canes and laid slices on conditioned transluscent clay, burnished them into the clay, then cut them using a round shape cutter & punched holes in them with coffee stirrers. I’ve found the easiest way to get a smooth, if somewhat matte, finish is to put my 400 grit sandpaper in a flat bottomed bowl filled with about an inch of water. I place the bead in the water and use a circular motion to sand the bead smooth on both sides. I stand the bead on it’s end to finish the edges. This technique keeps the sandpaper from getting gunky and clogged. I change the water when it gets murky.

Once I’m satisfied that the beads are smooth, I finish them with Sculpey glaze that I’ve thinned with a bit of water. When that’s dry, I use a 600 or 800 grit to smooth that out a bit. The beads end up looking like frosted glass with milliofori patterns pressed into them. There’s a dimensional effect to the flowers. Pretty cool! I hang the beads on ear wires with jump rings.

By: Cindy Lietz@Rubbing Alcohol - Polymer Clay Supplies

Cindy Lietz@Rubbing Alcohol - Polymer Clay Supplies — Sat, 16 May 2009 16:49:13 +0000

Oh I’m sorry I guess I got what you’re saying wrong. Spray bottle is also a cool idea. Never thought of that! Will have to give it a try.

I’m thinking rubbing alcohol would work as a solvent. It breaks down Future finish and shouldn’t harm the plastic nozzle.

By: Jocelyn

Jocelyn — Fri, 15 May 2009 01:57:39 +0000

The air spray gun is a great idea if the Future Wax doesn’t clog it! They use it to spray the finest veneers on wood, so why not clay?

I was referring to the spray bottle, I found I need one with an adjustable nozzle to get the flow I liked.

Micromark sells them: “Description Spray head fits Scenic Cement bottle. Nozzle adjusts from fine mist to steady stream. Includes 8 oz. bottle.”

In between soaked the nozzle in some solvent my Dad gave me that dissolved the residue and cleared the hole. Wish I could remember what. Didn’t degrade the plastic.

By: Cindy Lietz@Polymer Clay Cane Designs

Cindy Lietz@Polymer Clay Cane Designs — Fri, 15 May 2009 00:57:17 +0000

That’s OK Jocelyn. :-)
(Unless the quote is from way up in the comments, you don’t need to repeat it at all. It’s more of a relaxed conversational style around here. Just answer the question and most people will be able to follow along.)

Oh I see from your additional email, you are putting the Future in an airbrush and spraying it on. How clever! I haven’t tried airbrushing yet. I looks fun!