Many thanks for your prompt reply.

I use Fimo, Fimo soft in this case. I never used liquid clay except once. I don’t know why but I had the idea I had read somewhere that you could use liquid clay on the cracked bead to close the crack than you needed to sand. I must have done something really wrong because I totally roasted the top of the bead. I used Kato medium on Fimo.

Many thanks for your tips, will see the video

Take care
All the best
Helena

What kind of clay were you using? Also I’m not sure what you mean by the liquid clay making your bead look like charcoal.

Sometimes a bead will crack if there is water or air trapped in it before it was baked. Conditioning properly will help.

As well, old canes can be a bit of a problem for cracking. Try and ‘wake up’ the molecules in the cane by warming in your hands or rolling the sides with a brayer a little before using them right away.

Click the link by my name to go to an article called “What to do when polymer clay techniques go bad” for some ideas that may help.

First, let me congratulate you for your amazing site, very user friendly and terribly helpful, but mostly for the way you run it always having a kind and encouraging word to give to everybody. I’m very new to polymer clay and trying to find my way.

Unfortunately I still haven’t found a solution for an actual problem which is – I made the cutest beads but some just cracked after baking. I know that sometimes this happens when you clay is not sufficiently conditioned but I think this happened to me because the canes I used were untouched for to long (I find easier to cut them without distorting it). Is there a way to recover them? To fix the crack? I tried once putting liquid clay and baking it but they just looked like charcoal.

Many thanks
All the best for you and business
Helena

Also the tip on twisting the bead instead of the wire is fantastic and of course makes sense! I will have to try that too! (For those of you that haven’t read the post on piercing beads yet, click the link by my name. Do the things there that I suggest and add Sue’s idea for twisting the bead instead of the pin and see how that works for you.)

Thank you so much Sue for sharing your tips with us!

But I was “playing clay” tonight, and after seeing this post thought I’d give the bead roller another go. I still loathed the supplied measuring tool, so I experimented with pasta machine settings and cutters until I found a combination that exactly matched the bead roller’s measuring tool. It didn’t take long to find one, and the whole process is MUCH easier and faster. (For what it’s worth, I have a Fire Mountain Gems “Poly Roller”, and its #2 setting and the smallest round Klay Kutter (from FMG again; I think it’s 19mm) gave the perfect amount of clay. Also, two of those rounds at #3 let me produce nice and consistent “overfilled” shape effects.)

I haven’t tried modifying my tri bead roller to take piercing pins, but when piercing radially symmetrical beads I actually find it easiest to hold my piercing tool still and twist the bead onto it, i.e. I position the point where I want the hole to start, then rotate the bead while applying gentle pressure to push it onto the piercing tool. The holes go straight through rather than coming out in funny places because the rotation lets you see straight away if you start going out of alignment. It also avoids “flat spots” from holding the bead in a single place. I still hold the piercing tool in my dominant hand and the bead in my other hand, but my dominant hand isn’t THAT dominant so it wouldn’t hurt to try it both ways.

(By the way, thanks for the useful info and videos around your site!)