Faux Flaking Rust | Polymer Clay Tutorials Vol-056

Pt 1 Faux Flaking Rust - Polymer Clay Tutor6 Videos #327 to #332: Perfect for steampunk jewelry and rustic ephemera designs.

When the Oregon Shipwreck Palette was posted a few months back, a longtime members had asked that I do a Faux Rust tutorial.

Well, after some tweaking and refining of a few creative ideas, I have now come up with a unique technique that does a pretty good job of imitating the look of real rust… all peeling and flakey looking… but without the dirty sharp edges.

With all the rustic found objects being used in steampunk fashion these days, my faux flaking rust technique really fits the bill. And because these rusty slabs of clay can be used in so many different ways, you’ll be able to make all kinds of beads, pendants, bracelets, cuffs, home decor and polymer clay sculptures too!

I think you guys are going to enjoy the creative options of this project. Posted just below is a Sneak Peak and overview of this months Faux Flaking Rust Tutorial. The rest of this 6 part video series will be posted tomorrow (Friday, January 4, 2013) in the Vol-056 members area at the Polymer Clay Tutor Library.

Vol-056-1: Video #327: Introduction: In this 6 part video tutorial series, you will learn how to master my Faux Flaking Rust Technique, which can be used in many different projects, including the Steampunk Bracelet I show in this series. I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how much you will learn in this Faux Flaking Rust project series.

Pt 2 Faux Flaking Rust Project - Polymer Clay TutorVol-056-2: Video #328:
Creating Faux Rust Slab:

In this video you will learn how to make your own custom rust color blend, as well as creating the Faux Flaking Rust slab, using interesting inclusions and my own special layering technique.

Pt 3 Faux Flaking Rust Project - Polymer Clay TutorVol-056-3: Video #329:
Flaking and Baking:

This video teaches you how to get the perfect flaky and peeling pieces of rust and how to bake them to perfection. I will share with you tips and secrets to getting a durable and awesome looking Faux Rust components for your jewelry pieces.

Pt 4 Faux Flaking Rust Project - Polymer Clay TutorVol-056-4: Video #330:
Antiquing and Drilling:

In this video you will learn how to enhance your rust pieces by giving them a realistic looking antique finish. As well, I’ll show you how to seal them to ensure durability and comfortable wear. Plus, we’ll be drilling the hole using a special tool that gives a clean professional finish every time.

Pt 5 Faux Flaking Rust Project - Polymer Clay TutorVol-056-5: Video #331:
Adding the Gears:

Here’s where you add the gears and other found or purchased objects that will make your bracelet, one of a kind. This is the step where you can let your Steampunk creativity run wild.

Pt 6 Faux Flaking Rust Project - Polymer Clay TutorVol-056-6: Video #332:
Making Jumprings and Clasp:

Finally I will show you how to make your own professional quality jumprings and clasp so that you can have control over the material, size and number of findings you need, when you need them!

Other Supplies:

  • Rubbing Alcohol
  • Paper Towel
  • Toilet Paper or Paper Towel Cardboard Tube Roll
  • Small Paint Brush
  • Very Coarse Grit Sandpaper (36 grit or 50 grit)
  • Paprika
  • Coarse Ground Black Pepper
  • Sand
  • Acrylic Craft Paints in Black and rust colored shades such as Raw Sienna, Orange, Terra Cotta, etc.
  • Fine tip Sharpie Felt Pen

By the way, many of the “shopping” links I provide for the various tools and supplies used in my tutorials, are “affiliate” resources. That means companies like Amazon and the other suppliers I refer, pay me a small commission if you click on the links and end up making a purchase at their site. It’s not a lot, but every little bit helps in keeping the cost of my tutorials down. And, the prices for products that you may purchase through my links, are exactly the same as what you would normally pay, even if it is a “sale” price. So please feel free to click whenever you need to pick up a few things for your studio. Thanks so much for your support.

The full video series for the Faux Flaking Rust tutorial described above, is available in Vol-056 at the Polymer Clay Library.

If you would like to receive 3 free beginner videos right now, plus some free color recipes that get sent out each week in my Friday email newsletter, please click this link: Polymer Clay Tutorials

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Please Note: A general prerequisite for all of my monthly library tutorials is that you have a good understanding of the polymer clay basics, including: conditioning clay, using a pasta machine, clay blade and other simple tools, making Skinner Blends, baking clay, as well as sanding and finishing. If you need help in these areas, my Polymer Clay Beginners Course will get you up to speed quickly. There is also plenty of free information on this blog. Use the search box at the top of the page to find articles on specific topics.

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Customer Feedback About Membership Value:

Hi Cindy, I just joined on Friday and WOW I’m so thankful a friend recommended me to you!I have purchased every back tutorial my monthly allowance would allow :) I have had so much fun watching all of your awsome tutorials and couldn’t wait to try each and every one of them out. Kind of like a kid on Christmas with too many toys LOL. Today I finally got my wish! I was working on a project and sure enough a pretty head pin was just what I needed so I had my hubby get out his torch and we had a blast making some beautiful headpins! I’m not sure who had more fun, me or him! He had to “show” me several times how to properly do it. HA! I’m no dummy! He was enjoying making them. Thank you for a project that both me and my husband could both enjoy! He leaves the Polymer Clay and Jewelry “Pretties” as he calls them to me. Today gave him a chance to bring out his torch and be a part of my world. Not only did your tutorial teach me how to make beautiful headpins, it made a great project for me and my husband to do together. I love my husband and me time :) Thanks again for your great tutorials! I’m off to “pickle” some headpins. ~Susan-R

Cindy, I took a class a couple of years ago to make a beaded Kumihimo bracelet. I had a terrible time getting the beads to stay in the right spot, so I never did finish. I blame it on using embroidery floss, which was too fine and limp for the beads, and for not using a weight. I wanted to try it again without the beads. The next time I used some C-Lon thread that was leftover from another project and my results were just OK — it’s very hard to keep the tension without a weight — and I thought the result was a little stiff. Unfortunately, there’s nowhere to buy nice cord near me. I never thought of ribbon! After watching your tutorial I went out and bought several spools of the 50 cent ribbon at Michaels and they worked really well. I also ran with your idea for the weight. What a difference that made, not only in the ease of working the cord, but in the even look of the braided cord. So thanks again, Cindy. The things I learned in your tutorial brought me from failure to success! ~Linda-K

I am just loving this new monthly format! Cindy you really have taken these tutes to a whole new level. It is so wonderful to get so much for so little! ~DixieAnn-S

The full video series for the Faux Flaking Rust tutorial described above, is available in Vol-056 at the Polymer Clay Library.

If you would like to receive 3 free beginner videos right now, plus some free color recipes that get sent out each week in my Friday email newsletter, please click this link: Polymer Clay Tutorials

Cindy Lietz SignaturePolymer Clay Tutor

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Comments

  1. Faux flaking rust… awesome! :D

    Thank you very much for investigating this technique, Cindy!

    Luckily I have a relatively free weekend for claying coming up, otherwise I’d be *most* frustrated! LOL

    When I try this out I’ll probably go for an industrial-theme look with combinations and layers of various faux rusted metals (no steampunky bits on hand). I love the idea of combining it with rivets too.

    Can’t wait! :D

    • Sue

      Would you promise to put up a picture on the FB site to show me what you mean once you finish? I would just die to see it. I learn so much from you and it would be a joy to see how this rusted patina effect is interpreted by you.

      • Oh Jocelyn, it’s really sweet of you to say that… I’ll get a swelled head! LOL

        This is a really nice place for sharing polymer clay information, and because I prefer one of the “other” brands I just like to put my $0.02 in every now and then when it might be useful for others, or when it might expand the information base a bit.

        Anyway, I promise to put a pic or three somewhere — I’m not sure how many actual pieces I’ll make and how much time I’ll spend just playing with the technique, but I’ve got my toilet paper rolls all lined up and ready to go ;) — and post links here.

        (I don’t use Facebook because I’m the particularly pigheaded kind and I disagree in principle with them on privacy, data sharing, policy implementation processes, and a whole bunch of other things. Sorry.)

        Sue

        • Sue, no worries, a lot of folks are abandoning FB for those very reasons. Me, alone and homebound, I think it’s a boon. But I very carefully watch and monitor my info and my interactions.

          If Cindy could put a pic or two up here, that would be fabu.

  2. This sounds cool. I think I would use this technique on a clock face. I have been looking for an idea to make a clock with and this might be it! It is very cold here in Michigan so I guess I’ll have to stay put and clay all weekend!!! ( I hope! )

    • clay day here,too. It has been very cold for a week now. They say we will warm up to freezing on Monday. So claying is my plan for the day as well.

        • Thanks for the sympathy, Andrea! :)
          I have three christmas trees to take down yet. So, I hope it won’t take too long so I can play with my clay! ( I only put up 8 trees this year! )

  3. Best Internet polymer clay tutorials. If you can’t make something based on one of Cindy’s tutorials, then maybe polymer clay isn’t your thing.

  4. Cindy

    Just finished watching this set of tutes. My mind is racing with ideas. You are so inventive. Cannot wait to try it later tomorrow. I loved those shipwreck pics Doug took while you were on the road, and with my Dad, collecting metal for use in the future and all the gadgetry, my head is filled with color and design possibilities. Thank you so much!!!!!

  5. Wonderful tutorial. I just love it. I’m a retried operating engineer and worked around equipment that had rusted to the point of peeling. I would dread it but was always fascinated by the colors and process. Thank you for turning my dread into excitement. I have had a mid winter block until now. I can’t wait to get home and try this making my own rust. I could also see this in dark greens with paprika, pepper, and turmeric.
    I am really enjoying all of you tutorials. Great camera work also. Please Thank Doug also.
    Denise

    • Hey, Cindy!

      What a beautiful set of tutorials! I just was swamped with ideas for using this technique. I also appreciated seeing how you made the findings. You always keep us so excited! Also will look on Pintrest. Thank Doug, too!

      Love ya!

      Andrea

  6. Cindy – What’s the name of that product you used on your bead rack to stabilize pins? I can’t find the video wherein you recommended it. Please advise. Thanks.

  7. Oh wow, I cheated and got up at 3:30 am to watch the video series and love it! You can’t make it look bad and the dark green from Denise’s suggestion sounds wonderful. Maybe I could add some crusteachans to that color and give it more of a deep sea effect, who knows, it will be fun just to explore. I love the clock face with the very rustic look though and will definitely be making that. By the way Sue F. thanks for that in depth explanation you put out there. I just love the exchange of information on this blog. It was really a fascinating read especially the way you disassembled the information and then kind of built it back together again. Good Job! 2013 is proving to be a wild year as I have decided to sell the house and move into a condo. The pain and wear and tear on my body from the accident and not being able to take care of the outside work and a lot of inside stuff too made me realize it’s time to make the big move. I don’t know how much claying I will get done but everyone just keep those ideas coming and I will try and stay current with the Blog. Happy New Year all.

    • Dixie, know that you will dread the packing and yard sale process, but I am so glad that you are making the move into a more manageable size. Wish you the best of luck, and please, when you get done setting up the new craft area, post some pics.
      All best always, my friend.

      • aw-w-w Jocelyn you are such a sweetheart, yes I’m dreading it already but it has to be done. One nice thing is I can use some of Cindys ideas to help set up the new craft area. That is going to help keep me going. (((hugs)))

    • Good luck with your Big Move Dixie Ann! I hope that your new condo serves your needs well, so that you can focus on the fun stuff in your life like polymer clay! I will be thinking of you. Although it will be a lot of work and a bit of a disruption to your life, it should be fun to plan and organize a new space for your creative endeavors. Do keep us in the loop and let us know how it is going!

  8. Just watched all the tutes and I am so excited to try this. Cat has an awesome idea about using this technique for a clock. I can’t wait to see what she comes up with. My grandson wants a bracelet. It should make some really cool jewelry for guys so that will be my first attempt. Mens jewelry. Hopefully I will be able to work on some next week. Then I think I am going to take a piece of my barn siding I have been wanting to make a name plaque for our new TV room. I think the letters for our last name would look totally cool in this technique. Cindy the inspiration you have sent my way is just a flying through my head. I am so looking forward to working on these ideas. You and your artistic talent and Doug’s filming. It just doesn’t get any better than this. Thank you once again for another A+ #1 tutorial. Pure Genius!!!!!!!!!

  9. Cindy this has been kind of a rough winter so far for me. Won’t get into great detail but Dr. has changed a lot of meds and it has made it much worse for me so needless to say I haven’t been able to follow like I want leaving comments and reading them. Due to the fact I haven’t been able to watch the tutorials on a regular basis I once again have missed some of the color recipes. So once again I am asking if you have been able to do or think about doing something so we can get to the B series recipes. I know you were talking about it at one time and I might of even missed some comments where you are still working on it. I would love to be able to have the complete list to go with all my videos. Please let me know if this is something you are still looking into. Thank you and your family for all you have done for us. Looking so forward to another year with the Lietz family.
    Many Uuuuuugggggs

    • Peggy, sorry to hear your not doing well. Winters are always so tough on a lot of us.
      I know med changes can create lots of problems too. Here’s hoping things get better for you, sending you lots of (((hugs)))

      • Dixie thank you for the kind words. This winter is hitting so many more than usual. The flu epidemic is out of control. I pray all will be much better soon. I know in our community and others they are going into homes of those who can not get out for the flu shot so they can have one. God willing this will all come to an end before too much longer.
        Sending many Uuuuugggs to you and all.

    • My apologies Peggy for not yet having the B-recipe archives set up. Yes it will happen. There have been several reasons for the hold back, primarily to do with Cindy and I having to prioritize which projects get done first.

      For example, the first Roadtrip was big… and it was a success… so we are now figuring out how to build up enough support to pull off the second Roadtrip #2 event… this time with a much broader “cross country” reach.

      Then there is the new YouTube Channel and all the free videos we are producing… in hopes of getting more recognition in the broader polymer clay clay community. For us to be able to keep our membership prices so low (which we really do want to continue to do), our message needs to be shared (much) more than what is currently happening. Hint, hint… that is were all of you guys can help out in a big way…. as you are out and about, liking and sharing and pinning and commenting in all of your favorite polymer clay hangouts (i.e. on Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter, Forums). When you let people know about our free YouTube videos, this will go a long ways towards helping introducing more clayers to our friendly PcT community.

      Then there is another project that has been progressing slowly but surely in the background… a separate store which will allow customers to download individual video tutorials (and color palettes), instead of having to buy full back issue volumes which include a range of different topics (as things are set up now). The plan is to include all of the individual color recipes in this new store.

      Now to get back to the original question of how to access color recipes that may be missing from your current collection, some discussion about this topic was started in this thread.

      • Doug, love the new ideas, and wish you and Cindy the very best at bringing them to fruition. We so appreciate all your hard work.

      • Doug no need for an apology, I know how busy you and Cindy are. Even the kids are doing their part. Truly a family affair. I will keep my eye open for this offer and definitely jump on it. Pictures with the recipes would be awesome. I feel the pictures are so inspirational to the colors. I appreciate you taking the time to inform me of your plans. Patiently waiting.

    • Peggy, so sorry to hear you are not feeling well. You will certainly be in my prayers to feel better soon. I so miss you when you are not here.

      • Jocelyn thank you so much for the prayers. As so many of us know the power of prayer out weighs all else.
        Many Uuuuuggggs for all your kindness

  10. I really love the idea of using this technique with different colors. Maybe copper and verdigris. I saw the jump ring tool at Michael’s and wondered how useful it would be. I am definitely going to pick one up.

  11. Encore un merci pour toutes ces vidéos…que je regarde avec beaucoup de plaisir, même si des fois je ne comprends pas tout!
    Mais le fait que vous parlez lentement ça aide énormément.
    À bientôt
    rosa (Suisse)

    ———————————————————————————————————————-
    Google Translation:

    Another thank you for these videos … I look with great pleasure, even if sometimes I do not understand everything!
    But the fact that you speak slowly it helps tremendously.
    See you soon
    rosa (Switzerland)

  12. Cindy, Fantastic project this month (like all your others haven’t been fantastic)! How you keep knocking it out of the park all the time is beyond me! I hope I have some spare time to play with this one.

    Question, can the Tim Holtz gears and things go into the oven? I would like to cover parts of the gears to give a look more akin to the antikythera mechanism. Like the internal workings are being exposed by the rusting process.

    • Ken, had a few moments so perused a site that features his whole line. That man is such a creative genius, and the site is filled to the brim with stuff that can be used with polymer clay.

      The packages of findings, like the clock hands, gears, sprocket gears and charms seem to be made of metal, so surely no harm in baking or rebaking them with clay. If plastic, would say you’d need to test.

      This link shows the sprocket gears up close, and it clearly states the clock hands are metal, so I assume when he speaks of the finishes of the sprockets he is also referring to a metal product.

      You might want to check them out in a store just to make sure, and if I am mistaken, please someone (Cindy?) correct me.

    • Hi Ken, that makes me happy to know you enjoyed this tutorial! The girls are right, the Tim Holtz stuff is all metal and you will have no problem baking them with your clay. The quality of all his products is high. I wholeheartedly recommend everything he puts his name on!

  13. Thanks Ladies, I didn’t want to take the chance and have something ruined after putting in lots of effort. :)

  14. Cindy
    Your simply the best :) Steampunk being one of my most favorites to create. I always knew there was more out there than just watch parts(although taking apart old watches is quite fun and relaxing:), keys, hearts, etc, etc. I was missing something…. RUST !! you have found my missing object to complete the look. Is there “anything” you cannot think of to do ? LOL.
    Keep on cranking out the great ideas and passing them on.
    Thanks again for all of the hard work that you and Doug put into every tutorial.
    Susan R.

  15. Dear Cindy, love this project, I made a pendant came out grate, but on the step of putting the black acrylic paint I added at the end a drop an I mean very little of the Metalic copper , mixed wit the black , loved the result…….
    Keep up the good work , we learn a lot.

  16. Jocelyn asked me to put up a picture of what I meant by an industrial-theme look, and how I interpreted this technique, so here goes…

    First up is a necklace with an asymmetric colour scheme to showcase the faux flaking rust effect (only; I personally don’t like the steampunk look so I skipped that part!). On one side I have the faux flaking rust with basically the same colours that Cindy used. I also thought I’d try the same effect with cast iron clay colours, and that’s on the other side. I loved how the cast iron version looked before baking; after baking it looks a bit more like slate, but I still like it.

    The clay pieces are on a temporary neckwire which I’ll probably change later. I didn’t want the stringing supports to be visible in this necklace so they’re on the back of the clay pieces; there are two supports per piece to ensure they sit at the angles I want.

    I was originally thinking of putting hardware store nuts or washers between the clay pieces, but I liked how they looked butted up and slightly overlapping so I left the clay on its own.

    Front view, on my workbench

    Rust side angle view, on my workbench

    Cast iron side angle view, on my workbench

    Close-up showing both colourways

    Wearing it, to show how it sits (although I’m holding the camera at eye level which doesn’t help!)

    I made a second piece which is more what I meant by an industrial theme, although it didn’t work properly because *both* my pasta machines packed up and it was the middle of the night when I couldn’t go out to get replacements. The effect isn’t really recognisable because the clay was all rolled by hand, but you can probably get an idea of what I was intending to do. Maybe.

    Linked bracelet tiles, on my workbench

    Whole bracelet, on my workbench

    Close-up (I only noticed when loading the photo that I didn’t rotate the jump rings to hide their joins, but I was too lazy to retake the photo!)

    Wearing it

    I’ll play with this technique some more when I’ve dealt with the dead pasta machines. (I wish the D.R.E.A.M. machine was immediately available and not quite so expensive!)

    • Sue, I am swooning at your results. Funny, but, when I clicked on the links, this was exactly what I craved and expected to see. Love the use of darker and lighter combinations of color, to me it makes the use of the technique sing. Thank you so much! Envy you that fine collection of Kato in the other thread too. The Dream Machine is a dream, but, I found that when I finally invested the money in a good Atlas and motor, it more than serves. Google me and machine for specifics. I adore it, and wish I had done it so much sooner.

      • Thanks, Jocelyn! I had a great time making them and have heaps of other ideas to try. I also have some extra “rust” and “cast iron” pieces which I have yet to assemble so there’ll probably be a bracelet and earrings to go with the necklace soon too.

        Kudos to Cindy for a really neat technique! :D

        The place I bought all that Kato from thought I was mad, but I’m happy. ;)

        I think you’re right about going with a good Atlas pasta machine this time, and I will Google as suggested. I did consider an Atlas last time, but I’d seen comments about the new Atlases not being as strong as the old Atlases, and also something about one manufacturing variant being better than the others: I figured I’d probably just break an Atlas anyway*, so I might as well stick with cheaper machines that are easier to get and can be treated almost as disposable. I had two, normally used for light and dark colours, but I figured if one broke I’d still have a spare to keep me going until I got a replacement. My cunning plan however was foiled by both of them breaking the same night. Rats.

        * I put my pasta machines through hell with my love of extra-firm clay and chronic lack of patience: have to use two or preferably three large C-clamps to stop them moving around on my workbench when I crank them (of course, then the whole ~80kg workbench moves around instead! LOL) and I can see the two-clamp machine buckle and bend when I’m using the firmest clay too. I enjoy the arm exercise (I’m weird) but it’s pretty stressful for the pasta machines, and I really don’t think a standard motor could cope.

        (I remember seeing a short video once of a powered industrial sheeting machine that was about the size of an upright piano, and the guy driving it was tipping clay in bucketload-size quantities into it. Every time I break a pasta machine I think of how nice it would be to have one of those! :D)

    • I am supposed to be making dinner, but I just had to stop in here and compliment you Sue on what an incredible job you did on these faux rust pieces!! I really am so impressed. Love the neat things you did with the colors. Really fabulous! Thank you so much for sharing your work with us!

      I too would love a Dream Machine… still having a hard time justifying the price. And you’re right that the fact that they don’t have them in stock and you in most cases have to wait until the next time they make a batch, makes it hard to make the quick decision of buying one if your machine breaks down.

      • Thank YOU, Cindy, for developing the technique and sharing it with us! It was really fun. :)

        It’s also really versatile, and I can think of loads of things to try, e.g. using the rusty look in nautical, marine and even country themes, or veering off in the slate-like direction and making faux shale slabs “split apart” to reveal faux fossils (although mine would probably look like aliens :D).

        There’s a lot more I want to try with an industrial theme too… maybe even some decorator items, which I’ve never done in polymer clay before. I think I’ll keep my paprika in the studio rather than the kitchen from now on! (It’s smokey paprika which has a lovely smell, and it made me rather hungry when I was applying it! LOL)

        I actually would have ordered a Dream Machine if it had been immediately or imminently available — I can’t truly justify the price either, but I’ve never regretted the few other times when I’ve been so annoyed at ordinary items failing that I’ve gone totally over the top with an impulse replacement — and I probably still would have ordered one if there was a definite date of availability. The price plus the open endedness is just too much though. I’d build one myself if I knew where to get components of sufficient quality (after I build a device for perfect cane slicing, which is my next mad scientist project :D). Oh well, one of these days…

        • Sue, here’s the link, posted here on another thread, to the atlas pasta machine I purchased.

          I too am heavy handed with the stuff I try to put through, lol. And trying to be better about it, following Cindy’s advise always to roll it down with a rod or brayer first. I do not want to overload that engine, because this one has got to last me for a long time.

          I love it. The motor is not loud, doesn’t bother the neighbors, and the finish and workmanship of the metal casing etc. is superb. Gave me a whole new boost to try more of Cindy’s tutes, which has been thrilling to say the least.

          I use my own pincher clamps to hold it down, 2 of them in the front on either side, 3 inch models, and boy do I not miss chasing that darn crank handle down one single bit. No problems with the scrapers or collecting clay, just run a paper towel soaked with alcohol through it to clean rarely. It seems so well made that the clay just flows through and doesn’t get stuck.

          Dad was right again, you do need the right tools to do the job.

          • Many thanks for the link, Jocelyn! I started Googling, but since Google gives different results depending on where you are, hadn’t found the right info so that’s a big help.

            It does sound good, particularly that it’s made in Italy rather than China like the cheapies.

            Still not sure a motor could handle my clay — I did see the motorless version offered too — although occasionally when you need two hands to guide the clay properly for a particular technique it would be a lot easier than trying to turn a hand crank with your leg at the same time, like I’ve done the few times that’s been unavoidable! (Thank goodness nobody was around with a video camera!)

            And it _is_ a gadget I don’t have, which is always tempting for a geek… ;)

            Do you mind if I ask you a couple of questions?

            Is your motor dual-voltage? Different plugs are no problem, but we use 240V 50Hz in Australia rather than the 110V or 120V 60Hz used in the USA and Canada. Or is it DC instead? If so, changing the AC/DC Adapter would be the way to make it work here as long as the DC output and the socket on the motor itself were standard. (The Description and Specs on the linked page don’t go to that level of detail, unfortunately!)

      • I am one of original D.R.E.A.M. Machine owners. It took about 9 months to receive delivery, but my card was not charged until shortly before actual shipping. It really is the ‘Lexus” of clay machines. Super easy to clean blades and rollers. Very solid, heavy construction. I also purchased the motor (a ‘hedge’ on my rapidly advancing old-age…). Maybe not for the casual clayer – but absolutely worth it for PCT devoted fans. (Start a quarter jar!)

      • Thanks, Ken! :D

        I’d intended to mix some fine black glitter into the “cast iron” clay to visually mimic the almost crystalline surface cast iron usually has… but it wasn’t until I was cleaning up while the pieces were baking that I spotted the bottle of glitter I’d put out in preparation. Oops. Maybe that’s why it looks more slatelike to me. But there’s always the next time!

    • Sue – your work is Stunning!!! Was so happy to see some of your clay items Just Awesome!!!
      You know what this means now don’t you? Yep — We Will Want MORE ;)

      • Thanks, Tantesherry! :D

        Polymer clay is such an amazing medium… I really wish it was better supported by craft shops and similar suppliers here (Australia).

        I also wish I had more time to play with it! But when I use techniques from Cindy’s tutorials in the future — and some of them are amongst my favourites — perhaps I will post links to a photo or two if people are interested. (I have an idea that combines this month’s technique with an older one that I hadn’t tried when it was published because I didn’t have all the right materials. I found the missing item by accident recently so I might try the combination next. Don’t expect pics if it doesn’t work out though! ;)

        • Dixie is so right, MORE pics Sue, lol. Even if you share the stuff that didn’t work out as you planned, it’s a learning experience, and we all benefit. Especially since you use Kato. The old stuff, like mine. Hee hee.

          • It didn’t *quite* work out, but it wasn’t a total failure:

            Faux Flaking Rust Boulder Opal

            The way *that* evolved from faux flaking rust is that I thought my cast iron faux flaking rust variant looked a bit like slate after baking, so I decided to combine that layered rock look with a faux opal technique to attempt faux boulder opal.

            I hadn’t tried Cindy’s Faux Opal technique (volume 22) before because I had no idea what this “Buffalo Snow” stuff was and couldn’t find anything like it at the two craft shops in my area when that particular tutorial came out. However I did spot a packet of “Snow” when I was Christmas shopping last month, which I bought with that technique in mind.

            Since I’d never tried any faux opal techniques before I made samples to start with, using Cindy’s technique as well as Donna Kato’s, but they didn’t give me quite the look I wanted so I had a go at my own.

            I arranged torn pieces of the raw faux opal with torn pieces of the dark clay I’d made using Cindy’s faux flaking rust technique, with more of the latter for the backing.

            It was difficult to photograph, and it looks more iridescent and opalescent in real life. However the opal part and the construction aspect are still not quite right. Next time, maybe!

          • Thanks, Cindy! :)

            I was a bit concerned that I might be “taking over” some of the threads and drowning out everyone else — still am, actually! — but there have been more topics recently than usual where I can put my $0.02 in.

          • LOL

            Thanks, Andrea! I won’t have a chance to clay again until the weekend at the earliest, unfortunately… not sure whether I’ll experiment with more ideas using this technique, or pick some other techniques that I haven’t tried before. (And sometimes I start out intending to do one thing, but end it ends up morphing into something entirely different!)

            I’d actually love to see how other people are interpreting this technique too… there have been some fantastic-sounding descriptions!

    • Wow! You blew this technique out of the water!! Loved the pics – they look great! Glad you had fun with this tute. I was so ready to play this week end and wasn’t able to find the time. I know, poor me!! :(

    • Sue—Have been so awfully busy I just saw what you did with Cindy’s wonderful tutorial. Most excellent! I am totally in spin mode coming up with ideas and will have to chose at least one—or five or six! Thanks to all of you again. That verdigris is tugging at my skirt! LOL and love ya all. Andrea

    • I loved the pieces you did. I had problems with keepings the layers showing. They seem to just blend together – clay was soft when I was trying to rip them into smaller pieces. not sure what I ddi wrong, but you have it. i like the looks, Cindy

      • Thanks, Cindy P! :)

        I made a couple of suggestions in reply to your other comment further down this thread. I hope they will help… it’s a neat technique!

  17. Loved the tutorial and had a duh slap myself on the forehead moment when you made the jump rings!!!! I never thought to turn my flush cutters around to get the smooth end on the other side of the ring! I could never figure out why my jump rings wouldn’t come out right, lol. Thanks for the wonderful project.

    • Michelle –
      Me too! I was like ‘well duh’. Could not believe w/ All the reading I do- that one Important tool move Never sank in to this old brain;/

  18. Hi all
    Last friday I spent the day w/ a wonderful friend Mary, who happens to have MS and now due to a fall lives at a care facility– I think I’ve mentioned her to you guys before…anyway she used to come to my house and we would play with clay for hours, such Wonderful memories…(All of this happened before I joined Cindy’s site)
    All right – to the point – or rather to my confession, I was telling Mary about Cindy’s latest tutorial, faux rust and could not do it justice with just words so I signed in and we watched the videos together… Mary’s 1st words after the clay technique “Good Grief she (Cindy) is SCARY SMART”. Loved that and have smiled about it every time it’s come to mind since! We had such fun that day, like old time talking about claying.
    So if I broke the rules just tell me and I’ll be good from now on – it was one of those times when asking for forgiveness came before asking for permission ;/

    SCARY SMART LOL (but true)

    • I understand the do first, ask for forgiveness second thing… been there, done that. You’re forgiven. :-) I’m really happy you were able to re-live those fond polymer clay memories, and even create some new ones with your friend. Sounds like you had a Scary Smart good time LOL. Thanks for sharing your story, it made my day!

  19. Ahaha, sooooo Cindy I love this technique. Just grabbed some silver I had around in the binder, slung it through it threw with some transparent and black patches, used black pepper, poppy seeds and some black mica. Then the toothbrush and fingernail brush (lol, all I could find), and some black antiquing, a dab of canuba wax and a quick buff. Wow!!!! Very versatile, cannot wait to try it with deep reds/transparent/brown and see how that turns out. Doesn’t need to scream rust to be gorgeous.

  20. Sue F, hang on for a day or two. Contacted the distributor of the machine, Gary Valenti Incorporated, 718-386-0896, and have someone checking for distributors in Australia which would have the proper electric support, as using any conversions yourself invalidates the warranty.

    This is Italian made and is sold all over the world, so pretty sure we’ll get a good response as most countries differ in their electrical offerings.

    Fingers crossed, and I’ll post back as soon as I hear.

      • Also, forgot to mention, the motor is detachable and they give you a crank handle along with the standard C clamp. So if you need to switch back and forth, no problem. Myself, for the simple stuff I do, I plan on never using another one of those handles, LOL! Just need to remember to tie back the hair.

        • For those patiently awaiting information on the Atlas Pasta Machine, I followed up today and was told that they will be contacting the Italian maker and attempting to get a distribution list so that anyone interested in the machine could purchase one from their own country’s distributor, thus receive the correct electric set up for their particular situation. As soon as I hear back, I will post the information.

          • I just got a promotional email from Peters of Kensington, one of the places I buy homewares from occasionally, and today’s “Daily Deal” is on Marcato Atlas 150 Pasta Machines! Price is AUD $38, RRP is apparently $190.

            They have a black model and a blue model on sale at $38 (RRP $190). They also have the normal chrome finished model at $76 (which is probably their normal price; RRP is apparently $149), and a motorised combo at $179 (which is probably also their normal price; RRP is apparently $360).

            I don’t know if it’s exactly the same model (except for colour) as Jocelyn posted above, but it *is* made in Italy (rather than China like the cheapies).

            $38 was an irresistible price, particularly since they are in Sydney so shipping to my location is only $7, so I bought… more than one. In black, which will look cool in my studio because the workbenches have steel frames and tops, with black cabinetry underneath.

            So if anyone in Australia needs/wants an Atlas 150 pasta machine, Peters of Kensington have the black and blue models at $38 plus shipping until 11.59pm on Thursday, 17 January 2013, or until they run out of stock. (Their prices are normally pretty good anyway, so if you see this after the deal has lapsed it would probably still be worthwhile checking them out.)

            Black model

            Blue model

            Chrome finished model

            Chrome finished model with motor

  21. Sue F. your faux rust and opal technique is really quite stunning.
    I like it. As far as your buffalo flakes, you can order them online from the Dream Machine folks. Just ask for Grummers Iridescent
    flakes, they have them in 5 different colors besides white.

    • Agree with Dixie, Sue F, that opal in situ is gorgeous. Maybe Pardo might give it more of a glassy finish to see the flakes below? Would hate to try to gloss just the opal with an eyedropper and Future, lol, and it’s hard to buff unless you had dentist sized tools. To me, the perfection is in the setting.

      This is something that is fabulous. Would love to see tutes and others try this, semiprecious gems encased in actual outcroppings as in nature.

      Garnets? Emeralds? Druszies? My heart is skipping….on to google some images.

      • I actually started out intending to use Pardo, but one problem with it being wax based is that it gets very soft and very sticky quite quickly in warm weather (the stickiness is more of a problem than the softness, actually).

        It’s summer here, and even though it wasn’t a super-hot day, and even though I was using the Professional Art Clay Pardo which is the firmer one, it became completely unworkable before I’d got going properly.

        I’ll have another go with Pardo when the weather is cool, and also when I’ve figured out my faux opal technique properly. You get best (clearest) results from Pardo Translucent if it has minimal handling, which isn’t exactly how I tackle things while I’m still working them out!

        And yes, those faux opal bits would be a pain to buff! Perhaps I could stick a cotton bud in my Dremel and give it a go.

        I made a second piece using the same raw faux opal but squished out thinner, with a different construction approach, and I’m going to glaze the faux opal on that one (it’ll have to be done by paintbrush).

        I’m also part way through testing yet another idea for making the faux opal part.

        • Sue you might want to try chilling the tiles you use as the base in the fridge for awhile and have some on standby. Might help keep the Pardo cool enough for you to get through the project?

          • That’s a good idea in general terms — I used to do a similar thing with refrigerated cutting boards for an old laptop computer that got too hot to put on one’s lap except in the dead of winter! — but in this case I couldn’t even roll the Pardo without it sticking to everything. It stuck to the pasta machine rollers; it stuck to my acrylic rod when I tried rolling it by hand. I put it inside folded non-stick paper, and it stuck to THAT whether I put it through the pasta machine or rolled it by hand. Argh! When I can’t even peel it off non-stick paper except in little bits it’s time to change to something else! ;)

            (I know I could have refrigerated it in the non-stick paper after rolling it, and then peeled it off, but that was way too much bother for a simple experiment.)

    • Thanks, Dixie Ann! :D

      I actually have 3 colours of the Arnold Grummer’s Iridescent Flakes — I used the blue and the green in my faux opal — but I had thought the “Buffalo Snow” looked slightly different in Cindy’s video. The “Snow” that I bought in December has a much bigger range of flake sizes anyway, getting much larger than the Grummer’s, which I thought would be nice in faux opal. The trouble when I used it with Cindy’s Faux Opal technique, however, is that the flakes went a bit crinkly in contact with the liquid polymer clay, and crinkly internal diffraction just didn’t look right!

      (Polymer Clay Express has a fantastic range of goodies, don’t they?!)

      • Sue F.
        Yes, I love that place, I won the Dream Machine 2 yrs ago for Mothers Day. The flakes were a problem for me because of size so I had a little electric coffee bean grinder and use it to grind up the flakes. It worked like a charm. Now I use it on both kinds. Maybe that would solve your problem.

        • Maybe! :)

          (My electric coffee grinder has already migrated from my kitchen to my studio for other techniques, such as Cindy’s Volume 34 Rose Petal Bead Technique!)

      • Grinding up the flakes is a great idea, Dixie. Ended up using a cuticle scissors on mine to reduce them when I was playing with Cindy’s fabulous faux opal tute.

        • I’d sort-of wanted the large flakes, because the opals I like best have large reflections in their internal structure; I’m not so keen on opals with the more bitty look. The problem I had with the “Snow” I bought was crinkling, regardless of flake size, and I’m guessing it’s not quite the same product as Cindy used. However, it’s still OK with other techniques that don’t put the flakes in contact with anything “wet”, and the Arnold Grummer flakes that Dixie Ann mentioned seem to work well with “wet” techniques.

  22. Wow! Again! I have been playing with the faux opals and like how you blended the two techniques. I might have to steal this idea. I might try using the faux turquoise with this technique. Sooooo many ideas and soooo little time. I vote for a 48 hour day!!

    • Go for it. ;D

      And I like your idea of doing it with faux turqoise as well… Turquoise is one of my favourite stones, particularly when there’s lots of irregular matrix! I’d love to see what you come up with.

      And yes, a 48 hour day would help with all sorts of things!

  23. Sue, yikes, it sure sounds hot in Australia during the summer. You might want to try getting a second hand older air conditioner or one of the new portable ones. You could use clear tarp to define a small area over your work table or maybe bring in a summer umbrella table unit and drape the tarp over the umbrella to the floor. Then just turn that motor on for a few minutes to bring the temps down to reasonable levels…..

  24. (Oops. This is supposed to be a reply to Jocelyn’s post above. Wasn’t paying attention to where I stuck my reply!)

    There have been some really hot days — last Tuesday it was still 41C/106F at 7pm when I rocked up for training for my sport, and still 30C/86F at 4.30am the next morning — but the day I tried to use the Pardo wasn’t one of them. It wasn’t even hot enough for me to bother with any air conditioning at all [I actually have full ducted air conditioning in the house, AND one of those new portable refrigerative air conditioners as well which normally sits in my computer room because of the extra heat from all the equipment there ;) ]. It just seems to be a characteristic of Pardo.

    Good thinking, though! If I particularly need to use Pardo I might do something along the lines you suggest… but most of the time I’ll be lazy and use a different brand! LOL

  25. I love this tutorial. I used it to make some faux leather jewelry with the brads like shown in this one. I forgot the peppers so it wasn’t quite rust. Turned out nice tho! My questions: I’ve started using the rock tumbler for buffing. Would these pieces (flat) survive in the tumbler? Or would you recommend hand only? Second question: I’m concerned about the brad getting caught on clothes like mine did! Can you put the brad in the clay and put another piece of clay over the claw and bake it together? I would assume as long as you use metal in the design if should be ok in the oven?

    Thanks!
    Lisa-Marie (newbie)

    • Hi Lisa-Marie – Yes you could definitely put clay over the brad if you wish. That is a good idea and would be no problem to bake in the oven. Another alternative is to use wire rivets, which I actually prefer since they look so nice and professional.

      I did a tute on it awhile back, if you want to learn how to do that. Here’s the link if you’re interested: Wire Riveting Polymer Clay

      Oh and on the tumbling, it should be OK but I would test it first, to see how it does. (You will see I recommend testing things yourself, a lot. It really is the best way to know for sure.)

  26. Sue, I am so glad you found the right pasta machine! The picture details are not very close up so I can’t see the stamping on the machine front, but, am pretty sure you got the identical machine. Did you decide to purchase the motor? I sure hope you enjoy it.

    For others who might be waiting, hang with me, calling them again on Monday. Not the greatest customer service here, but, as soon as I get a list of distributors from Valenti, I will post it here.

    • Thanks, Jocelyn! I think the Atlas pasta machines I got are effectively the same as yours — the add-ons are compatible with them all, at least! — although there are a couple of cosmetic differences, e.g. the colour and the labelling on the front. Made in Italy, 5 year warranty (only for pasta dough though!), 9 thickness settings plus the undocumented setting 0, etc.

      The mechanism feels smoother than the various other pasta machines I’ve had in the past — three Fire Mountain Gems & Beads’ Polyrollers, three Makin’s Professional Ultimate Clay Machines, and a whole swag of cheapies whose brands I can’t remember — and the thickness adjustment is more precise, particularly at the thinner settings, so I’m hoping it’ll last well. (In case anyone is curious, out of those past pasta machines, the ones that lasted best were the Fire Mountain Gems & Beads Polyrollers; the Makin’s Professional Ultimate Clay Machines didn’t last any longer than the cheapest of the cheapies, which was rather disappointing.)

      Anyway, I didn’t get an Atlas motor in the end because I decided it didn’t feed anywhere near fast enough for me after watching videos of one in use (I don’t have any patience! ;D), but I can buy a motorised version later if I decide I want one. Peters of Kensington doesn’t sell the motor on its own, so your distributor list will be useful for that (I’m hoping the Atlas machines I bought will still be going strong if and when I do want a motor!).

  27. I tried the faux rust technique twice and both times the layse were not really showing. The last ry I put more paprika and it helped to be able to seperate the layers but still the clay got to soft. I just of that my pasta machine could be making the clay to thin? hmm Sny other ideas that could be happening? Thanks Cindy

    • Hi Cindy P,

      If you find that your clay is too soft for a technique, whether it be this one or something completely different, you can firm it up before use by leaching it, i.e. extracting some of the plasticisers.

      The way I do this is to roll the clay through my pasta machine at a thinnish setting, place several sheets of plain white photocopy paper under it, several more sheets of plain white photocopy paper over it, and then put a pile of books or something heavy on top of the lot (I’ve been known to sit on it while working at the computer ;D). The paper will absorb some of the plasticisers; the longer you leave it, the more will be absorbed. The rate at which leaching takes place will depend on things like the brand of clay, the temperature, and the absorbency of the paper. If you over-leach the clay it will be weaker when cured and might also crack when you’re handling it in the uncured state, but if you do accidentally over-leach you can soften the clay back up again by mixing some liquid polymer clay into it.

      Another method (which I think I’ve seen Cindy suggest) is to roll the clay through your pasta machine between sheets of paper, as many times as required to get the consistency you want (using new paper as required when the previous paper no longer absorbs the plasticisers effectively). If you type “leach” into the Search box near the top right of each page you’ll find all sorts of information about leaching polymer clay.

      Pasta machines roll at varying thicknesses — the Atlas pasta machines I bought recently don’t have as thick a setting as the pasta machines I used previously, for example — so perhaps you need to adjust for that. For example, in video 2 around the 6:02 minute mark, use an acrylic rod or brayer to roll the clay instead.

      I hope that helps,

      Sue

  28. Thank you sue

    i tried it again with carmel an orange clay the first batch had copper clay to. So I left out the cooper clay and then I tried a deifferent Paprika. Go figure it comes in different size grounds. The first Paprika was a lighter Hungarian Paprika and the second was an all natural more red Paprika and I noticed it was a larger ground than the first.

    Other than that , those were the two changes I made. Different clay combination and different Paprika.(Organic no less LOL)

    I will take some pictures and show the difference, the last try came out like Cindys, I could peel it back the clay did not absorb the Paprika and they look so much better. So I guess it turned out to be an experiment of sorts. Now How do I post pitures here?

    Cindy P

    • Interesting results Cindy P.! My guess is that either the clay you used in the second batch had less plasticizers in it to start with so it was firmer, or that the different paprika was more absorbent and helped to remove some of the oils and plasticizers in the clay. Either way it sounds like it worked better for you.

      As far as uploading pictures, you should do that at the
      PcT Members Facebook gallery page.

      Looking forward to seeing your new pieces!

  29. Hi Cindy (or anyone else who can answer)- is the Liquitex Matte Varnish long-lasting and durable? I’m a little concerned about a matte varnish on polymer clay because (from what I’ve read online) it seems like most types scratch off or don’t last as long as the compatible glossy ones. Thanks!

    I’ve been a subscriber for years now and can honestly say that your video tutorials are so exhaustive, that I rarely ever need to ask follow questions. Keep up the great work :)

    • Hi Vierra, I have not found any issues with the Liquitex Matte Varnish, scratching or wearing off. I tend to use thin coatings and since the polymer clay itself, is relatively matte, if it did scratch off, I am not sure if you would notice anyway. For this project it was used to protect the paprika inclusions in the clay without giving the rust a shiny uncharacteristic look. As far as a matte coating being less tough than a glossy finish, that is generally true when it comes to house paint so it may be the case here too as well, but I haven’t had any issues with it.

      Thank you for your comment! I am pleased that you have enjoyed the tutorials for so many years!

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