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	<title>Comments on: Best Polymer Clay &#8211; Premo Sculpey vs Fimo Clay vs Sculpey III</title>
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	<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/</link>
	<description>&#34;Make What You Love... Love What You Make!&#34;</description>
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		<title>By: Polymer Clay Tutor Cindy Lietz</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-56992</link>
		<dc:creator>Polymer Clay Tutor Cindy Lietz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Jan 2012 01:11:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-56992</guid>
		<description>Thank you Henry for such a detailed response! I love for people to share their own experiences whether it is of the same opinion of mine or not. If you are finding success with a product than by all means use it. I am all for supporting whatever works for you. 

On a side note, there have been significant improvements to the Sculpey III line of products over the last year or so, so my negative opinions described in this post, may no longer be valid. I am very happy with the Premo Line they make however, and will continue to use it as my main polymer clay for now. 

Thanks again for your comment!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thank you Henry for such a detailed response! I love for people to share their own experiences whether it is of the same opinion of mine or not. If you are finding success with a product than by all means use it. I am all for supporting whatever works for you. </p>
<p>On a side note, there have been significant improvements to the Sculpey III line of products over the last year or so, so my negative opinions described in this post, may no longer be valid. I am very happy with the Premo Line they make however, and will continue to use it as my main polymer clay for now. </p>
<p>Thanks again for your comment!</p>
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		<title>By: W. Henry-Elwell</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-56533</link>
		<dc:creator>W. Henry-Elwell</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Dec 2011 17:40:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-56533</guid>
		<description>[Disclaimer: I am neither a beader nor a professionally trained sculptor.]

In defense of Sculpey III:

I feel the need to defend Sculpey III as a perfectly legitimate clay to use for crafting purposes, especially if you&#039;re simply working with kids, exploring your own ideas, or want to make something pretty.  It seems like this post has people headed for the hills and running the opposite way when it comes Sculpey III and I think that&#039;s an entirely unnecessary aversion to this product.

I have been using Sculpey III, (also Premo! and Sculpey Bakeshop) regularly for the past four years to create little clay creatures.  It&#039;s more of a hobby than anything, so I&#039;ve only made a couple hundred items (critters) during my time with these clays. (A little over half of them have been for sale/sold (others are gifts, or personal)).  

I have never had a problem with Sculpey III (even white) turning purple, getting brown spots or anything, ever. .  I usually bake the Sculpey III as the package states, estimating for my thickness (which is on average 1/2&quot; to 3/4&quot; thick).  So, the guys are in the oven approx. 15-30 minutes. I&#039;ve used a few different toaster ovens and an electric stove, and none of them ever effect the quality.

The only &quot;problem&quot; I&#039;ve had with Sculpey III color is burning due to operator error.  It browns slightly if it&#039;s in there 40+ minutes, and will eventually blacken if you leave it in long enough, no matter how thick it is or the clay color.  My personal issue was surface fissures due to cooking rate - so, I learned to cook thicker pieces longer at a lower temp.  Other than that, I&#039;ve never had a hang up with any of the polymers I use.  The horns, ears, and tails on my critters have broken off if dropped from too high, or handled improperly (i.e. chewing, stomping, throwing against hard surfaces) - but only at extremely thin points, or poorly melded joints (again, mostly operator error, not clay issues).

Bakeshop is extremely soft, but it&#039;s designed for little hands and fingers.  I use it if I want to avoid having to pre-work the clay for something small and quick, or to add to Sculpey that is slightly too hard or &quot;dried up&quot; for me.  Premo! does require longer baking time, and if anything those colors sometimes go a little wonky on me (but not enough to be an issue).  I&#039;ve never experienced serious issues with any of these products.  I&#039;ve yet to use FIMO because the nearest place that sells it is a couple hours away - and I&#039;m already using clay that works for me.  I dislike Studio Sculpey because it doesn&#039;t hold heat very long (i.e. goes cold quickly and requires frequent re-working to warm it), so I choose not to use it.  Sculpey &quot;Light&quot; though is one of the most pointless, and worst, art products I&#039;ve ever used (across the board) - I can wholeheartedly advise against using Sculpey Light.

Again, I neither bead, do any clay caning, nor try to render doll flesh or the like - but I have worked with Sculpey III regularly and sold the products I made with it.

Everyone has their personal material preferences, my suggestion is to go out and develop your own.  You&#039;ll only ever know a product through your own experiences with it.  Play with whatever you come across and feel drawn to... In the case of polymer clays, I&#039;m pretty sure most anyone reading this has blown $3.00 on a worse idea.

----

@ Rain D. - Pearl Ex Pigment Powders are super fantastic with polymers.  You can mix a little in for a very subtle effect, or brush it on the clay before you bake it.  However, when brushing it on, it will act much like cornstarch does - the clay will not stick to itself.  So, make sure you won&#039;t need to attach anything else to a surface before you powder it.  After baking, though, soft clay can be attached and cooked on, or hard items can be glued.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[Disclaimer: I am neither a beader nor a professionally trained sculptor.]</p>
<p>In defense of Sculpey III:</p>
<p>I feel the need to defend Sculpey III as a perfectly legitimate clay to use for crafting purposes, especially if you&#8217;re simply working with kids, exploring your own ideas, or want to make something pretty.  It seems like this post has people headed for the hills and running the opposite way when it comes Sculpey III and I think that&#8217;s an entirely unnecessary aversion to this product.</p>
<p>I have been using Sculpey III, (also Premo! and Sculpey Bakeshop) regularly for the past four years to create little clay creatures.  It&#8217;s more of a hobby than anything, so I&#8217;ve only made a couple hundred items (critters) during my time with these clays. (A little over half of them have been for sale/sold (others are gifts, or personal)).  </p>
<p>I have never had a problem with Sculpey III (even white) turning purple, getting brown spots or anything, ever. .  I usually bake the Sculpey III as the package states, estimating for my thickness (which is on average 1/2&#8243; to 3/4&#8243; thick).  So, the guys are in the oven approx. 15-30 minutes. I&#8217;ve used a few different toaster ovens and an electric stove, and none of them ever effect the quality.</p>
<p>The only &#8220;problem&#8221; I&#8217;ve had with Sculpey III color is burning due to operator error.  It browns slightly if it&#8217;s in there 40+ minutes, and will eventually blacken if you leave it in long enough, no matter how thick it is or the clay color.  My personal issue was surface fissures due to cooking rate &#8211; so, I learned to cook thicker pieces longer at a lower temp.  Other than that, I&#8217;ve never had a hang up with any of the polymers I use.  The horns, ears, and tails on my critters have broken off if dropped from too high, or handled improperly (i.e. chewing, stomping, throwing against hard surfaces) &#8211; but only at extremely thin points, or poorly melded joints (again, mostly operator error, not clay issues).</p>
<p>Bakeshop is extremely soft, but it&#8217;s designed for little hands and fingers.  I use it if I want to avoid having to pre-work the clay for something small and quick, or to add to Sculpey that is slightly too hard or &#8220;dried up&#8221; for me.  Premo! does require longer baking time, and if anything those colors sometimes go a little wonky on me (but not enough to be an issue).  I&#8217;ve never experienced serious issues with any of these products.  I&#8217;ve yet to use FIMO because the nearest place that sells it is a couple hours away &#8211; and I&#8217;m already using clay that works for me.  I dislike Studio Sculpey because it doesn&#8217;t hold heat very long (i.e. goes cold quickly and requires frequent re-working to warm it), so I choose not to use it.  Sculpey &#8220;Light&#8221; though is one of the most pointless, and worst, art products I&#8217;ve ever used (across the board) &#8211; I can wholeheartedly advise against using Sculpey Light.</p>
<p>Again, I neither bead, do any clay caning, nor try to render doll flesh or the like &#8211; but I have worked with Sculpey III regularly and sold the products I made with it.</p>
<p>Everyone has their personal material preferences, my suggestion is to go out and develop your own.  You&#8217;ll only ever know a product through your own experiences with it.  Play with whatever you come across and feel drawn to&#8230; In the case of polymer clays, I&#8217;m pretty sure most anyone reading this has blown $3.00 on a worse idea.</p>
<p>&#8212;-</p>
<p>@ Rain D. &#8211; Pearl Ex Pigment Powders are super fantastic with polymers.  You can mix a little in for a very subtle effect, or brush it on the clay before you bake it.  However, when brushing it on, it will act much like cornstarch does &#8211; the clay will not stick to itself.  So, make sure you won&#8217;t need to attach anything else to a surface before you powder it.  After baking, though, soft clay can be attached and cooked on, or hard items can be glued.</p>
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		<title>By: Polymer Clay Tutor Cindy Lietz</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-55852</link>
		<dc:creator>Polymer Clay Tutor Cindy Lietz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 10 Dec 2011 19:44:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-55852</guid>
		<description>Hi Dea. Actually I have not tried Cernit yet myself, so I am not the best one to help you with this. Hopefully someone else will pop in with some advice for you.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Dea. Actually I have not tried Cernit yet myself, so I am not the best one to help you with this. Hopefully someone else will pop in with some advice for you.</p>
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		<title>By: Dea C</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-55531</link>
		<dc:creator>Dea C</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Dec 2011 12:10:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-55531</guid>
		<description>I was wandering what do you think of cernit? I was amazed at first by the texture, the finish and how good it was for the tiny details but last week I noticed something weird... We were organizing an anti-fur event and I had to make lots of animal pendants and animal print beads but I was running low on polymer clay so I made them with foil center. I made guide holes before baking and pierced them afterwards (still not feel comfortable drilling them). On the cernit beads the needle didn&#039;t come out in the right spot. It was way to easy to make a new hole in the baked clay and it was definitely not a thin layer... I didn&#039;t have that problem with the fimo classic and effect  beads and not even with the sculpey III beads. It was not an aesthetic problem cause I was going to put bead caps anyway but now I&#039;m worried that my cernit thingies might fall apart or something in time.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was wandering what do you think of cernit? I was amazed at first by the texture, the finish and how good it was for the tiny details but last week I noticed something weird&#8230; We were organizing an anti-fur event and I had to make lots of animal pendants and animal print beads but I was running low on polymer clay so I made them with foil center. I made guide holes before baking and pierced them afterwards (still not feel comfortable drilling them). On the cernit beads the needle didn&#8217;t come out in the right spot. It was way to easy to make a new hole in the baked clay and it was definitely not a thin layer&#8230; I didn&#8217;t have that problem with the fimo classic and effect  beads and not even with the sculpey III beads. It was not an aesthetic problem cause I was going to put bead caps anyway but now I&#8217;m worried that my cernit thingies might fall apart or something in time.</p>
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		<title>By: lu oliveira</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-52189</link>
		<dc:creator>lu oliveira</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Oct 2011 00:24:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-52189</guid>
		<description>I totally agree with you Lisa. Just two days ago I had my first experience working on some beads using Sculpey III, and I was extremelly disappointed seing my beautiful combination of colors turning into brown or purple spots. I have always used Premo and the results are always pleasant and consistent. I will never used Sculpey III again. So you know if you go online instead of local art stores you will find more variety of colors that your son might like.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I totally agree with you Lisa. Just two days ago I had my first experience working on some beads using Sculpey III, and I was extremelly disappointed seing my beautiful combination of colors turning into brown or purple spots. I have always used Premo and the results are always pleasant and consistent. I will never used Sculpey III again. So you know if you go online instead of local art stores you will find more variety of colors that your son might like.</p>
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		<title>By: Polymer Clay Tutor Cindy Lietz</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-51710</link>
		<dc:creator>Polymer Clay Tutor Cindy Lietz</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Sep 2011 23:39:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-51710</guid>
		<description>Hi Rain, that is something you will have to test. Although most glitters are fine with polymer clay, some will explode in the oven. Since there are a million types of glitter, it would be impossible to list all the ones that worked and those that didn&#039;t. Just take a bit of the glitter you have and mix it with some scrap clay and then bake it to see if it works or not. Have fun!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Rain, that is something you will have to test. Although most glitters are fine with polymer clay, some will explode in the oven. Since there are a million types of glitter, it would be impossible to list all the ones that worked and those that didn&#8217;t. Just take a bit of the glitter you have and mix it with some scrap clay and then bake it to see if it works or not. Have fun!</p>
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		<title>By: Rain D</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-51374</link>
		<dc:creator>Rain D</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:06:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-51374</guid>
		<description>Hi there, I was wondering the difference between regular glitter and the glitters used with polymer clays. I have a lot of &quot;regular&quot; glitter wonder if I can use that to mix in my polymer clay projects then bake? Thank you and I appreciate your time!
Rain</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi there, I was wondering the difference between regular glitter and the glitters used with polymer clays. I have a lot of &#8220;regular&#8221; glitter wonder if I can use that to mix in my polymer clay projects then bake? Thank you and I appreciate your time!<br />
Rain</p>
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		<title>By: Alma L</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-50101</link>
		<dc:creator>Alma L</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 Jul 2011 01:31:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-50101</guid>
		<description>I think the premo beige will work!!! Thanks for helping me.  I want to try that flesh super scupley too. Thank you so much.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I think the premo beige will work!!! Thanks for helping me.  I want to try that flesh super scupley too. Thank you so much.</p>
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		<title>By: Jocelyn</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-50100</link>
		<dc:creator>Jocelyn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 Jul 2011 01:02:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-50100</guid>
		<description>@&lt;a href=&quot;#comment-50094&quot;&gt;Alma L&lt;/a&gt;: Dunno, Alma...this is sourced from EBAY and it sure looks current:

	13 oz Bar	Dark Flesh	76700	$13.95	$8.37	IN STOCK	

	
	13 oz Bar	Flesh	        41046       $13.95  	$8.37	IN STOCK	


Sure hope so....</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>@<a  href="#comment-50094">Alma L</a>: Dunno, Alma&#8230;this is sourced from EBAY and it sure looks current:</p>
<p>	13 oz Bar	Dark Flesh	76700	$13.95	$8.37	IN STOCK	</p>
<p>	13 oz Bar	Flesh	        41046       $13.95  	$8.37	IN STOCK	</p>
<p>Sure hope so&#8230;.</p>
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		<title>By: Alma L</title>
		<link>http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/best-polymer-clay-premo-sculpey-vs-fimo-clay-vs-sculpey-iii/485/#comment-50094</link>
		<dc:creator>Alma L</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 16 Jul 2011 20:35:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.beadsandbeading.com/blog/?p=485#comment-50094</guid>
		<description>I had mine for 5 years. At the time I bought ever brand and tried them.  Just came across the flesh premo in my stash!!  I&#039;m going to try cernit (which comes in several shades of skin) after reading these letters. I saw them making the babies on utube so tried with fimo clay.  So lifeless and pulled out my flesh premo and how wonderful it was. They used premo too. I have transluent and maybe will mix my flesh color. Thanks again. Glad to know someone is out there!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I had mine for 5 years. At the time I bought ever brand and tried them.  Just came across the flesh premo in my stash!!  I&#8217;m going to try cernit (which comes in several shades of skin) after reading these letters. I saw them making the babies on utube so tried with fimo clay.  So lifeless and pulled out my flesh premo and how wonderful it was. They used premo too. I have transluent and maybe will mix my flesh color. Thanks again. Glad to know someone is out there!!</p>
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