I sometimes needed to bake smaller sections partially so that I had a bit of structure to add onto without them deforming. I also can’t always wait for a few pieces to bake and firing up and entire oven for a tiny piece is just a waste. This works great as long as there isn’t any metal or foil inside.

All I do is fill a microwave safe container with water and put the piece in there. Just don’t overfill or it might boil over. Then I just nuke it for a couple of minutes until it’s hard enought ot work with.

The water seems to eliminate the issues that microwaving polymers usually causes. I’ve never had any issues after a final bake.
I would never try a full bake using this or bake anything that might be considered a joint or supporting piece. But I’ve found a lot of use for it.

I can’t think where that might come in handing with beads but I find that the more techniques I have the better.
Just one warning. The microwave will super heat water so whatever you do, don’t take it out and pour cold water in. The result is not good. I usually bake it then leave it for a minute or 2.

I also agree with the pan idea. I’m also a huge klutz so I’m really prone to tilting the tile. Except in thew case of sculpture you end up with shattered pieces. Pretty heartbreaking if you’ve put in days of work.
I do the same with the pan and tile in the bottom. The pan I use is pretty old and never had a lid so I cover with a tile if the piece isn’t too big. That way I’ve created an oven in the oven with a more consistant temperature. It pretty much eliminates scorching.

I personally find that it’s just simpler to collect

Another point I’d like to bring up.
You won’t see it as easily on cardstock but it does the same thing. Paper will generally leach the plasticiser from polymer clay if you leave it on for too long in it’s raw state. It’s ok if you put it on and bake it soon after. I always place my pieces on baking paper and then on the tiles. Baking paper has a much higher flash point. So it’s better to either use baking paper or only use card close to baking. The paper basically starts looking almost like something oily was on it.

Lots of great information from Cindy and commenters. Somebody mentioned using the toaster oven only if she’s remaining in the room–excellent advice that I want to reinforce for anybody new to this.
All the materials we use are safe at the recommended curing temperatures, including the cardstock (because we all remember from the book title that paper burns at about Farenheit 451). BUT–and this is where the process goes pear-shaped–your toaster oven doesn’t maintain a nice, even temperature.
It’s a little like firing clay with a flamethrower–on at full blast, off. On at full blast again…off. That’s why, when I covered a plastic switchplate with polymer (a switchplate that was supposed to be fine at clay-curing temperatures) and baked it in my toaster oven, I was very, very lucky to walk back into the room just as the flames started coming out the front of the oven. The only damage was the scorched enamel finish on the toaster oven. And the flaming project, of course.
Now I’m a fan of the oval roasting pan method. It was about ten bucks at Target, and I added some tiles to the bottom…now I can wait to bake until I’ve made enough things to fill the pan (and the lid means no cat fur can drift onto the clay….eeww). I feel all green because I’m not turning the oven on to bake a dozen beads…and It’s also much easier to take out of the oven, since I’m a klutz and I’ve had to chase more than a couple of hot beads around the kitchen floor.

I would definitely recommend she move over to Premo. I use Sculpey products exclusively.

It actually doesn’t matter how long you bake as long as it’s not too short. You can’t overbake Sculpey. I mean you can bake it too hot and it will burn but if the temperature is right you could bake forever if you wanted to. I often make pieces that need to be baked in sections. I’ll bake the basic figure. Then I’ll add other pieces and bake again. No problems so far.
If you calculate the time for the thinnest parts then the thin sections will be done but the bulky parts won’t.

So it’s temperature and not time that burns.

There are some tricks I’ve discovered.
I always bake on some baking paper on a ceramic tile. To keep the top of the piece from burning I tent a piece of paper over it. The paper won’t burn and it provides protection.
You can also find a way to have another tile above the piece as well. But then you have to find something high enough that won’t burn to serve as separators.
But the paper is usually enough.

My final trick has come from research and years of experimenting. Ramp baking.
Since I’ve used this technique I’ve had consistent results everytime. It takes longer but you have evenly baked pieces that are strong. Though I really wouldn’t bother using it if it were something like a bead. It’s kind of overkill. Ramp baking works best with sculptures.

Pre-heat the oven to 100c/212f bake for 30 minutes then remove.
Ramp the temperature up to 110c/230f for 20 minutes and remove.
Ramp up to 120c/248f and bake for 20 minute then remove.
And finally ramp up to 130c/266f for 30 minutes and you’re done.

Always wait until the oven is at the next temperature before the next bake. I have done this without removing between steps and it doesn’t really make a difference. But I like to take it out between steps to check on the piece.
I also have a basin of cold water ready and dunk the piece between pieces. It seems to add strength and if you’re using liquid clay it changes the way it looks.

Hope this helps.

Purists and the clay companies are adamant about not transfering the plastics in clay to any surface that will be used for food, thus most dictate using tools strictly for clay.

The oven, which can be the source of build up and producer of fumes, is treated the same, keep one oven for clay, or bake items in an aluminum packet which can be opened outdoors, wipe down the oven thoroughly after each clay bake if using for food (I assume this means oven cleaner and scrubbing all surfaces and racks), etc.

In addition, some sites caution against baking clay around small children, animals, birds or other folks with auto immune problems, etc.

I’d hit the search facility in the upper left using baking saftey as the keyword and see what you get. I’d also go to the site of the manufactor of the clay you mostly use and download their pdf’s on safety and cautions.
Googling the web for information wouldn’t be a bad idea either.

It’s like stained glass, due to the lead compounds found in the solder. The cancer rate for this hobby jumped and it was discovered that those that smoked during the glass work inhaled and ingested more lead.

For me, dedicated stupid toaster oven (yes it spikes, lol), under the kitchen exhaust fan (loud but on), objects not placed on metal, and all objects tented. I also keep the windows open, and have a few fans blowing out the windows.

Back in the condo, I baked outside the sliding glass door on the deck because we had cats. To me, one of those tables or units that hold air conditioners in place outside is ideal. Just pop that oven out there and bake away.

Hope this helps.